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1957 Ferrari Testa Rossa


grayfox2014
08-11-2009, 04:19 PM
37938I decided to do this build after the 1957 Ferrari TR that went up for auction in May. It was such a stunning car that I had to have my own. Well since I don't have a something on the order of $14 million burning a hole in my pocket this is the cheapest way to get one of these prancing horses in my stable

http://www.yatzer.com/1661_1957_ferrari_250_testa_rossa_to_be_auctioned

http://www.supercars.net/Gallery?cmd=viewCarGallery&carID=525&pgID=1

http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/128/Ferrari-250-TR.html

I'm using these pages and few others as my reference material, a picture from every angle is taken of this car (even the under carriage)

Here's what I'm starting with.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models037.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models039.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models041.jpg (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=37939&stc=1&d=1250025467)

ChillyB
08-11-2009, 04:25 PM
Oh, joy! For us Testa Rossa fans there is an embarrassment of riches. I can't wait to see what you do with this one. It is, indeed, one stunningly beautiful redhead.

CrateCruncher
08-11-2009, 05:11 PM
Hey Grayfox, welcome to the forum. Your TR will fit in just fine around here. I look forward to seeing it come together.

tony126c2
08-11-2009, 05:18 PM
Welcome with this 3rd 250 TR WIP in a row. The version you built is a real stunner!

grayfox2014
08-11-2009, 09:06 PM
So how do I post Pictures on here? I would like to make it like all of the other posts on here were you dont have to click on each thumbnail.

hirofkd
08-11-2009, 10:02 PM
Upload them to a hosting site, and embed the links into your message using the "Insert Image" button in the toolbar above the "Message:" window.
Details:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=578978&postcount=3

250 Testa Rossa
08-12-2009, 12:07 AM
I just finished mine. It took me a year to work on.

grayfox2014
08-12-2009, 12:22 PM
After sitting at my desk starring at pictures of the real car and the trees full of part, I was able to spot the things I need to change.

Here the engine form the 1:1 car
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/865722.jpg

And the image from the box.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/028.jpg

The First thing I noticed was on the 1:1 engine their are two caps at the front on either side of the engine, where these are in the center of each exhaust. So these will need to be moved forward.

Next was the hard tubing that the plug wires were traveling through. since this was tapered down as it goes I figured I would use styrene rod, heat it, and pull it apart slowly. After several failed attempts of burning right through with a candle I decided to use the stove with a low flame to heat a larger area. Slowly and surely the styrene pulled to just I needed it.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/023.jpg

The next problem was I had to make another one exactly the same size. And after a few more failed attempts:banghead::banghead:.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/024.jpg

With paint and detail...After another quick look at the 1:1 engine I realized that the bolts on the cam covers were black instead of the silver I made them.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/042.jpg

After filling and sanding of seams on the engine block a coat of Tamiya flat aluminum and a a fitting of the cam covers. She looks good as a red head:grinyes:.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/030.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/044.jpg

Wanting to work on something other than the engine I switched to building the PE wheels. These came together quick and easy. The only problem i had was the two wheel halves did not want to stay lined up while the glue was drying, and I didn't want to hold it while it was drying. Simple solution was a C-clamp

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models001.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models002.jpg

And the finished product
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models003.jpg

A major improvement over the stock wheels that came with the kit...And its from the same company, why dont they just put these wheels in the kit to begin with.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models007.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models005.jpg

250 Testa Rossa
08-12-2009, 02:46 PM
What issue of Scale Auto is that ?

BVC500
08-12-2009, 03:37 PM
I just ordered this car from HLJ!

grayfox2014
08-12-2009, 06:49 PM
What issue of Scale Auto is that ?

That is the October 2008 issue, it has a great article on a box stock build of the same kit

CrateCruncher
08-14-2009, 11:26 AM
Nice start Grayfox,
The stretched sprue was a good solution. Don't be too harsh on those plastic wheels. I bet if the chrome were stripped off, airbrushed with X-11 and a tiny amount of X-19 smoke they would look pretty good. Real TR wheels are usually painted matte silver for racing.

tony126c2
08-14-2009, 11:35 AM
Real TR wheels are usually painted matte silver for racing.

I am considering painting the rims also. I heard a slightly different story about the matte silver paint. It seems that until far in the seventies the process of applying chrome made the metal brittle.???

CrateCruncher
08-14-2009, 11:49 AM
Thats right. It's called hydrogen embrittlement: The plating process causes hydrogen atoms to get lodged into the crystal lattice of the base metal preventing them from slipping. Embrittled spokes will snap like a dry twig. Materials folks discovered that by baking recently chromed parts for a while at several hundred degrees they could drive off the hydrogen returning the base metal to it's former ductile state. I didn't think anyone would care about the reason so I kept it short.

tony126c2
08-14-2009, 12:40 PM
I didn't think anyone would care about the reason so I kept it short.

Lol...at least one did :)

grayfox2014
08-14-2009, 04:45 PM
Nice start Grayfox,
The stretched sprue was a good solution. Don't be too harsh on those plastic wheels. I bet if the chrome were stripped off, airbrushed with X-11 and a tiny amount of X-19 smoke they would look pretty good. Real TR wheels are usually painted matte silver for racing.

The kit wheels aren't bad, but not great. The spokes are way to thick and too few. Im glad you pointed out the fact that on the real cars the wheels are painted. I had to run back t my reference sites to get a better look. So I will be painting them soon.
http://www.supercars.net/Pics?viewPic=y&source=carGal&carID=525&pgID=1&pID=865718

Thats right. It's called hydrogen embrittlement: The plating process causes hydrogen atoms to get lodged into the crystal lattice of the base metal preventing them from slipping. Embrittled spokes will snap like a dry twig. Materials folks discovered that by baking recently chromed parts for a while at several hundred degrees they could drive off the hydrogen returning the base metal to it's former ductile state. I didn't think anyone would care about the reason so I kept it short.

Just to expand a little and to show off. The parts that you see on old Formula cars that look chrome plated is in fact nickel plated. This nickel plating is used to protect the metal from corrosion. Chrome is in fact three layers. First is a copper, this can be smoothed down to a nice finish. Second, the nickel plating. The last plating is the chrome, this gives the lovely high shine finish and the light blues tint.

tony126c2
08-14-2009, 05:51 PM
Just to expand a little and to show off. The parts that you see on old Formula cars that look chrome plated is in fact nickel plated. This nickel plating is used to protect the metal from corrosion. Chrome is in fact three layers. First is a copper, this can be smoothed down to a nice finish. Second, the nickel plating. The last plating is the chrome, this gives the lovely high shine finish and the light blues tint.

Thanks Steve!

grayfox2014
08-19-2009, 01:46 AM
So I have made some progress since my last post. I've decided that I going to really push myself with this build and try thing I have wanted to but have been to scared in the past. What makes this build different? I think it is i have you guys to help me out when ever I get stuck. Well no back to the build. I decided to redo the wheels and paint them silver. This made a huge difference in the look. Thanks for pointing this out CrateCruncher.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models0022.jpg

In this build I have decided to "open it up" so im opening the doors, trunk, and fuel cap. The sides had to be glued in before I could take the door out because i would then have two halves of a car and then have to make sure everything is straight.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models0042.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models0062.jpg

With opening up the trunk this also means I have to build a new gas tank, cut out the floor panel, and build up the frame to be correct.

Here is the cut floor panel, I guess there is not turning back now
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models023.jpg

Starting to build the frame. Thankfully most of the frame is correct, just a few pieces need to be added
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models024.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models0072.jpg

I started to stare at my reference guides again and found some body work that needed to be fixed. About 7 different louvers or holes over the body. The easiest to build was two air ducts under the doors.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models013.jpg
Second easiest was two holes to exhaust air out the back of the body
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models011.jpg
The hardest to do is three that are up on the hood and right in front of the drivers dash.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models019.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models017.jpg

Thats all for now, Im going to start working on the hinges (a first for me) for the doors and the rear deck lid. I need to find a small spare wheel to fit in the trunk. This is going to be that hardest part to find because its a odd size, the normal tire doesn't fit well inside:banghead:. Once I find that spare I need, I can continue building the frame and start on the gas tank (scratch building, again a first). The suspension will be started soon with a spring rebuild (which once again be a first for me).

Please all comment welcome, good or bad.

CrateCruncher
08-20-2009, 08:48 AM
Wow! Very nice Steve. If your tank compartment is like my TR, you may be able to get by with just a tire for the spare. When in place the only part of mine showing is some tread and sidewall.

How did you paint your wheels. Any problem with adhesion to the metal?

tony126c2
08-20-2009, 10:22 AM
Looks very good Steve! But I look at the reference pics I should say that the tubing is a bit to thick. This can cause to little space for the gas tank which is placed on top of the tubing.

250 Testa Rossa
08-20-2009, 11:58 AM
Hmmmmmm. Let me guess... You're building it as Chassis no. 0714 TR a.k.a. The Black Hibiscus

grayfox2014
08-24-2009, 03:30 AM
Wow! Very nice Steve. If your tank compartment is like my TR, you may be able to get by with just a tire for the spare. When in place the only part of mine showing is some tread and sidewall.

How did you paint your wheels. Any problem with adhesion to the metal?

CrateCruncher, as I was looking at my reference pics trying to figure out what the supposed to build a gas tank and whats it needs to look like (see below) I found out this car does not have a spare. I guess its because this car was mostly used to SCCA races and no need to have a spare on only a 3 mile course unlike the 8 miles of LeMans. And I had no problem what so ever painting the wheels. I used Tamiya paint and sprayed them with a couple of lite coats fallowed by one wet coat.

Looks very good Steve! But I look at the reference pics I should say that the tubing is a bit to thick. This can cause to little space for the gas tank which is placed on top of the tubing.

Tony, Right after I read your comment I ran down stairs to look at the frame praying it wasnt so. Well the tubes still look right to me. I believe it must be my camera that makes them look big. It must be the great quality of this 12 year old digital camera and why half of my pictures come out blurry :banghead::banghead:.

Hmmmmmm. Let me guess... You're building it as Chassis no. 0714 TR a.k.a. The Black Hibiscus

250 Testa Rossa, Yes it is chassis 0714, I watched it roll across the auction block and decided that I had to build it.

Well now on to what I have been up to. I decided that I need to practice my airbrush and polishing techniques. So I grabbed my mouse (my computer mouse:iceslolan) So I made myself my own Mousa Rossa :biggrin::lol2:. And yes I am currently using it.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models002.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models003.jpg

And now on to the build. First off I decided to rebuild the spring to make them look a little better. I found a picture of the under carriage, and it shows only springs. No shocks....I was shocked (Im sorry I could not resist). So this made it a little harder to build now that it had to be free standing with nothing in the middle to make them straight.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models0013.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/models0043.jpg

With the springs out of the way I was able to start scratch building the tank. Im not really sure why I decided to build the tank the way I did but it wasnt to bad. I was able to use thin styrene and wrap the outside piece all the way around to forum one smooth piece.

I first cut out the sides of the tank and the middle of the tank that would wrap all the way around. Making many different sizes and shapes see which ones I wanted to use.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models004.jpg

I then used Tenax to weld the tank sides and outside together.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models005.jpg

I put some pieces of styrene rod in the middle to stiffen up the side to i could put pressure on it with out worrying.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models008.jpg

And the finished tank. I was able to trim the plastic to leave a small lip around the entire tank to simulate the real tank.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models012.jpg

I will end up putting rivets, the tie down straps, gas cap, and fuel lines on at a later time. While I was waiting for the tenax to harden up i decided to read the label...Just read it.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models007.jpg
:wtf::bricks1: Teaches me to read labels. If anyone is still want to sue this stuff you might want to pick up as much as you can because the company that makes it just went out of business (there goes micro brushes also)

The final thing I needed to do was making the brass doors and gas filler door on the trunk.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models013.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt75/grayfox2014/1models015.jpg

Next I will get the hings done so I can start painting the body and finish the suspension to make it look like im getting some where.
Thanks for watching, and once again all comments are welcome (hopefully constructive comments)

tony126c2
08-24-2009, 04:28 AM
Hi Steve,

Great progress..everything looks very good!

Well the tubes still look right to me. I believe it must be my camera that makes them look big.

That is good :) Maybe the angle distorts the image. I will give them the same size as the arch.

Ton

godfather23
08-24-2009, 07:27 AM
Great effort you put into this build. If the TR looks like your mouse it will be stunning.

Nice WIP-thread. Very entertaining and informative. Thanks.


Robert

CrateCruncher
08-24-2009, 02:12 PM
Nice progress Grayfox. If this is a race I think your in the lead position now (and had time to test your colors on your mouse!). We need to poke Ton for an update on his beast.

Regarding that Tenax label: It only affects the Californians, everyone else is immune.:iceslolan

tony126c2
08-24-2009, 05:24 PM
We need to poke Ton for an update on his beast:icon16: :icon16:

I didnīt do nothing for a couple of days now. And I am stuck on a rather vital part of my rebuild: the "hump" on the trunk. When I make a paper mould of the hump and cut it in two and put it back it does not fit anymore :banghead:

Someone is making a 3D drawing now for me which you can convert to a flat mould which can be used to cut out a piece of brass/copper. I also ordered some goldsmith tools to manipulate the metal. If I am not able to do the hump in good quality I will stop the rebuild and finish it OOB.

So have some patience with me :grinno:

Ton

250 Testa Rossa
08-24-2009, 09:45 PM
The Black Hibiscus lives !

gtziaf
08-25-2009, 06:46 PM
Great WIP-thread.
Thanks for all useful details.
Good luck until the finish...

Hobby Shop Owner
09-01-2009, 03:09 PM
Steve,

Just so you know, I think you're doing a great job on this one. BTW, the pictures of the body on the frame show the additional frame members you installed in their proper profile, and I think they look like you got them right. Now get back to the bench and send us another update.

Jeff

Motion3174
09-02-2009, 08:31 PM
Not for the squimish Ferrari TR fan...http://www.autoblog.com/gallery/ferrari-250tr-crash-at-the-monterey-historics/#6


:runaround:

250 Testa Rossa
09-02-2009, 10:07 PM
There's also a video of the crash.

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/08/19/v...l-at-laguna-s/

Hobby Shop Owner
09-03-2009, 04:12 PM
Not for the squimish Ferrari TR fan...http://www.autoblog.com/gallery/ferrari-250tr-crash-at-the-monterey-historics/#6


:runaround:


OUCH!!! That's some seriously pricey sheetmental that got bent...:banghead:

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