Car won't start

So I had been having some weird start problems lately like the car wouldn't start but would 15 minutes later and the security light coming on. A few days ago it start up then die immediately. So I went ahead and replaced the ignition switch thinking that was the problem. Now when I try to start up the car I car hear the starter spinning but the car does not want to fire up. Any suggestions for me to try?


Edit: Now when trying to start the car it does a putt putt type deal like it's trying to fire up but can't

Basics here, good spark to the plugs, fuel pressure at the rail, will it start spraying starting fluid into the intake?

tried some starter fluid. Didn't help. It sounds like it wants to start a little but isn't. Can i just pull off one of the ignition coils and start the car and see if there is spark between the posts to verify there is spark? If so, I didn't see spark this way. If this indeed should be sparking this way then it leads me to believe that the crankshaft sensor is bad (no codes have been thrown).

Edit: Scratch that....I am getting spark from the front ignition coil haven't checked the back one yet cause is so cold right now. Any suggestions for me at the moment.

If you could scan it you could check for cranking rpms to check the cps, or just check for good blue spark at the plugs, if weak or none, take the ign module to Napa or AZ for a test.

Thanks for the tips max. When I was at AZ I rented the fuel gauge and checked the psi it was at 38 when it should be 48-55 I believe. I will change the fuel filter and check it again. Sounds like it may be the fuel pump.

For what its worth I think my car only read in the upper 30s/low 40s when I checked it back in the day and it starts and runs fine....unfortunately thats about the only input i have on the matter.

I would think it would at least start with psi in the 30s, thats still quite a bit of pressure. I could understand maybe having problems at full throttle or something.

-this sounds like a security issue = search this forum on "security" and read thru those posts. Does your keyfob (auto unlock handheld device) work?

Panzer, I have changed the ignition switch and I have tried my aftermarket remote start. It will turn over but not start, the same as with the key.

I guess I missed your mention of the Security light in your first post. Does it blink or just steady on?

The Security system is easily disabled, but I believe you have to do it when the car is running. Mine has been disabled for quite some time now with no issues except for a Security light being on, but Id much rather have that than a car that wont start.

it started coming on a few days before the car wouldn't start. I would get off work, the car would start normal and I would drive a few minutes to the in laws to pick up my son. the car would start normal again when leaving but the security light would kick on after a few seconds and stay on til I got home (45 minute ride). Then would start normal the next day. I also shut the car down and started it up once when I got home and it started fine after the light had been on. Then one morning it cranked and wouldn't start. That's when I decided to replace the ign switch but I have the same problem.

Usually the PK11/111 will prevent the engine from cranking, not the issue here. The lite on needs to be checked though.

What is the model year and engine in your Intrigue? Do you have another key you can try?

I would do as panzer suggest and do a search on "security light". You should find quite a few discussions dealing with the issue.

2000 intrigue 3.5. I do have a copy of the key and tried it also with the same results

So i changed the fuel filter and by recommendation of 2 others people I know I changed the fuel pump also ($80 on ebay new). The psi increased a few but still got the same results. So I figured hey, this car has been sitting the garage for 2 weeks and won't start. So I have it towed to a dealer to look at it. Guess what??!!!!!! It started right up for them. I believe it wouldn't start for them once maybe twice over the last 4 days they have had it and they keep saying it starts fine. The mechanic did mention that it seems like it might have been trying to start Rich when it started and died on him. I will pick the car up today and hopefully won't have any more problems. But just in case....anymore ideas??? I also removed and cleaned the IACV.

goto a GM stealership with a Tech2 scanner. They will OBD2 scan your car and do a few runs on it. $80-200 -but you should find out what is wrong.

-the security light coming on is bizarre. (otherwise could be a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor -but usually you get a OBD2 code for those)

I cases like these the Tech2 ($4000 OBDII scanner) is the cheapest solution. You could always goto Autozone (call and ask first) or somewhere else for a free OBD2 scan or a cheap <$80-100 (Equus etc) scanner could be loaned

I have called all over trying to find a scanner with live date to use/rent ( I have a code reader). I guess I will have to take it to the GM dealership close by even though I don't like that place if I keep having problems. I did take it to Ford dealer garage and the mechanic said he was checking for a code. I will post back if I figure out the problem. I just can't believe it wouldnt run for me whenever I tried for the 2 weeks and it goes to a mechanic and starts right up. Thanks.

It would be very odd if there is anything new and different happening to these cars after 10yrs of data on this forum. But sometimes wires corrode or even animals chew thru things.

The Tech2 (or whatever is newer) talk to the sensors on these cars and find those bad connections that would not spit out a OBD2 code.

You mentioned the Equus scan tool in a previous. I had been thinking about getting one before you had mentioned it. Maybe the 3140. http://www.equus.com/products.php?category_id=1_10_7
Would this scan tool with the live data talk to all the sensors that you mentioned previously? If it does, maybe I will save the money from having a dealer run the diagnostics and get this and do it myself.

http://www.spx.usatoolwarehouse.com/spx-store/OTC-3629-p-OTC010202.html

The Tech2 does more than just read the OBD2 codes. -some of the newer scanners will do ABS though.

Tech2 can set fuel trim levels, transmission parameters etc.

B2958-Security system sensor data circuit high I got this code pulled from the BCM

ok..just got back from the dealer. they got the same code B2958. they check for open wires and shorts and traced back to BCM and said is would need replaced. They also said I couldn't get a used BCM and that it had to be new. Is this true? They want $240 just for the BCM and about another $100 to reprogram and install it. I will be checking around for a new cheaper replacement. I just don't think it sounds right that you can't reprogram a used BCM. I could have swore I read posts of people doing that on the intrigue.

for $25 you can try AlldataDiy.com for a year and look into changing or fixing your BCM. This computer may need to be synced with your car for the security and keyfob to work (more Tech2 work) = you dealer is most likely right and probably GM won't sell used BCMs.

-but you found out what is wrong and that should stop you from waste-ing money on unnecessary fixes.

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e6924/5

=it seems these BCMs are getting shorted (damaged) possibly by faulty ignition switches. +if you swap that BCM it does need to be reprogrammed (Tech2) or else your car will not start.

I would look into these BCM problems and make sure your ignition switch is working well -do some voltage tests etc. Maybe throw in a few more ground wires (and we thought the "grounders" were nutters).

I would get a GM Service Manual set or maybe AllDataDiy.com and do some electrical voltage tests or you could easily be in BCM hell. =constant BCM failure/replacement.

-with these cars getting older and with more corrosion + ignition problems, I would expect more BCM failures.

SO i got the new bcm setup and in the car and the light still came on. The dealership said it is probably the ignition cyclinder and the magnet is broke but it should startup everytime and it was optional to replace it. I'm dropn money left and right at that place and guess what....it still has the start problem this morning. Guess I get to take it back to the dealership to spend more.

If you''re interested, here's a link to my discussion on disabling Passlock.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=923481

After all that, I just ended up simply cutting the yellow wire and leaving it be. Ive had no problems, and my car starts every time.

The thing is, like I mentioned earlier, Im almost positive the engine has to be running for it to work by simply cutting it. The resistor thing might work without it running, because its basically "learning" a new key. But I would say that cutting/unplugging the harness without the car running will basically leave you in the same place you are now.

you can try this to reset the Security system , it might work , put the key in and turn on but dont crank, leave it for ten minutes then turn it off and then try to start it,seen this happen to a 2004 grand am when they tryed to use a key that was cut at the local hardware store. it would crank but not start

update: so they ended up tracing the wiring and found a partial wire from an old alarm system taking some of the power needed to the ignition. That wasnt cheap. Anyhow that stopped the no start problem but will still have hard starting. Today the crankshaft position sensor code tripped P0335. Finally! I was waiting for the confirmation. This should take care of this whole problem for me.