Chevy 6.0 litre issues

Hello, I have a 2000 chevy silverado with a 6.0 gas engine. I did a radiator swap due to a crack in the PLASTIC. While I had all of that out I swapped the water pump and thermostat along will new hoses and fittings. I also proceeded to clean the entire engine compartment to shine like new. This is where the problems begin...
So I get it all back together and it works great but after the second start my service engine soon light comes on, telling me that the #1 knock sensor has low voltage??? After i drop 500 bucks to have them BOTH replaced, it now tells me both of them are bad??? I dont know where to go from here as both of the sensors are replaced with a new harness and all, not to mention the truck runs great and has been for months with the light on. However I have noticed a loss of power, it isnt nearly as reponsive as it used to be and seems to lug around.

Does anyone know what the knock sensors do and haw I can allieviate my issue.

I have A Volant air intake with a Power Aid TBS... and I know the motor should make more power than is currently is Pls help!?:banghead:

washing the engine is not allowed ! you are not the first one to find this out. You wil need to open up intake again and make sure that the connections are sound and that you do indeed have the correct parts installed.

this intake portion and the ks needs a good amount of sealer to prevent this from occuring..

what is the dtc pulled exactly ? this may narrow down what is wrong...

Hey thanks for the response
Yeah live and learn, damn!!!! Ill find out what the code is and relay it to you.
Its jus not communicating with the knock sensors for some reason.

Hey thanks for the response
Yeah live and learn, damn!!!! Ill find out what the code is and relay it to you.
Its jus not communicating with the knock sensors for some reason.

the knock sensors put out a very low A/C voltage...its basicly a noise signal. if this level is too low it will cause the computer to throw a code..the connections must be very clean and secure..or this small signal amplitude will cause what you have...also with these componets you need get the correct replacements..the ks /computer may also need some time to adjust ..

sometimes if you have an exhaust leak at/around the exhaust manifold this will cause these sensors to retard the timing causing poor performance as well..

coolant will damage these sensors quickly..

once again with the dtc number it would be better to check that out first ,, before ripping it apart again..

Washing is fine, you just gotta go low pressure and stay outta certain areas.
The knock signal causes the computer to retard timing hence the power lose. If you pull it again, put a bead of silicone around the rubber seal edges on the top, kinda make a damn around the wells, to keep water from running in there, (it was a gm tech bulletin, not kidding). Also if you pull it again take the foam pieces out of the intake and throw em in the trash, (again see above).

If you want to wash it is not a bad idea at all to take every connector loose you can get to and pack it with di electric grease.

If you just replaced the sensors and harness I have a hard time beleiving that one washing did em in, there is a better likely hood that you got the wrong sensors or harness, or you messed up a connection to them somewhere. Keep us posted what you find.
Like jcat said dtc's tell you where to go.

GM actually has a technical service bulletin on this, that and the same thing happened to my truck, i was actually getting ready to buy the sensors and everything to do the job until the day i went to get the stuff i started the truck and drove it and the light went out on its own, needless to say i didn't replace anything. I don't have access to the information at this moment but there is a certain way to apply the silicone to the lifter valley pan to prevent this from happening again.

CODE P0327 low signal knock sensor 1


Hello all, after reading all of the replies I have learned a lot, and commend all of you for your support. I checked the truck for exhaust leaks and found a fairly significant one upon a cold 10 degree start the other day. The leak is on the manifold which was fixed months prior. As i understand these chevy are notrious for snapping manifold bolt which is a painitheass. SO ill have to fix that once again. However I do feel that you are on to something when you said the wrong sensors were put in as only one was bad before I had them replaced. Now both are not working.

Question: once I put new sensors in, is there a way to test communication between the computer to assure that they are working before i put it all back together???

Again thank you, I have been trying to figure this out for a while...
sincerely
Ray

CODE P0327 low signal knock sensor 1

CODE P0327 low signal knock sensor 1

with this code it could be the connections...since you had an exhaust leak this caused the ks to produce a larger voltage ...you will need to clear the codes then drive for a time to cycle the new output from these sensors...since you have 2 sensors they are with this code not outputing the same voltage..so this is a miss match...and also out of the normal programmed signal that is expected. poor connections/defective sensor..


with tapping these sensors will produce a low a/c voltage..also they will get damaged if handled to harshly...do not drop or hit the sensors to hard..

then make sure you seal the upper intake areas where water can enter..the original sealing material is by now too old to re-use....

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Knock Sensors (KS) produce an AC signal under all engine operating conditions. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) calculates the average voltage range of each KS signal. If the KS system is operating normally, the PCM should monitor the KS voltage varying above and below calculated average voltage. If the PCM detects a KS-1 signal or a KS-2 signal voltage within the calculated average range, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be set. DTC P0327 refers to the front knock sensor. DTC P0332 refers to the rear knock sensor.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC


DTCs P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0125, P1114, P1115, P1121, P1122, or P1258, are not set.
The minimum noise level must be learned. The minimum noise level is learned when the following conditions are met:
The ECT must be greater than 60°C (140°F) .
The engine RPM is between 475-975 for 10 seconds .
Engine speed is between 1500 RPM and 3,000 RPM .
Map is less than 49 kPa .
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) is more than 60°C (140°F) .
Throttle angle is more than 0 percent .
Engine run time is more than 10 seconds .
Ignition voltage is more than 10 volts .
CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
The PCM determines that this signal is less than the expected amount for more than 9 seconds .

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS


The control module illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC


The control module turns OFF the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
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The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.


This verifies the malfunction is present.
This test will isolate the knock sensor from the rest of the circuit.
Tapping on the engine block will simulate an engine knock.

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File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 02-06-04-023A
Date: June, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set (Replace Rear Bank Knock Sensor and RTV Area Around Sensor) Models:
1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VIN G - RPO LS1)
1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2002 Chevrolet Avalance
1999-2002 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
2002 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine
(VINs V, T, Z, N, U - RPOS LR4, LM7, L59, L09, L04) This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade and Cadillac Escalade EXT to the Models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-023 (Section 6 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a mild to severe engine ping (commonly referred to as spark knock), usually worse during acceleration and/or an illuminated MIL. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC P0332 set.
Cause
This condition may be the result of corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment.
Correction
Replace the rear bank knock sensor and build a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. Use the procedure and part number listed.
1. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/194782314.gif

Remove the wiring harness assembly from the knock sensor.

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Remove the rear bank knock sensor. 4. Install the new rear bank knock sensor. Tighten
Tighten the knock sensor to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
5. Install the wiring harness assembly to the knock sensor. http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/394782316.gif

. Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) wide and 6 mm (1/4 in) high along the outside edge of the ridge on the engine block valley cover around the rear bank knock sensor. DO NOT form a complete circle. Leave the rear section open as shown. 7. From the underside of the intake manifold, completely remove the rear intake manifold seal (foam material). 8. Install the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/494782317.gif

Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information


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Autotech234 & Jcat, thankyou for all the info and knowledge you have givin me regarding my truck. Yesterday i tracked down the knock sensors that were previously installed by a shop around where i live. (One of the knock sensors was the wrong one), I matched up the numbers for the aftermarket GM sensor and it did not match up to the number one sensor that was throwing the code. A good friend of mine just graduated from Wyotech and last night we tore it down and replaced the knock sensor with the proper one and it runs like a champ now. We also put high temp sealant/silicone around the rubber garments that keep water out,(as instructed). The light is off and the truck shifts and drives amazing.

THIS CODE IS FINALLY KILLED YEEEEEEEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

good luck with your repair..unfortunately quality of repairs is a crap shoot in today's world...when others make poor/incorrect repairs..

with the correct sensor it should have more power and better MPG.

Nice find. Glad I could help.

Oh yeah she'll two step once i get these headers on. For some reason these damn back two manifold bolts keep snappin off i have had them replaced once and they jus keep breaking??? Any Idea why?? Loose exhaust??

Oh yeah she'll two step once i get these headers on. For some reason these damn back two manifold bolts keep snappin off i have had them replaced once and they jus keep breaking??? Any Idea why?? Loose exhaust??

the bolts need the proper torque with a torque wrench...also the engine threads need cleaning when replacing...also the bolts require a sequence of securing on all the bolts..just like a head replacement..

the hanger rubber is most likely in need of replacement..after a time they allow the exhaust to move tooo much..