Bad EGR??

You regulars may remember my posts earlier concerning my brother in laws 99 express van http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=950973

We have since replaced the trans in it and took it for its maiden voyage the other day in town. It died twice, not starting the second time, but we found it was not getting spark and replaced ignition module.

We then took it on a 20 mile trip up the road. All ran well until returning home when he said it wanted to stall when coming up to a stoplight. He put the trans in N and revved the engine, back into D and continued. When he got to a stop sign close to home, it stalled and did not want to restart. He got it going, made it home and while parked revved it several times and it idled poorly and died a couple times that way.

The vehicle has been off the road for approx 3 yrs. Is it possible the EGR could be sticking causing the stalling?

You regulars may remember my posts earlier concerning my brother in laws 99 express van http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=950973

We have since replaced the trans in it and took it for its maiden voyage the other day in town. It died twice, not starting the second time, but we found it was not getting spark and replaced ignition module.

We then took it on a 20 mile trip up the road. All ran well until returning home when he said it wanted to stall when coming up to a stoplight. He put the trans in N and revved the engine, back into D and continued. When he got to a stop sign close to home, it stalled and did not want to restart. He got it going, made it home and while parked revved it several times and it idled poorly and died a couple times that way.

The vehicle has been off the road for approx 3 yrs. Is it possible the EGR could be sticking causing the stalling?

To check out egr valve you will need a engine capable scanner.
Any check engine lights on?
Post back any engine codes.

If it has been setting 3 years it could have bad gas in it.
Get some fresh new gas in it.

had it scanned - no codes. It only has 1/4 tank in it, half of that has been put in in the last week. Also changed fuel filter before taking our short test run trip.

Today we started it up and after putting van in drive it died. Restarted it and went to AZ for a scan. no codes. Returned home and it felt as if van wanted to die while under slight acceleration. After parking vehicle, revved it up and was able to get van to die on two occasions.

Bad EGR valve will usually set code.

Have you checked it for carbon balls or carbon build up?
Or tryed unplugging it?

When it dies check for lose of fuel pressure or spark.

What is fuel pressure readings?

Bad EGR valve will usually set code.

When it dies check for lose of fuel pressure or spark.
What is fuel pressure readings?


Will check on these Thurs night.


Have you checked it for carbon balls or carbon build up?
Or tryed unplugging it?

Where and what does this involve?

Will check on these Thurs night.


Have you checked it for carbon balls or carbon build up?
Or tryed unplugging it?

Where and what does this involve?

The wire plug in is on top of EGR valve.
When it is ideling good unpluging will disable it and keep it from opening.
It is a test to see if the problem is EGR valve or other things.

To check for carbon or carbon ball sticking it open you will have to remove EGR valve and have a look at it.
Let us know how it goes.
And if you have any codes.
Good Luck

I did have the EGR off before we took it to AZ for a code check, it was clean and moved freely.

I got 62 psi with the key in the on position which holds for about 3-4 seconds and then it drops to 55psi. I know that is low, but is the pump at fault or the pressure regulator? If it is the regulator, where is it located?

Thanks

Chad

I did have the EGR off before we took it to AZ for a code check, it was clean and moved freely.

I got 62 psi with the key in the on position which holds for about 3-4 seconds and then it drops to 55psi. I know that is low, but is the pump at fault or the pressure regulator? If it is the regulator, where is it located?

Thanks

Chad

Any codes from code check?

62 is low or boder line on no start cold.
Specs are 60/66 lbs.

You should see around 65 key on or engine cranking.
Run a full pressure test on fuel pump and hook a gauge up and drive it on the road and watch presure after good and hot and when it is acting up.

The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

when cold it ran for about 3 minutes earlier this afternoon. When I did it and checked pressure, it was cold again and only ran about 30 seconds before dying

when cold it ran for about 3 minutes earlier this afternoon. When I did it and checked pressure, it was cold again and only ran about 30 seconds before dying

What was fuel pressure reading?

What was fuel pressure reading?

I got 62psi when pump initially cycled and 55psi after pump shut down. I started the van and it ran approx 55-56psi. It ran about 30-60 seconds and then the engine died.


I split the return line at the joint and plugged it and got 80psi when the pump initially cycled.

I got 62psi when pump initially cycled and 55psi after pump shut down. I started the van and it ran approx 55-56psi. It ran about 30-60 seconds and then the engine died.


I split the return line at the joint and plugged it and got 80psi when the pump initially cycled.

What was fuel pressure when it died?
55/56 Pressure is low.
Pressure regulator may be bad.
Will it start and run on carb cleaner?

Is it losing spark when it quits?

What was fuel pressure when it died?
55/56 Pressure is low.
Pressure regulator may be bad.
Will it start and run on carb cleaner?
Is it losing spark when it quits?



What was fuel pressure when it died? 55-56


Will it start and run on carb cleaner? havent tried, as van will restart with a few seconds of cranking.

I have now learned that the motor oil smelled of fuel when it was pulled for a rebuild.

The oil seems a bit thin and I noticed a small leak at the back of the intake today and was curious what it was from. Based on previous questions and results(listed below) I am leaning on the regulator for the cause of the issue.

Check cold start fuel pressure. 62 w/pump running / 55-56 when stopped
Check engine running fuel pressure. 55-56
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure. did not drive, as it dies
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down. no leak down of pressure noted
Block off return line and check full pressure. 80
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure. reason i am blaming regulator



Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.

All items above provide reasons not to test drive/ pressure at 55-56

Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more. this is good - I have 80
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system. no leak down detected


We are going to replace the regulator tomorrow and I will post the results.

What was fuel pressure when it died? 55-56


Will it start and run on carb cleaner? havent tried, as van will restart with a few seconds of cranking.

I have now learned that the motor oil smelled of fuel when it was pulled for a rebuild.

The oil seems a bit thin and I noticed a small leak at the back of the intake today and was curious what it was from. Based on previous questions and results(listed below) I am leaning on the regulator for the cause of the issue.

Check cold start fuel pressure. 62 w/pump running / 55-56 when stopped
Check engine running fuel pressure. 55-56
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure. did not drive, as it dies
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down. no leak down of pressure noted
Block off return line and check full pressure. 80
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure. reason i am blaming regulator



Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.

All items above provide reasons not to test drive/ pressure at 55-56

Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more. this is good - I have 80
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system. no leak down detected


We are going to replace the regulator tomorrow and I will post the results.

Good Luck

Is the start and run a start and run for 2 seconds only?

Is the start and run a start and run for 2 seconds only?


No it will run sometimes 30 seconds, sometimes up to 3 minutes or more. Do you think this is the right choice?

You are losing spark or fuel pressure.
When it quits check for lose of spark or fuel pressure.

You are losing spark or fuel pressure.
When it quits check for lose of spark or fuel pressure.


But if the fuel pressure is already low as previously mentioned due to the regulator leaking by therefore causing the stalling.

I previously had an issue with the spark after we got it running and replaced the ignition module, taking care of the problem.

But if the fuel pressure is already low as previously mentioned due to the regulator leaking by therefore causing the stalling.

I previously had an issue with the spark after we got it running and replaced the ignition module, taking care of the problem.

You need to check it at the time it quits.
If fuel pressure is low work on that end first.
And double check for lose of spark when it quits.

OK.

While messing around with things, The van will not crank at all, The fuel pump is not running, headlights will not come on. I hear the door buzzer when key is inserted, but when I turn it over to crank it is like all power ceases. I removed the battery and have had it tested, a little low on charge but a good battery. I have checked all the fuses in both boxes and they are good

Why would I be losing power to all things upon turning it to crank? Could it be a security issue? I have been trying to find other threads where same thing has happened with no luck

OK.

While messing around with things, The van will not crank at all, The fuel pump is not running, headlights will not come on. I hear the door buzzer when key is inserted, but when I turn it over to crank it is like all power ceases. I removed the battery and have had it tested, a little low on charge but a good battery. I have checked all the fuses in both boxes and they are good

Why would I be losing power to all things upon turning it to crank? Could it be a security issue? I have been trying to find other threads where same thing has happened with no luck

It is going to be hard to find or match it to someones else problem.
You have a bad connection or ground.
Check battery cabels and ends and grounds and also power feed on starter post.

It is going to be hard to find or match it to someones else problem.
You have a bad connection or ground.
Check battery cabels and ends and grounds and also power feed on starter post.


That was my thought, but doubting myself a bit.

Thanks

You also may have found you main problem.
Get the volt/ohm meter or test light and check it out.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck

Well we have the van running again. After looking high and low at things. It seems I can only pinpoint the positive cable at the battery being my issue. I did also find the relay was not engaged in the fuse panel like I thought it was, giving an answer to no fuel pump power.

I am wondering if the cables may be corroded a bit inside the sheathing. I am also concerned about the health of the starter.

While we still had a no crank condition, I thumped the starter and the van cranked over. It starts evertime we crank it over now so I think I am going to leave things as is for now and if and when we have an issue again we will keep the cables and starter in mind.

Thanks a bunch.

You are welcome.
If you had to thump the starter.
It may be on it's last leg.
Usually not many thumps before the quit all together.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck