Another ignition switch problem?

Well, the Intrigue electrical gremlins have finally found me. '99 with a 3.5. Within the last 2 weeks, the cruise control, then the climate control do not work. Then, (am I am not making this up) the headlights will not work when the rear defrost is on. It starts and runs fine. I searched the forums and am well aware of the mysteries a bad ignition switch can cause. Has anyone experienced these issues?

Yes, I have. My auto headlights and climate control will not work. I've replaced the ignition switch twice. It works fine for a day or two, then intermittant for about a week and then completely dead. I have searched and searched every forum I could find and everyone says it's the ignition switch. Well I'm not about to replace the switch once a week. There's got to be something else causing this problem. So if anyone has any suggestions, I'm totally open to hearing them!

Yes, I have. My auto headlights and climate control will not work. I've replaced the ignition switch twice. It works fine for a day or two, then intermittant for about a week and then completely dead. I have searched and searched every forum I could find and everyone says it's the ignition switch. Well I'm not about to replace the switch once a week. There's got to be something else causing this problem. So if anyone has any suggestions, I'm totally open to hearing them!

Try adding some extra ground wires as was discussed earlier on this forum. I was having elec. trouble with all the guages bouncing around, car shutting off, etc. I installed a few homemade grounds and never had another elec. problem since - and that was at least 3 years and many miles ago. the only elec. problem it didn't fix was the dimming headlights, but that is an alternator problem. Can't hurt to try - possibly a cheap fix.

This is more of a preventive meaure. I always spray wd40 in the ignition switch at least once a year. This will clean and lube the switch and make sure you wipe the key with a cloth or tissue you will not believe all the crud that is attached to the key. I have been doing this on all my cars and I have never had a problem. Oh yes you should also be doing this on your door trunk lock.

As a side note a friend was having all kinds of problems with his 2000 BMW Auto trans. not going in gear etc etc. I sprayed all of the contacts at the base of his Auto shifter and that cure all the problems. It was a cheap fix vs. a new transmission all the shops were recommending.

This is more of a preventive meaure. I always spray wd40 in the ignition switch at least once a year. This will clean and lube the switch and make sure you wipe the key with a cloth or tissue you will not believe all the crud that is attached to the key. I have been doing this on all my cars and I have never had a problem. Oh yes you should also be doing this on your door trunk lock.

wouldn't spraying wd-40 in the ignition be a bad thing? petroleum product plus electronics just doesn't seem like a good combination.

just curious since i'm interested in keeping my ignition in good shape and would try this if it's definitely safe.

Any thoughts on silicone spray instead?

As Rolm suggested, the WD-40 should not cause a problem. I've done it in the past as well without issue.

here's a link to the WD-40 FAQ: http://www.wd40.com/faqs/

As you will read, it is an effective cleaner.

Try adding some extra ground wires as was discussed earlier on this forum.

Add grounds from where to where?

Also, if I go ahead and replace the ignition switch, do I replace just the cylinder w/ key or the housing or both?

Try adding some extra ground wires as was discussed earlier on this forum. I was having elec. trouble with all the guages bouncing around, car shutting off, etc. I installed a few homemade grounds and never had another elec. problem since - and that was at least 3 years and many miles ago. the only elec. problem it didn't fix was the dimming headlights, but that is an alternator problem. Can't hurt to try - possibly a cheap fix.



Like Rustybus asked, grounds from where to where? I'm also having an issue with my ignition lock cylinder. The key is so worn down I can pull it out of the ignition with the car running. Would this have anything to do with the ignition switch replacements not working for long?

From the right side strut tower to the neg. terminal and to engine block.

From the left strut tower to the upper engine mount.

From upper engine mount to MAF sensor.

All contact areas must be cleaned, sanded or wire brushed.

I used liquid elec. tape to seal connections.

From the right side strut tower to the neg. terminal and to engine block.

From the left strut tower to the upper engine mount.

From upper engine mount to MAF sensor.

All contact areas must be cleaned, sanded or wire brushed.

I used liquid elec. tape to seal connections.

Thanks for the info and pictures. Any thoughts on the ignition lock cylinder problem and whether or not it might be related?

I too would have thought that the problem was in the ignition switch but since you replaced 2 of them I figured the ground wire approach might be worth a try, as it seemed to work for me. I suppose its possible that you got bad switches but that seems like a long shot. Were they aftermarket or OEM switches?

As far as my Intrigue with 185,000 miles on it is concerned, I've never had an ignition switch problem (knock on wood). A couple times a year I spray WD-40 in there along with all the locks.

Did you check the ignition switch plug for any bad connections/loose wires? I ask this because you say the switch replacement works for a while and then goes bad again. Can you access the area behind the switch and wiggle the wires around to see if that changes the symptoms any?

I too would have thought that the problem was in the ignition switch but since you replaced 2 of them I figured the ground wire approach might be worth a try, as it seemed to work for me. I suppose its possible that you got bad switches but that seems like a long shot. Were they aftermarket or OEM switches?

As far as my Intrigue with 185,000 miles on it is concerned, I've never had an ignition switch problem (knock on wood). A couple times a year I spray WD-40 in there along with all the locks.

Did you check the ignition switch plug for any bad connections/loose wires? I ask this because you say the switch replacement works for a while and then goes bad again. Can you access the area behind the switch and wiggle the wires around to see if that changes the symptoms any?

One was a cheap replacement I got online which actually worked for about a week. The second one was an ACDelco, certified OEM replacement and that one worked for a day, go figure. We're going to have to take everything apart to replace some burned out bulbs in the dash, so we'll take a look at the connections on the ignition switch and also the climate control console itself. Thanks again for the advice, sure hope it works! :)

Definitely going to try the ground wires.

But, if that doesn't work and I replace the ignition switch, do I replace:

1) the body of the switch? (that everything plugs into)
2) the cylinder w/key?
3) or both?

From the right side strut tower to the neg. terminal and to engine block.

From the left strut tower to the upper engine mount.

From upper engine mount to MAF sensor.

All contact areas must be cleaned, sanded or wire brushed.

I used liquid elec. tape to seal connections.

Ok, installed the ground straps today and the climate control and cruise control still don't work. Any other suggestions?

follow your rear defrost wiring for maybe a short.

follow your rear defrost wiring for maybe a short.

Just curious, why the rear defrost wiring? I read on another forum that there might be a short in the wiring to the ignition switch as opposed to the ignition switch itself. Would it be the wiring from the underhood junction box to the ignition switch, from the ignition switch to the climate control console, or the wiring to the interior fuse box?

Problem solved. New Delco switch. Headlights,climate control, cruise,rear defrost all working. Hope it stays that way.

Problem solved. New Delco switch. Headlights,climate control, cruise,rear defrost all working. Hope it stays that way.

Hope it works for you. I put in a new AC Delco and everything worked for 2 days and then they all went out again. I'm still looking for a fix. :(

I replaced my switch too and ever since then my heat/ac switch will work intermittently. I found that if I tap on the knee shield or on the dash a little the controls will come back on. Everything tells me that these cars (especially the ignition switch) hate to be dicked with. I think a loose connection at the switch is the trouble but haven't had time to chase it down.

It's such a tight fit in there that I believe if you don't get the wires back to the exact position and tension that the gremlins will find and haunt you.

I finally had time to try and solve my intermittent ac/heat/fan/cruise issue after replacing my ignition switch. I found that the switch and key cylinder weren't making good contact so I wedged a piece (block) of rubber in between the ignition switch and dashboard support column just behind it. If you remove the instrument cluster you'll see a metal support just behind the ignition switch. Once I did that, it placed just enough pressure to the back of the switch that all is better now. Been running great for the last two weeks. Probably something GM should have done from the beginning.

Interesting.....I was going to call an auto locksmith and have them repair my lock cylinder because I can pull the key out while the car is running. Maybe my problem is a bad contact as well. Thanks for the info!

Just finished removing, cleaning, and re-installing the ignition switch. REMOVE THE VENT!!!! Please, for the sake of your children, do it!!! Spent over an hour messing with the switch. Took the vent off, had the switch out in about 5 minutes.

The vent has 4 tabs: 2 on the top - 2 on the bottom. These need to be depressed, then the vent slides out (with a lot of encouragement :wink:)

I also marked the "tab" on the switch!! I spent about 30 minutes looking for it :banghead:....... Used "safe" brake cleaner on the cylinder, removed the back "housing", cleaned all contacts & tabs, then put a nice coat of dielectric grease on them all.

Once it was all back together, I tested the key.....click (nothing) Left it in the 'on' position a few minutes, turned it off, waited a few more minutes - fired right up. Hope it stays that way...

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af22/jegman/Intrigue/Dash.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af22/jegman/Intrigue/VentCover.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af22/jegman/Intrigue/IgnSwtch.jpg

Ok, installed the ground straps today and the climate control and cruise control still don't work. Any other suggestions?
Does the key cylinder fit tightly in the ignition switch? Can you remove the key without turning it to "OFF"? If this is a 3.5L, check the ground at the front of the transmission. Also check the ground at the base of the steering column on the left side.

Bummer to have to chase those down.

Just finished removing, cleaning, and re-installing the ignition switch. REMOVE THE VENT!!!! Please, for the sake of your children, do it!!! Spent over an hour messing with the switch. Took the vent off, had the switch out in about 5 minutes.

Yeah, that's what I found out as well. More pics at 99intrigue.shutterfly.com/ignitionswitch

I replaced my switch too and ever since then my heat/ac switch will work intermittently. I found that if I tap on the knee shield or on the dash a little the controls will come back on. Everything tells me that these cars (especially the ignition switch) hate to be dicked with. I think a loose connection at the switch is the trouble but haven't had time to chase it down.

It's such a tight fit in there that I believe if you don't get the wires back to the exact position and tension that the gremlins will find and haunt you.just out of curiosity.... did you use an ac delco or a different aftermarket one?

I bought mine from Napa. I haven't had a problem since I placed a block of rubber between the switch and dash support. I think the key cylinder is a little worn which facilitated the use of the rubber piece. I think GM should have made that modification to begin with.

Another update:

Two days after the cleaning, the ignition switch stopped working (works/starts about 5% of the time). I am going to look online for an aftermarket switch (if one was made). Any suggestions???

Is your Security light flashing when it wont turn over? I had the same problem for a while and finally disabled the Security system entirely. Its been at least a year or two and I havent had a single problem since.

Yes it makes my Security light stay on all the time, but to me its not a big deal. Matter of fact the way I sit and and have my steering wheel aligned I cant even see it most of the time.

I realize cutting wires and such is a bit ghetto, but hey, my car starts when I turn the key, I cant say the same for some other unfortunate folks around here.

I am going to look online for an aftermarket switch (if one was made). Any suggestions???


www.RockAuto.com (http://www.RockAuto.com) OE Delco switch. Not that much more than an aftermarket part. That's what I did. problem solved.

My brother "kindly" reminded me that he works for an auto repair place. One call to his "supplier" of used parts and $50 later, my car now starts right up. If this happens again, I'll just "Fix" the Security system and call it good. Now I just need to work on my MPG problem......but that's another thread and another time......

I had a problem with my car switches too, the power door lock and in ignition I bought from one website a switch that can do multiple functions. It really works and as far as I remember it cost $50.