93 Saturn SL2 stalling more and more

I haven't been able to have any of my mechanic friends(and I have alot) figure out what is wrong with my car, and I can't really afford to take it into a shop and have them start throwing parts at it. Here is my issue if anyone can help.

First, for about 10 months now, getting progressively worse, after about a mile of driving, when I would put in the clutch to slow down for a stop, and then try to hit the gas after that, the tac would bottom out or stall. I had some issues restarting it, but after that the problem would go away for the rest of the day.

I had my license plate revoked(had a lapse in insurance and they show no mercy in this state), so my car sat for 30 days. When I started driving it again, it did this, stalled, and I could not get it started again. I had someone tell me it was the crank position sensor, so I replaced that, but when I was testing it to start it again, another mechanic told me to hold the gas down to choke it out, so I don't really know if that was the issue or not, because everytime it stalls now, I floor it while trying to start it. As a side note, this mechanic also told me my car was running very rich.

A bigger issue presented itself then, and has been doing this for weeks, getting worse and worse(I'm wondering if I screwed up something installing my CPS). Anytime I push the clutch in(JUST the clutch) after being at 2-3k RPM driving around, the tac goes to about 200rpm, or stalls. This can happen 3-4 times in 15 minutes, and it doesn't go away like the other issue did. I did a fuel injector cleaning(one bottle in the gastank, one bottle in break booster) and it seems to have fixed the ORIGINAL problem, but not this new, worse problem. Now, yesterday, my low coolant light came on, and it isn't low. I'm at my wits end with this car.

93 Saturn SL2, 180,000miles, Manual

Thanks in advance if anyone takes the time to read through this book :)

The first thing we think of when folks have the problem you describe, is that the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor has gone bad. (ECTS) If its the original sensor - its plastic and it cracks. Then the engine thinks the coolant is much colder than it really is - and it will run rich.
There are two sensors on the side of the engine head toward the battery. They are hard to spot, until you take off the large rubber duct that runs from the air filter up to the throttle body. One of them has a single wire going to it. That one is for the gauge on the dashbaord. The other one has two wires going to it - and thats the one that tells the PCM how hot the coolant is. Its also one of the most commonly replaced parts on Saturns, for good reason. You squeeze the ears on the connector to get it to pull off. It can also be a dirty/corroded connector causing the problem. So if the inside of the connector looks cruddy, replace it also.
This thing can be removed with the coolant in the engine. With the engine cooled down, very little coolant will come out while you unscrew the old one and put in the new one. I think it takes a 13mm deep socket to unscrew it. The sensor shouldnt be too expensive, like $20 to $30 dollars.
Good Luck.

If that doesnt help, let us know, and we can guess some more.

First off, great instructions on finding and removing those sensors. Made it a whole lot easier, although they did leak a lot of coolant onto the ground while they were out :). Both of them look good..no gunk or corrosion on the parts that sit internally, although the plugs/wires are gunked up(on the connectors, not the sensors themselves). The warning light one was brass looking and clean, and the other sensor was a brownish plastic with only a few hairline scratches on top. I'll still replace it if I can find it cheap enough, being that it is an easy job.

Also clean the connector for the ECT that has two wires. I used a spray can of carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush to do it.
That plastic ECT is the one the car was built with. The replacements should all have brass bodies.

The low coolant light comes on in my daughter's 98 Saturn, by the coolant over temp light blinking, instead of being on steady. She just checks to ensure the coolant level is more than halfway up the side of the plastic container (when the engine is cold), and she ignores the light. But on her car, I think that light can also be an indicator of transmission fluid being too hot. That doesnt seem to be the case either. Soon I will put on a new filter for the transmission, and change its fluid. The Saturn trannys use a spin-on filter, and changing the filter and fluid every 30,000 miles is considered a very good idea.

On lots of cars with fuel injection, the way to un-flood a flooded engine, is to hold the gas pedal down on the floor while starting. This limits the amount of fuel that gets injected. But for sure, you shouldnt have to do that. It should start just by turning the key, without your foot being on the gas at all.

Also clean the connector for the ECT that has two wires. I used a spray can of carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush to do it.
+1
The low coolant light comes on in my daughter's 98 Saturn, by the coolant over temp light blinking, instead of being on steady. She just checks to ensure the coolant level is more than halfway up the side of the plastic container (when the engine is cold), and she ignores the light.

Fluid level sensor is stuck. Remove the reservoir and clean it with soap and water.

On lots of cars with fuel injection, the way to un-flood a flooded engine, is to hold the gas pedal down on the floor while starting. This limits the amount of fuel that gets injected. But for sure, you shouldnt have to do that. It should start just by turning the key, without your foot being on the gas at all.

Holding the pedal down at start up at WOT shut OFF the injectors. This as stated burns excess fuel, clearing the flood :)

Changed out the ECT sensor..still having the same problem. I noticed, though, that it is alot less if the AC isn't on(I generally run with it on always because my cooling fan doesn't automatically switch on anymore).

The low coolant light went away last night after I cleaned off the plugs for the sensors.

Changed out the ECT sensor..still having the same problem. I noticed, though, that it is alot less if the AC isn't on(I generally run with it on always because my cooling fan doesn't automatically switch on anymore).

The low coolant light went away last night after I cleaned off the plugs for the sensors.

The fan should turn on if the ECTS is working correctly.

Clean your throttle body. Remove it to clean it.

During a high idle, turn the car off then on. If the car returns to a normal idle, the TPS is the first suspect. Do this AFTER you clean your throttle body.

Update: I may have jumped the gun a little bit, because a day after I replaced the ECT Sensor...I can't be completely sure but my car seems to be running alot better. Both problems are gone..but I'm also running it without the AC on anymore(just listing possible variables).

The only problems that seem to still persist in this set of circumstances are that my idle speed drops from 1200 to 1000 after a few minutes of driving(no more huge dips though) and stays constant at that RPM, and sometimes it feels like the car won't accelerate as well, like I have the parking brake on. Could this be due to the fact that I still have a half a tank of gas mixed with B12 fuel cleaner? Or is it something worse like everyone was always suggesting, a bad O2 sensor/clogged cat/other random air flow issues.

To RC1488..what part is the throttle body, and how do I clean it?(chemicals, etc)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

The only problems that seem to still persist in this set of circumstances are that my idle speed drops from 1200 to 1000 after a few minutes of driving(no more huge dips though) and stays constant at that RPM, and sometimes it feels like the car won't accelerate as well, like I have the parking brake on. Could this be due to the fact that I still have a half a tank of gas mixed with B12 fuel cleaner? Or is it something worse like everyone was always suggesting, a bad O2 sensor/clogged cat/other random air flow issues.

To RC1488..what part is the throttle body, and how do I clean it?(chemicals, etc)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

Normal RPM is 800-1000 in park at idle at normal operatine temps. So yours is fine.

Throttle body cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApNTQs6GzcY
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=5F750968C66173C3&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&v=qT7yA2TL4lk
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=5F750968C66173C3&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&v=u3dC0ZLvpt8