2002 Intrigue air injection system fault

I had the whole air pump replaced along with the relay and had the whole system tested and checked for plugs,and had the electrical components tested as well. I still am having a problem with the engine light staying on and I've had all recommended repairs done. All the shop is willing to offer me is to replace it all again. However when I got the car all components were bad the pump relays and electricals, now everything is new and working(I can hear it at start up it sounds like a leaf blower) but the engine light will not stay off (code tested for P0410 each time). I do not know what else to do emissions testing is in a week this is my 2nd Intrigue and love them but cant think of anything else but need that light to stay off to pass!!! any ideas other than whats already been done.:disappoin also it is the 3.5L engine. I dont know if its a G X, G L, or G L S . Please Help

What is the code you are getting?

P0410.I looked myself and found a hose was chewed up by a mouse nest that was in there. theres 2 small hoses. one starts at the drivers side air diverter and runs to the passenger side air diverter and splices off into a sensor mounted in the back of the engine behind the silver engine cover. the 2nd hose starts at the throttle body and runs to that same sensor that was the one that was chewed up and I rerouted. The one that was chewed up is now holding pressure and air is currently running through it I checked the other lines and they are not chewed up but there is no air or pressure running through the passenger side diverter hose,I dont know if it is supposed to or not the engine light is still on but I have to wait until tomorrow to have it reset to see if that worked. I have not checked any of the larger hoses that run to the diverters and the air pump as I didnt have time to.But do plan on checking them out if the engine light does not stay off. If you know anything about the air diverters I guess the question is the passenger side air diverter supposed to have flow going to it too or not at the same time as the drivers side

It was mice under the engine cover that had chewed up a small hose going from the drivers side air diverter around to the back of the engine and goes into a sensor which the passenger side air diverter also plugs into. The shop never even bothered to take off the engine cover to look at the hoses that clearly are part of the Secondary Air Injection System, and if they had they would have seen the huge mouse nest under the cover. So I called and ripped them a new one for lying to me. They then denied the lie which was they said they checked the whole system for me the Pump, electricals, relays, hoses, and diverters. So I threw the receipt in their faces which clearly showed they charged me for the so called "diagnosing" and "testing" part of the job. Had they actually "Diagnosed" they would have found it it's not rocket science. In all just cut bad part of hose out cleaned and rerouted it, engine light is staying off, and shops steal and lie.

And after 4 days the light is back on....:shakehead... anybody have any Ideas

Have you tested the vacuum diaphrams that connect to the manifolds? Hook a vacuum pump to each one and see if you can draw a vacuum. One of mine was bad so I disconnected the vacuum line and plugged up the hose. All better now. At least until the other diaphram fails. They can be purchased from GMPartsDirect or Rock Auto. Not cheap though. I have the part numbers some where if you need.

Can you give me the part #s please, I was looking on www.gmpartsclub.com (http://www.gmpartsclub.com) and cannot find the part. I am trying to help a buddy with this issue with his car.

Yea If I could have the part numbers that would be great I'm just going to replace them. even if mine are not bad I just need this light off..

Right Valve: 12559949
Left Valve: 12559951

Remember to test for which one doesn't hold a vacuum.

After sitting in the shop and many o day's and the shop saying there was nothing wrong with my car. They miraculously found that the air diverter's were bad. The main thing I asked them to check and they didn't. $260.00 per diverter and $34.10 diagnosing fee and $110.00 labor.

And exactly 150 Miles later the engine light is back on so the air pump and the air diverters were replaced. Back to square one!!! It is holding vacuum, the hoses seem fine, however I dont feel any vacuum to the passenger side air diverter from the small tube that runs to that sensor I talked about in a previous post. I dont know if it is supposed to have any or not but id imagine it would but what would cause no vacuum to that side. O and I replaced that sensor too just to make sure it wasnt the problem. I am out of ideas. Okay so a complete recap it went in for trans issue the shop discovered the shift celunoids were bad so they replaced them. They diagnosed the engine light P0410 code and replaced the air pump, light came back on they just reset it. Light came back on again and again and they just looked at me funny and reset it. Light came back on I complained to them its evidently and issue if it keeps comming back on, they replaced the air diverters, I replaced the fuse and relay checked the IGN 1 relay wich controls some sorta sensor in that system. Lastly I replaced a sensor. Are there any other parts on this car that can spit out ONLY the P0410 code wich is secondary air injection system fault low
(some word I dont remember) Bank 1. Any other sensors,or tubes or hoses that I dont know of. PlZ let me kno...

So I paid $3200.00 for the car with 83k miles and thought I was getting a deal. Has a dented up door $1300.00 to repair and I didnt yet. Then the trans repair and air pump repair $900.00. Then the diverters $260.00/ diverter plus $110.00 labor and $34.10 Diagnosing fee. Then replaced a sensor $5.26 from a bone yard.and I'm sure I'm forgetting something but so far I'm up to $4769.36 and an engine light. All for my love of Intrigues!!!!

Hey man I wish I knew how to help you on this one. But I really dont know anything at all about that air-injection crap. I have occasional problems with mine too. I always just clear the light and keep driving, because I know its not that big of a deal.

As for your emissions testing, do you have to pass the actual smog test or do they just check to make sure your check engine light isnt on?

It seems to me like your throwing your hard-earned money down the toilet on this one, and as annoying as that light is, your car is still running well, getting you where you need to go and starting when you turn the key. So to make everything all legal-like again, I'd snag myself a cheap code reader capable of both reading and clearing codes. This is the exact one I have and it works well for me:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Car-Scanner-OBD2-CHECK-ENGINE-LIGHT-CODE-READER-OBD-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5636121914QQitemZ3702 74343188QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

But if your CEL isnt coming immediately back on, youve said its taken 4 days or 150 miles...Id make an appointment to get it inspected, then clear the code before they take a look at the car, even do it in the parking lot, whatever. Even if they do a sniffer test on it, I would think it would still pass. Your car isnt unsafe, and its not a polluter, its just got a gremlin, and you shouldnt be penalized for that. The issue isnt affecting your driveability, safety, and probably not even your MPG, in fact Id bet you wouldnt even know there was a problem if that stupid light wasnt coming on, so Id either be clearing it all the time, or just leave it on....maybe not the best advice, but its the only advice I have at the moment haha.

Take a look at the North American Aurora Club, Generation 2 of the 2001-2003 Aurora. It shares the same 3.5L as the Intrigue. Over there under generation #2 maintenance there is a FAQ for repairs with one dealing with this code on the air system.

I haven't studied it completely, but it looks like those guys have, complete with some pictures if I remember right.

I agree with LittleHoov, try your hardest to get the license plates updated and pass, but this could be one of those things that's a hard gremlin to track down. Especially if it turns out to be damaged wiring due to the transmission shift solenoids being done. That job requires droping the engine on the cradle from the bottom, and who knows what might have been bent. And you could never prove that is was their fault.

The 3.5L in the 2000 Intrigue we have doesn't have an air injection system. I believe it was part of the California Emmissions requirements, which most of the 2001's and 2002's were built so they could be sold into that market.

Keep us posted.

Carbon02

The secondary air system is really a simple system in theory:
1) Solenoid (on back of engine, under cover) energizes
2) Opens and applies manifold vacuum to two lines
3) Vacuum opens diaphragms left and right
4) Air pump injects air into exhaust manifold
5) Solenoid shuts off, drops vacuum, pump shuts off

I would check all vacuum lines for breaks and kinks. I know they are new but, disconnect right side vacuum line from diaphragm and apply vacuum to both the solenoid and vacuum line to make sure both are holding a vacuum. Then do the same procedure to the left side. Making sure you test both the line and diaphragms on both sides. One thing to also make sure is that there are hose clamps on the diaphragm connections on the manifold pipes. These can also leak air. One other thing, listen to the pump, if it’s starts out quite and then gets louder you have a vacuum leak and the pump is fighting to exhaust air.

They just do the engine code test, and unfortunately the intrigues have an up to 500 mile reset after the engine lights been cleared. Meaning it will come up unprepared for testing. At least that's why the DMV said I failed the last ones, and in wisconsin I'm not sure what the limit is for engine codes I know some states have a limit on how many codes the enigne light can be on for by year of vehicle.

Thanks I will look into some of these ideas. My 99 Intrigue doesn't have the air injection system either. This is a big pain in the bank for sure. I didn't know not having those clips could cause a leak I will definitely check those first. The pump is loud to begin with since its been replaced it sounds like one of them hand held dust busters from the 90's. Or a mini leaf blower but since my 99 doesn't have the SAIR system I cannot compare the 2 sounds. The shop it's been going to is some nobody shop my parents went to for a few years with the same issues. Repeated trips for the same issue most of which I end up fixing myself for them. So I don't know why I keep taking it to them. Really beyond myself for that one. Other than trying to get my moneys worth out of them. Thank you guys for the help I dont know where I'd be without this forum, It's a real money saver.

Okay so FINALLY the air injection system is up and running well not spitting out any codes everything has been replaced the last issue was solenoid in the back of the engine and a hose full of water. Now I got the P0420 code which is low threshold bank one. So I'm positive its an o2 sensor, most likely from what I hear by the exhaust manifold on the back of the engine. SO i just gotta find it and replace it. Anybody know where it is it'd make my search time shorter.lol..

Limited googling shows po420 to be the code for the o2 sensor located behind the catalytic converter. Can either mean a problem with the converter itself, or a bad sensor. The sensor is of course the cheaper option of the two.

I see, yea I replaced the one up closer to the engine today it seems to be running very good now I didnt think the ride could get much smoother but it did. As for the eninge light I'm positive it will come back on but I figure I'm going to work my way front to back seems the issue was closer to the front sensors and with the catalytic converter being the last thing I want to try. I know catalytic converters arent cheap normally. However at autozone today they have an exact Factory Cat. for like $85.00 and as far as I know mine is just a bolt on so hopefully I can do it myself without having to have any welding done. I know my 99 is welded on no bolts. I don't know what all changed from 99 to 02 but do know 3 yrs ago I had the whole exaughst replaced on the 99 and it costed like $1,100. After all the other repairs on the 02 I'm just trying to save a buck and hope it works.

If you do end up replacing the cat, Id look into a quality aftermarket one. Brands like Magnaflow and Walker both sell universal fit ones that should work quite well. Theyre about 60-70 dollars from places like Summit, Jegs, Ebay, etc. Just be sure you get a round one if you do, because the wide ones wont fit. The Intrigue has a pretty narrow channel under there.

I will definitely be checking into a quality aftermarket one, I had the one replaced on my 99 2 yrs ago and it's already shot.