2001 Noise and Code P0410 YIPEE!

Hello all,

My 2001 Silverado has started showing the ever annoying P0410 code. Also, at cold start up it makes a sound that is very reminiscent of rod knock but that goes away in a minute after it warms up, is there a way that the two are related? How does one approach diagnosing/fixing the P0410 problem, as simply clearing it and going on with my life hasn't worked any of the three times I have tried it... Maybe time 4 is the charm :-)

Thanks for any help or thoughts!

Down in S-10 how to there is some info on code 410

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=564664

How many miles and what engine?
What kind of oil and oil filters are you using?

Can you knock the noise out by pulling one plug wire at a time?

Sadly I have to get my oil changed at Jiffy Lube / an oil change place, do it every 3000/ when the light comes on and tells me to. 5.3 litre engine. The noise only lasts for about 30 seconds at start up and then is gone... haven't tried pulling wires at all but I guess that could be a next step? Will have to wait until the morning when it is really cold again.

Cheap filters will give some start up knocks.
Also cold start up piston slap.
Several TSB's out there on that


Ask for a AC Delco or Wix oil fiter next change.

How many miles on it and how long has it been doing it.

Been doing it for a while, close to 8 months I would bet. 130K miles on it. I will ask for the more premium filter next time. Didn't know that an oil filter could cause this.

Hello all,

My 2001 Silverado has started showing the ever annoying P0410 code. Also, at cold start up it makes a sound that is very reminiscent of rod knock but that goes away in a minute after it warms up, is there a way that the two are related? How does one approach diagnosing/fixing the P0410 problem, as simply clearing it and going on with my life hasn't worked any of the three times I have tried it... Maybe time 4 is the charm :-)

Thanks for any help or thoughts!


Is this the v6 engine ? check with a vacuum guage for vacuum at the air solenoid. check to see if you get power to the air pump when the air pump relay is energized.

this is usually no power/loss of ground that causes pump to run..
could also be a bad solenoid valve..

air pump maxifuse 30Amp blown ..also check IGN E fuse 10Amp..

when power is at the air pump the solenoid energizes shuttling the vacuum. grounding of the 86 pin of the pump relay will energize this relay then pump must run...or jumper the relay pins 30 and 87 these are the switch contacts..

my guess is the air pump is n/g...about that time..

Been doing it for a while, close to 8 months I would bet. 130K miles on it. I will ask for the more premium filter next time. Didn't know that an oil filter could cause this.

the noise at cold start is probably lifter noise..these 5.3L engines are sensitive to deposits ...also as mentioned a good oil filter with a high quality drain back valve will reduce this noise...if at idle when cold starting it immediately makes ticking noises this would be the lifters.

my preference is the wix and the purolator PLUS oil filters.
also synthetic oil changed every 8,ooomi..so far my 2000 5.3L is still perfect at 125,ooomi.

try adding 4-5 OZ of marvel mystery oil to engine oil. if this reduces or eliminates the noise then this would be your lifters and the use of a low quality oil filter passing large sized particles getting hung up in the lifter..the lifter must hold oil ..if after a few hours the oil drains out you then get the noise..


back in 2000 I had this problem no more now...

No, this is the V8 engine, not the 6. I will check the air pump maxi fuse and IGN E, are those under hood or under dash fuses? Which pins are you talking about? I am not even really sure where this pump is located under the engine but could certainly ground out the pins if I knew where they were. Thanks!

the noise at cold start is probably lifter noise..these 5.3L engines are sensitive to deposits ...also as mentioned a good oil filter with a high quality drain back valve will reduce this noise...if at idle when cold starting it immediately makes ticking noises this would be the lifters.

my preference is the wix and the purolator PLUS oil filters.
also synthetic oil changed every 8,ooomi..so far my 2000 5.3L is still perfect at 125,ooomi.

try adding 4-5 OZ of marvel mystery oil to engine oil. if this reduces or eliminates the noise then this would be your lifters and the use of a low quality oil filter passing large sized particles getting hung up in the lifter..the lifter must hold oil ..if after a few hours the oil drains out you then get the noise..


back in 2000 I had this problem no more now...

Thanks, I will get some of the additive and see if that helps this problem also. I guess these are two completely unrelated problems that seem to just be happening at the same time!

No, this is the V8 engine, not the 6. I will check the air pump maxi fuse and IGN E, are those under hood or under dash fuses? Which pins are you talking about? I am not even really sure where this pump is located under the engine but could certainly ground out the pins if I knew where they were. Thanks!

this pump in the 5.3L was not required in my state...but it is in the v6..
this is simply to reduce pollution when first starting..,

the relay should be at the pump..check those fuses...but I have replaced the pumps...with no pump action the O2 sensor output will not change as expected this then throws this code..

where is the pump and what does it look like? the fuses are easy enough to check and I will do that, but I don't know where to find this pump?

where is the pump and what does it look like? the fuses are easy enough to check and I will do that, but I don't know where to find this pump?

in the firewall corner passengerside...under the fender fire wall support arm..

when power is at the air pump the solenoid energizes shuttling the vacuum. grounding of the 86 pin of the pump relay will energize this relay then pump must run...or jumper the relay pins 30 and 87 these are the switch contacts..

where are the pins to this relay you are talking about? Are those at the pump or are they in the engine electrical center? are pins 30 86 and 87 all part of the same relay?

where are the pins to this relay you are talking about? Are those at the pump or are they in the engine electrical center? are pins 30 86 and 87 all part of the same relay?


the relay should be mounted AT pump..
along with the other mentioned controlling componets

added the marvel mystery oil, see if the noise goes away in the next couple of days, now that I think about it I believe it started to occur after I stopped changing my oil... I hate oil change places.

Checked both fuses and they are good sadly. Start looking at the air pump and relays in the morning.

Thanks!

Edit: Pulled the hose where the pump sends air to the T (one to each header) and it was blowing strong at start up...

Checked the AIR pump, it runs at startup for a period then shuts off. Tried to manually engage it by grounding the pin and didn't have any luck with the ignition on, off and the truck running, possibly didn't connect something right, but it did run at startup. I could hear it running and touched the intake hose and felt air being sucked in. Since it isn't throwing the side specific codes, what is the next step on the AIR system diagnoses?

Murph, I am having the same problem with my 4.8 at 162000. Only when it is cold does it have the knock. Only thing different from yours is, of course, the size engine and that when I first start it, it does not knock. When the idle comes down to normal is when it starts knocking, but like you have observed, it goes away after less than a minute. Truck for the rest of the day drives normally. I commute 25 miles to a construction office, then drive it all day going to jobs and it runs great all day. I did notice for the first time this morning that the Check Engine light blinked on a few times, then went off and the knocking ceased at the same time. Tomorrow when I start the truck, the same thing will happen all over again. I am worried that this is the start of a more serious problem and maybe I can nip this in the bud. I have changed the oil faithfully following owner's manual instructions and then changing it when light goes on withing a few days. I will try the suggestion about getting a Wix oil filter next time. Any other thoughts?

Edit: Truck is 2002

PO410


CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
An Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump is used on this vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies a ground to the AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump and the AIR solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the AIR Shut-off valve when the AIR solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the AIR shut-off valve which allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds.

The PCM monitors the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) voltages to diagnose the AIR system.

During the AIR test, the PCM activates the AIR pump during closed loop operation. When the AIR system is activated, the PCM monitors the HO2S voltages and short term fuel trim values for both banks of the engine. If the AIR system is operating properly, the HO2S voltages should go low and the short term fuel trim should go high.

If the PCM determines that the HO2S voltages for both banks did not respond as expected during the tests, Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0410 sets. If only one sensor responded, the PCM sets either a DTC P1415 or P1416 to indicate on which bank the AIR system is inoperative.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC

* DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0106, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0131, P0132, P0133, P0134, P0135, P0137, P0138, P0140, P0141, P0151, P0152, P0153, P0154, P0155, P0157, P0158, P0160, P0161, P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175, P0200, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351-P0358, P0442, P0443, P0446, or P0449 are not set.
* The engine run time is more than 2 seconds .
* The engine load is less than 40 percent .
* The vehicle speed is more than 15 km/h (25 mph) .
* The engine air flow is less than 20 g/s .
* The engine speed is more than 900 RPM .
* The ignition voltage is more than 11.7 volts .
* The air fuel ratio is 13.125:1.
* The startup ECT is less than 70°C 176°F .
* The ECT is more than 70°C (158°F) , but less than 110°C (230°F) .
* The IAT is more than 2°C (230°F) .
* The fuel system is not operating in power enrichment or deceleration fuel cut-off.
* The short term fuel trim is in cells 5 or 6.

CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC

* The HO2S voltage does not go below 222 mV within 1.2 seconds when the AIR pump turns on during closed loop operation.
* Short term fuel trim does not go above a predetermined amount when the AIR pump turns on during closed loop operation.

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS

* The control module illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails.
* The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores this information in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.

CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC

* The control module turns OFF the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
* A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
* A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
* Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS

IMPORTANT: Remove any debris from the PCM connector surfaces before servicing the PCM. Inspect the PCM connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the PCM. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent water intrusion into the PCM.

* Using Freeze Frame/Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data can aid in determining how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also aid determining how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.
* For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms - Computers and Control Systems. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures

TEST DESCRIPTION

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The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.


If DTC P0418 sets, this indicates the control side of the relay is not operating. Refer to DTC P0418 for further diagnosis. Vacuum lines that are reversed on the AIR solenoid causes this DTC to set. See: P0418
The AIR MaxiFuse (R) is located in the underhood electrical center.
The AIR pump relay is located near the AIR pump.