Another McLaren MP4/6...

Doc305

07-08-2009, 05:34 PM

godfather23

07-09-2009, 02:10 AM

There is always room for "another" MP 4/6 on here... The start iof your project looks promising. Will it be an oob-build?

Robert

Doc305

07-09-2009, 07:34 AM

Not quite sure what an 'oob-build' means Godfather.

Doc305

07-09-2009, 10:32 PM

any suggestions on how to paint the exhaust? I painted them chrome silver but I know they're not that color so any ideas?

Doc305

07-10-2009, 01:27 AM

More updates.

Brakes still missing that flat earth color along its edge. I was able to make unnoticeable that line that divides the rotors. Idk, this is one thing alotta those beautiful MP4/6s always have, that darn line, and I find it very ugly when the rest (of those well-made MP4/6s) is superbly built... that's just me..
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01108.jpg
The coolin vent. Sorry for the red dust you'll see all over. I was sanding off the paint from the F2002...
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01107.jpg
Here's how the cockpit is goin... you can see that the 'elbow pad' by the shifter is coming off a bit, i'll fix that in time
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01100.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01102.jpg
Monocoque. CF decals were applied to both 'air duct thingys' and the nose
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01099.jpg
Dont ask me the size, but It's a really thin wire, I think it's picture hanggin wire (maybe not cause its too thin) but that's what was used to replicate 'the shit that holds those electronic boxes on both sides of the car', I like the way it came out. Not sure yet if I'll paint them black (w/a marker or a sharpie) or If I should just leave them bare-metal-look...
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01098.jpg
Underside CF decals
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01097.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01096.jpg
and the most expensive part of the car... CF decals applied to the air duct, the logos and that line still have to be painted, braided lines were used on that little radiator (the little one all the way in the back, I think its a transmission cooler but not sure). No A/N fitting wil be used cause I dont have any yet and I probably wont accquire them either for this build, it's my practice build... PE screws were used on the wing (even thou not pictured, yet).
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01095.jpg

Decs0105

07-10-2009, 04:52 AM

What kind of CF decals did you use on the undertray, looks like the new S27 3D decals?

Doc305

07-10-2009, 10:52 AM

What kind of CF decals did you use on the undertray, looks like the new S27 3D decals?

No they're not S27 decals, they're Detail Master decals. They're really thin compared to the only CF decal I've used in the past (and on this build too), from Scalemotorsports. They're kinda see-thru. Let me ask you, once I applied the decals and used Micro-sol to do so, I put the undertray in my trunk overnight till the next afternoon so as to evaporate all moisture from below the decals... but a few air bubbles appeared and I dont think it would be wise to clear it like that. Should I just poke them with an x-acto, apply more Micro-sol and let it dry or is there something else you'd recommend?

John18d

07-10-2009, 11:08 PM

your carbon fiber looks good - you said it was Detail Master - do you have a part number for it ? Is it DTM-9204 ? - John :rolleyes:

Doc305

07-10-2009, 11:46 PM

your carbon fiber looks good - you said it was Detail Master - do you have a part number for it ? Is it DTM-9204 ? - John :rolleyes:

You got it! But I only used the 'not-brown-looking' one. Well, I tried the black one first and it looked nice so I just kept on using that one. Still havent used the other brown-lookin one.

mrawl

07-11-2009, 01:43 AM

I'd just try sol again first. If you do have to prick them, be careful about applying sol after that because it might cause the hole to get bigger as the decal shrinks back a bit from it. Perhaps just prick it and try to set it with water, or microset first? Let us know how you go. I hope you painted black first to make this sort of thing less visible :)

Doc305

07-11-2009, 02:07 AM

Emilssi

07-11-2009, 06:44 AM

Fantastic work!!! The CF on the floor is spot-on according to all my references - I'm definitely using it on my 641/2 and MP4/6:smile:
You might want to revise the sidepods though since according to references they are not CF Have a look:
http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww115/Emson667/f190/Boitp33_S3.jpg

I can't wait for a next updates

Doc305

07-11-2009, 01:58 PM

Emilssi, I know what you're saying but I'm not trying to make this model look like Bil's. The 2nd MP4/6 I build was like that, I believe I left it as light grey primer, and it was flat as I wanted and around the same color. But this one's going like that. I intend to sell this kit so I think it looks nice like that... idk, maybe in time, but as of now I say 'no' to the change.

935k3

07-11-2009, 09:16 PM

any suggestions on how to paint the exhaust? I painted them chrome silver but I know they're not that color so any ideas?

Testor's Jet exhaust lightly airbrushed over the chrome will give the proper color.http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/3132652563_f393dc7f0d_o.jpg

Decs0105

07-12-2009, 03:14 AM

Let me ask you, once I applied the decals and used Micro-sol to do so, I put the undertray in my trunk overnight till the next afternoon so as to evaporate all moisture from below the decals... but a few air bubbles appeared and I dont think it would be wise to clear it like that. Should I just poke them with an x-acto, apply more Micro-sol and let it dry or is there something else you'd recommend?

I'd just try sol again first. If you do have to prick them, be careful about applying sol after that because it might cause the hole to get bigger as the decal shrinks back a bit from it. Perhaps just prick it and try to set it with water, or microset first? Let us know how you go. I hope you painted black first to make this sort of thing less visible :)

That is pretty much what I would do too :smooch:.

Emilssi

07-12-2009, 07:57 PM

Doc305

07-14-2009, 10:03 PM

One update and a buncha problems...

Idky but the bottom decal didnt stick enough. Any suggestions on how to fix it?? Or just do it over? The buttons only look glossy cause I had just painted them.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01157.jpg

Part of the decal came off as I peeled the masking tape off. Was this cause I didnt wait long enough in between decal application and clear coating?? I'm not sure but luckily I have plenty of MP4/6 extras so I'll replace just that little section then clear the entire panel.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01147.jpg
I believe I did this with CA or the regular toxic Testors glue while gluing PE parts... Any ideas how to fix this? I was thinkin a wet sand with 1500, maybe 1000..
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01144.jpg

More problems...
This was the 1st time I ever airbrushed clear. Whenever I clear, I usually use it right outta the can (tamiya clear btw). I used the clear from the little jars. I didnt add any acetone to the mix, it was 100% from the jar.... and the bubbles that were below the CF decal were almost gone (I couldnt take all of the off) but now, after painting there were more bubbles... Could this be attributed to after me clearing the undertray, about ten minutes after, I put the undertray in the trunk of my car (cause my car's not moving yet and its been parked outside and I figure the heat would help the paint dry/cure quicker)? Not sure, I guess to fix this I have to do one little bubble at a time, get rid of it (somehow), maybe apply another little piece of decal then put a drop of clear in each spot? Any suggestions? I REALLY dont want to have to strip the whole thing...
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01163.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01161.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01160.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01162.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01159.jpg

WOW those last 4pics look horrible!!!

Anyways, more problems.....

Here, I have no idea how I got silver there.... but it'll come off, it's not that bad. Any suggestions on what's the best way to take that off?
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01151.jpg

And now a few problems I noticed after the paint dried.. fookin bubbles. Can any of you more experieced builders tell what I'm doing wrong... The body was painted with Tamiya cans, from the can. I figure to fix this I must 1st sand those ares (pictured below) then paint again red/white where appropriate right?
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01164.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01165.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01166.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01172.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01170.jpg

builder77

07-15-2009, 06:39 AM

To get the silver off use some polish and it will just rub off.
Dont press to hard or you will take the orange with it.
The other paint issues you should be able to sand out with some very fine paper and repaint to cover those areas.
Tamiya paint does this all the time. Try and limit using it directly from the can or avoid heavy coats of paint all at one time.
I have found laying down several thin layers prevents this...sometimes.
Good luck.
Chris

KevHw

07-15-2009, 08:06 AM

Bubbles usually form from applying too much of a hot paint. Spray lighter coats. Like builder77 says, sand with a fine paper then re-paint. Warming up your cans should help too so that the thinner evaporates faster.
For the CA problem...sand then re-paint. I'd try using micro-gloss or any other very fine polish to get that silver off the wing.
What did you use for the seatbelts? The texture and stitching look very realistic.

Doc305

07-15-2009, 11:21 AM

Thanks builder77, I'll try that.

KevHw, I totally forgot about heating the cans w/ warm water... but once I re-paint, I'll do it in lighter coats. As for the seat belts, they're the stock ones. I used CA to keep it in the position I wanted it in. The shoulder pads, according to the instructions are supposed to be cut 6mm wide but in previous builds of this same car, I found 6mm to be too wide so these were cut just a bit over the width of the 'black part' of the seat belts. Once everything dried, a quick pass with a Bic lighter to burn off all little loose ends was done.

As for Micro-Gloss, I've only used Micro-Sol, and I find that product good. Are all the Microscale products good? They make quite alotta diff things... And btw, their Micro-Sol smells like plain Windex...

Doc305

07-21-2009, 01:45 PM

Emilssi

07-22-2009, 08:55 PM

Well it seems like this build will take longer than expected, but hey, isnt that how all builds go...

So the CF decals on the undertray look like shit and I decided to strip it and do it over. Perhaps this time using smaller pieces of CF versus this attempt (using the largest possible pieces, i used only 2 pieces on the top surface and 3strips per side on the vertical sections).

I also acquired these
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01187.jpg

It's my 1st time ever using these. I bought both types cause idk which to use. I think set A is best suited for the MP4/6 but let me know if you have used these before.

Hi mate, I'm using these connectors on my 641/2 now and I have to say that they are great. Looking at the references I can tell that you will be using both types on your McLaren (especially set B)
PS Sorry to see you've had these recent troubles but don't worry it's just a minor setback - I know how you feel cause I've just had a major disaster myself while painting the exhausts but its all fixed now.
Good Luck:wink:

Doc305

07-30-2009, 07:32 AM

I know quite some time has passed since the last update but I havent done much... just been lazy.

IDK if you remember but I had a lil problem with the front wing side thing (see pics)
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01147.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01144.jpg

I was able to take off the silver paint (2nd pic) and was able to add a lil piece of the missing decal (1st pic). Prior to fucking these parts up I had polished them, should I pass a 1500, 2000, or smaller grit on the entire surface of those two parts and then clear? Or should I just add clear on top of the polished surface? I dont think it would stick right if I did it the 2nd method. Let me know what you guys think.

Oh, Emilssi, those connectors aren't fun to work with. This is my first time using them and it's been a pain so far. You mentioned I would be using more of the Set B but I think you said that because you're thinking I will add ALL wires to the car. I'm not, I'm just replacing tamiyas wires and connectors with the ones from Sakatsu. I'm not gonna go crazy with the wires on the valve covers and all. I'm selling this car so whoever buys it can add that if he or she wishes to.

As for the bubbles I had on the undertray, well I think the problem was attributed to me not making a smoothe surface for the decal to stick to. I think all I had done was apply black primer to it then I applied decals. Well to fix it I was able to lift the decal with the xacto and scapped most of it off then followed this by;

*sanding with 320grit, then 400, then 600,
*one light coat of primer, 3 light coats of gloss black,
*waited 3 days then 1500 grit, then 2000 grit, compound, glaze. Now it was super smoothe and shiny. No wax as I want the decal to stick.

This time (applying the decals) I used larger pieces of CF decal. Previously it took me 3 pieces per side to cover the 'top' surface, now I did it with 2 (one of which is very small). This time it worked out perfect. I just need to finish the vertical sides and clear.

Here's how it looks so far... Right: polished finish. Left: after sanding.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01236.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01238.jpg

Decals applied
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC01241.jpg

Doc305

08-04-2009, 06:29 PM

two things...

#1, I lost my camera or it got stolen so..... no pics for a while, unless you guys really want me to post pics taken with my phone, which are crappy quality.

#2, I cant find it anywhere so I must ask you, more knowledgeable guys... What are the dimensions of a 1991 F1 starting grid? I'm not sure if they've changed so I specify a 1991 starting grid size. I plan on putting this car on a wooden base, like if it were on the starting grid, pole position, and not much... maybe a pit lane wall, maybe even the start/finish line... but that's all 'easy', finding out the exact size of it so I can downsize it 12times is the tricky part. I need the thickness of the line, how long it is (outside lenght), and the outside lenght of the sides. Please let me know. thanks and I'll post some more updates as soon as I get a better camera...

racer93

08-04-2009, 06:40 PM

I know quite some time has passed since the last update but I havent done much... just been lazy.

IDK if you remember but I had a lil problem with the front wing side thing (see pics)As for the bubbles I had on the undertray, well I think the problem was attributed to me not making a smoothe surface for the decal to stick to. I think all I had done was apply black primer to it then I applied decals. Well to fix it I was able to lift the decal with the xacto and scapped most of it off then followed this by;

As per SMS's website, you want to use semi-gloss paint under CF decals so the decals have something to "grab" onto. Just a thought.

You might also want to try plasti-dip, which coats tool handles. It makes convincing electrical connection "covers", as shown on the Top Studio package. A cheap and easier alternative to shrink tubing.

Daniel

Doc305

08-04-2009, 08:27 PM

racer93, I'm still building the wires/cnnectors. As for the paint under the cf decals, I used gloss black and polished it to a shine then applied.... Thanks for the advice thou.

Oh, just let everyone know, I'm not wiring the whole car, well at least I dont plan to, I'm just replacing the Tamiya ones. I might do a few extras...

Doc305

09-18-2009, 04:17 AM

I've been so stressed with my real build that I havent done anything lately. Here are a few pics of what I did (probably) in the past month or so...

Those straps on the electronics boxes are gone. I replaced them with thin metal wire already, even thou not pictured. I'm still trying to find a good way for me to secure the wires in place. LMK if you guys got any ideas..
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC06785.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC06786.jpg

I painted the radiators flat aluminum then masked the inside part and painted the outside (or radiator housing or w/e its called) with chrome. I like it. The difference between the two tones are very noticeable. For the pipes flowing coolant in and outta the radiator, I'm thinkin (now, today) of using solder tubbin but idky. I gotta get some to see how it'll look.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC06787.jpg

I'll try to do some work tomorrow. I'm so close to finishing but everytime I look at the desk (where i build) I tell myself I dont wanna spend hours sitting down doing it, so I never do it, cause I know the way I am, I can just sit for ten minutes and that's it. I get on a roll and keep on for hours but since lately I havent been willing to do so, well, I havent accomplished much....

Doc305

09-19-2009, 12:58 AM

Here you can see the ground clearance is perfect, no rubbing at all. All wheels rotate freely, front wheels turn, rear wheels rotate with the axles, there is a bit of brake rub but then again if I sand them too much (and sand the pads) the gap between them would be too large and unrealistic. I'll show it later...
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC06967.jpg

Next, I'm gluing the front wing back again. I took it apart cause I was gonna CF the insides and the bottom but not worth doing it anymore since I'm selling it. You can also see the radiator exit thing is missing. It's painted already but I still have to sand it a bit so when putting on the cowl, those 'exits' dont scratch the radiators. You can also see that I put on the wrong decal on the rear wing. That decal is supposed to be behind the wing (and the one back there is supposed to be up front). But I left it like that cause I still like how it looks. Oh, the bottom part of the top McLaren Red part of the rear wing is CF and so is the entire bottom one (the one that runs across). I like how it looks. I'll try to post better pics capturing this once I'm closer to completion. The camera and mirrors are ready, just awaiting the cowl to be polished so I can put them on. You can also note that those holes where screws go in to secure the cowl (the holes that were right next to the cockpit, in-line with the mirror mounting holes) are gone!
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC06966.jpg

Well if you read back, you'll notice I had some bubbles on the red parts of the cowl. I re-did them and they came out better than last time but still not good enough. Now you wonder why is it that I have the decals on then? IDK, just being impatient and wanting to see it come to life sooner... I put them all on and sprayed a very light coat of clear over them to protect them and soon (when I can afford and have a ride to go get it) I'll go get another TS-36 cause I ran outta the 2nd car already. I obviously didnt polish it yet cause I still need to mask the white, paint the red, let cure, then clear it all, then finally polish it. I know the gap between the front wing and cowl doesnt look right but it's not even screwd in yet so...
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC06968.jpg

The tires most likely will stay w/o the decals cause on my last build I fucked up so much on the decals that I had to use the ones for this car and I'm not about to pay over $25 for a sheet of decals. If any of you wanna hook me up (or even better, let me 'rent' your stencil) I'd very much appreciate it. Well that's that for tonight.

Decs0105

09-20-2009, 10:15 AM

That looks great, it is always nice to see this livery :cool:

Doc305

09-20-2009, 03:34 PM

Thanks Decs0105, the only thing I'm just a tiny bit upset was the concentration I lacked when doing the rear wing. I only noticed a few days later and since it has CF in a few spots and those decals that I dont have any extra of, I choose to leave it that way. People who dont know much about this car wouldnt even notice the mistake. I'll post a pic of the back of the wing soon.

Doc305

09-22-2009, 10:51 PM

Here's the throttle linkage, I cut the stock thing that goes in the middle and it went from being a 1-piece plastic to a 4-piece plastic/metal wire component. IMO it came out nice.... If only it really moved now...
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC07009.jpg

Well I wont point out the imperfections here, the trained eye can tell... But from a few feet away it looks awesome.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC07010.jpg

Here's the rear wing with that center piece CF-ed.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC07013.jpg

The decal that was supposed to be in the front... To me it still looks beautifull nonetheless, incorrect but well done and did I mention still beautiful..
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC07014.jpg

The cockpit. I think I already had posted pics of this... but oh well:
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC07016.jpg

And the little box with very few parts remaining, some are already done (like mirrors, camera, thing that goes underneath the car - by the exhaust) and the radiator parts most likely will be scratchmade. I'll use the 'little box' but the pipes will definitely be replaced. I'm thinkin of solder wire, then all I gotta make up are the hose clamp (or buy'em, which I wont). Oh, parts of the front susp are here too.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/Docta2002/DSC07017.jpg

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