I had a problem tonight that has me bewildered. Iwas heading to the store and all the sudden the engine lost power like it stalled then a few seconds later picked back up. Then as I left the store and went to pull out into the intersection it stalled. I put it in neutral and let it roll back then all the sudden the engine picked back up on its own. Any ideas ? My friend thinks its the tork converter locking up. But I don't see how that explains what happened in the intersection .

Does this sound like the ignition switch or maybe the coil ?

Ok, this morning on the way to work I noticed a little stumble when first starting the car. I got gas at a store, started it up and the same little hesitation at start up. While going down the road a few miles it died. It would not restart. After a bit I got out and opened the hood. I pulled the connector off of the coil and put it back on. It started up and no problem the rest of the day until I got home and no little hesitation. Sitting in the driveway I restarted the car and it ran about 20 seconds and stalled. I restarted it and it stalled then freaked me out. After this stall all the sudden it started up again on its own. It was stalled about 5 seconds or so when all the sudden it started up ! I had the key still in the on position. Then after a bit it stalled again. This time it wouldn't restart. I got out and did the same thing I did this morning. I pulled the connector off the coil and put it back on. It started right up and stayed running as it did this morning . I had a spare new coil and decided to put it on. It started right up and stayed running. So far it hasn't repeated the stalling. Could a bad coil cause these symptoms ?

Thanks

I guess in all the excitement I forgot to state it is a 99 Bravada . No codes were given.

Your friend is probably right. If it's an automatic transmission you can not completely stall out the engine and have it restart while moving unless the torque converter is locking up, otherwise there would would be no motion transferred to the engine to crank it up again.

I was wondering why this was placed in the Blazer forum ? It's a Bravada .

As far as the converter I am puzzled as I have read several others who have experienced the stall and recovery while driving and it turned out to be the ignition switch .

If it's an automatic transmission you can not completely stall out the engine and have it restart while moving unless the torque converter is locking upIt did the same thing in park in my driveway. It stalled and fired back up about 5 seconds or so later on its own. I never experienced that before. I just went down and started it and it ran fine and quit again after about 1 minute . This time it didn't start back up on its own .

I called the GM dealership and spoke with the service department and he sated it sounded like a possible ignition problem but the problem he said is if it doesn't do it with them they can't diagnose it. Was just curious as to whether the symptoms sounded familiar to anyone and if the was anything I could do to check it on my own. Like I said it doesn't throw a code .

Thanks

Would the torque converter cause the above problems such as stalling at idle and no start and stalling while driving ? And restarting itself in park and neutral after stalling ? I'm just bewildered with this. It doesn't do it all the time and the garage stated unless it does it with them they can't help me.

UPDATE

I pulled the coil plug wire to see any spark against a ground and nothing. Tried 2 coils and no fire. I took the connector off the coil and checked voltage. The pink wire had 12v the yellow or white and black wire during cranking had pulses . The pink wire when cranking drops to around 10.30v the white/black wire while cranking was around .22v . My son said it read .60 at one point.

Just went out this evening and it started right up like nothing was wrong and stayed running until I finally turned it off .:rolleyes: No spark this morning but ran fine tonight .

I found this and hope that is the problem. The symptoms are the same .

My 1997 oldsmobile bravada had a problem where the car would "die" anytime and then automatically turn back on while driving on the highway. The same would happen during city driving but I would have to re-start the car. A very dangerous occurrence if I was in the middle of making a turn when the car would suddenly stop. It turned out to be the ignition switch that needed replacement and the dealer said that this was becoming a very common problem with this kind of automobile (bravada, blazer, jimmy).

I am to pick up the ignition switch today and try to tackle the job.

I just bought the switch and a fuel pressure gauge. I put the gauge on and it pumps around 64 and stays around 60 when not cranking . The engine started and stalled again after a few seconds and would not restart but the fuel pump was still working . So I disconnected the battery and will wait for 30min to pass and disconnect the airbag fuse and connector. I read the airbag has a capacitor that needs to drain and 30min is recommended. Then I will tackle the switch.:crying::)

Ok, can anyone tell me how to disconnect the emergency brake handle so I can totally remove the lower trim ? Also, how do I get the collar off the column ? The tilt handle won't allow me to take the halves off.

Thanks

Got it all done. Still does not start. There is voltage to the coil on both wires but nothing coming out of the coil. Does anyone have any ideas ? It would sure be appreciated.

Just put a new coil on and no change. I have 12v from the ignition pink wire. I also have pulsing voltage from the wh/blk wire. Both wires are connected to the coil. I am presuming the white/black wire is the signal from the ignition module. I am stumped if all that is getting to the coil why there is no fire from the coil .

Well, I tried an ignition module. Now for the crankshaft sensor. Out of 160+ views and 1 response I thought someone could give some input. I'll just keep trying and hopefully get it. Hopefully someone else can use this thread if they run into this problem.

Tried the Crank sensor and nothing changed. I have a question. Does the airbag have to be re-enabled before it will start ?

Problem solved.

It was a bad connection in a wire to the crank sensor.