1998 K1500 Silverado
TVS-TVS
12-21-2009, 05:50 AM
Hi everyone,
Have a 5.7 with approx. 125,000 miles on it. Has been taken care and not driven hard. Developed lifter noise when starting first time in the day. Would quiet down after about fifteen seconds. About a week of this and it would not quiet down and had a continual misfire as if a plug wire disconnected. Pulled passenger side valve cover since this was side noise was coming from. Have two loose rocker arms, one on number two cylinder and one on number six cylinder. Been so long since working on vehicles don't recall which is intake / exhaust. On the number two cylinder it's the one closest to the front of the vehicle and on the number six cylinder it's the one closest to the firewall. Can lift pushrods up and down I would say maby 1/8 inch, if that, nuts on rockerarms are where they should be, same location as all the others. Question, I assume the lifters are bad, anyway to revive them? If I have them replaced do I replace only these two, replace all on one side or replace all lifter (both sides). Any good references available (free) on the web, explaining disassembly procedure / replacement. All help appreciated. Thank you.
Have a 5.7 with approx. 125,000 miles on it. Has been taken care and not driven hard. Developed lifter noise when starting first time in the day. Would quiet down after about fifteen seconds. About a week of this and it would not quiet down and had a continual misfire as if a plug wire disconnected. Pulled passenger side valve cover since this was side noise was coming from. Have two loose rocker arms, one on number two cylinder and one on number six cylinder. Been so long since working on vehicles don't recall which is intake / exhaust. On the number two cylinder it's the one closest to the front of the vehicle and on the number six cylinder it's the one closest to the firewall. Can lift pushrods up and down I would say maby 1/8 inch, if that, nuts on rockerarms are where they should be, same location as all the others. Question, I assume the lifters are bad, anyway to revive them? If I have them replaced do I replace only these two, replace all on one side or replace all lifter (both sides). Any good references available (free) on the web, explaining disassembly procedure / replacement. All help appreciated. Thank you.
j cAT
12-21-2009, 10:23 AM
with the engine in the proper rotation position the push rods should not move...the nut is adjusted at this position for rod to just stop movement then tighten nut 360deg or 180 deg...
these nuts can back off ...it does happen...could be damaged lifter/cam...if the lifter is bad I think you will need to open up the engine and find out what else is worn and why this one.
what oil do you use..? oil filter ?
these nuts can back off ...it does happen...could be damaged lifter/cam...if the lifter is bad I think you will need to open up the engine and find out what else is worn and why this one.
what oil do you use..? oil filter ?
TVS-TVS
12-22-2009, 09:11 AM
j cAT,
Your reply doesn't seem to answer any of the questions I put forth in my post.
Question, I assume the lifters are bad, anyway to revive them?
I put forth this question because there are many new oil additives available since when I last did engine rebuild work (1970's). How about taking a wooden dowel and placing it over the inverted boss, (the pocket the pushrod lies in), and giving it a couple light smacks with a rubber mallet. Something I inadvertently left out of my original post is that there is oil puddled in each rocker arm (including the loose ones), and when the engine is running there is an occasional click sound. Since this was before I removed the valve cover I'm wondering if the lifter is occasionally energizing and the click sound is being generated by the pushrod contacting the rocker arm pocket. First chance I get I'm going to start the engine and see if this is the case as well as seeing if any oil is being pumped.
If I have them replaced do I replace only these two, replace all on one side or replace all lifter (both sides).
You did not address the above statement.
Any good references available (free) on the web, explaining disassembly procedure / replacement.
In the old days all you had to do was disconnect the fuel line, tie a rag around it, disconnect the throttle cable, and it seemed like you were half-way done. Nowadays with all the fuel injection, pollution control, and other crap, disassembly isn't quite so simple. Accessing something like a "steps you should follow" tutorial would be nice, especially if because of finances I have to do this myself.
"tighten nut 360deg or 180 deg"
Actually, this statement is incorrect in a couple ways, it's 270 deg. on my specific engine and a torque rating would be more precise. This is debatable of course depending on the condition of the valve springs.
" these nuts can back off ...it does happen"
As I stated in my post "nuts on rockerarms are where they should be". The type of nut used on these are of the locking type so as to prevent back-off. I first tried to turn these with my fingers and then with a socket to see if they were easily turned which would mean the nut was defective. After they proved not to be I then measured from top of stud to top of nut with the butt end of a set of calipers to confirm that they were in close relationship with the others, (they had not backed off).
"Been so long since working on vehicles don't recall which is intake / exhaust. On the number two cylinder it's the one closest to the front of the vehicle and on the number six cylinder it's the one closest to the firewall."
Although not in the form of a question would have been nice to refresh my memory as to which is which.
When replying you should be specific and thorough in answering the original poster's questions / concerns. When you reply to a post only for the purpose of inflating your number of post's (4000+) you are wasting the original posters time and preventing them from getting qualified answers since their post is getting tagged as "replied too".
Your reply doesn't seem to answer any of the questions I put forth in my post.
Question, I assume the lifters are bad, anyway to revive them?
I put forth this question because there are many new oil additives available since when I last did engine rebuild work (1970's). How about taking a wooden dowel and placing it over the inverted boss, (the pocket the pushrod lies in), and giving it a couple light smacks with a rubber mallet. Something I inadvertently left out of my original post is that there is oil puddled in each rocker arm (including the loose ones), and when the engine is running there is an occasional click sound. Since this was before I removed the valve cover I'm wondering if the lifter is occasionally energizing and the click sound is being generated by the pushrod contacting the rocker arm pocket. First chance I get I'm going to start the engine and see if this is the case as well as seeing if any oil is being pumped.
If I have them replaced do I replace only these two, replace all on one side or replace all lifter (both sides).
You did not address the above statement.
Any good references available (free) on the web, explaining disassembly procedure / replacement.
In the old days all you had to do was disconnect the fuel line, tie a rag around it, disconnect the throttle cable, and it seemed like you were half-way done. Nowadays with all the fuel injection, pollution control, and other crap, disassembly isn't quite so simple. Accessing something like a "steps you should follow" tutorial would be nice, especially if because of finances I have to do this myself.
"tighten nut 360deg or 180 deg"
Actually, this statement is incorrect in a couple ways, it's 270 deg. on my specific engine and a torque rating would be more precise. This is debatable of course depending on the condition of the valve springs.
" these nuts can back off ...it does happen"
As I stated in my post "nuts on rockerarms are where they should be". The type of nut used on these are of the locking type so as to prevent back-off. I first tried to turn these with my fingers and then with a socket to see if they were easily turned which would mean the nut was defective. After they proved not to be I then measured from top of stud to top of nut with the butt end of a set of calipers to confirm that they were in close relationship with the others, (they had not backed off).
"Been so long since working on vehicles don't recall which is intake / exhaust. On the number two cylinder it's the one closest to the front of the vehicle and on the number six cylinder it's the one closest to the firewall."
Although not in the form of a question would have been nice to refresh my memory as to which is which.
When replying you should be specific and thorough in answering the original poster's questions / concerns. When you reply to a post only for the purpose of inflating your number of post's (4000+) you are wasting the original posters time and preventing them from getting qualified answers since their post is getting tagged as "replied too".
j cAT
12-22-2009, 01:40 PM
I may be wasting your time ..my OEM manual states 360 deg..some have found 180 deg...this is the hydro lifter mid point...
your problem is two cylinders, the lifters collapsed..I'm assuming more than you because I am a thousand miles away..
the nuts are not torqued, they are set..as you have found the internet there is much info on this adjustment..
this is why I asked what oil and filter do you use...?
I believe this is a oil flow issue that caused this..however what is the damage done? since the engine was operated when it was rapping.
your problem is two cylinders, the lifters collapsed..I'm assuming more than you because I am a thousand miles away..
the nuts are not torqued, they are set..as you have found the internet there is much info on this adjustment..
this is why I asked what oil and filter do you use...?
I believe this is a oil flow issue that caused this..however what is the damage done? since the engine was operated when it was rapping.
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