Our Community is 940,000 Strong. Join Us.


Jordan 191


Pages : [1] 2 3 4 5 6

jaykay640
05-21-2009, 06:11 PM
Hi everybody!

This is the start for another WIP. There’s still some left to finish but after a Tameo McLaren MP 4/15 I built recently Iwas somewhat fed up with 1:43 and white metal in particular so I decided to again have a go at some plastic for a change.
As the title says it this one’s about the Jordan 191, and who would have guessed….it’s gonna be the Spa-Version :-)

I don’t have to tell you anything about the kit contents or parts fit I think. To turn it into Schumacher’s first F1-ride there’s more to do than just add the correct decals though.
Most notably the front wing flaps have to be smaller, the rear wing gets some gurneyflaps and other bits, in the rear wing support there’s an extra cooler ( for gearbox oil I think ), the rear brakes get additional “periscope” style air ducts and there’s an extra round liquid tank ( for whatever…) at the front of the left cylinder bank.

For reference i’m of course using the Perfect File, plus the F1Modeling Schumacher Special and some additional pictures i found online and one important one for the front damper from Gurneyflap :-)
My plan is to do all these modifications and add a pile of details and corrections along the way. We’ll see how long it takes until I rather get back to 1:43rd :-)

For a change I started not by cutting up the kit pieces into even smaller bits but by actually putting some together with a bit of "racer’s tape" ( something that’s impossible with a Tameo…)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/01chassissketchglued.jpg


On my ongoing projects i learned the hard way that it can be quite tricky to assemble the suspension and set the model up right, once the “Tamiya-path” has been left and the suspension bits cut up. So I decided for this project to build a jig.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/02chassisjig.jpg

It’s made from MDF and metal pins and will hopefully help me during assembly to get the uprights to sit where they belong :-)


The actual build process started with the cockpit. I glued the monocoque halves and test fit the cockpit tub and seat.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/03seatandcockpitissues.jpg


The seat ( already stripped of the moulded in belts ) turned out to be seriously asymmetric

There needs to be some space for the gear shift linkage on the right side but Tamiya was really overly generous with it :-) On top of that the rather thick cockpit side walls were too low, so I replaced them with new ones made from 0.3mm styrene sheet



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/04cockpittubreworked.jpg


The seat was then also modified according to the reference pictures.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/05seatreshaped.jpg


Now it fits the cockpit nicely:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/06testfittingseat.jpg



I also started work on the monocoque. I cut off the roll bar ( this will return as an extra piece ), opened the holes for front damper and the fuel filler at the rear and closed some of the smaller holes for locator pins that I won’t need. I also reshaped the area around the head rest a bit with putty. All surfaces were sanded to get them straight, especially around the edges.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/07chassistubsandedandholesfilled.jpg


In the next picture the modified cockpit sits in the monocoque. I had to thin the sidewalls below the cockpit edges to make room for the higher cockpit walls and I added an indentation for the gear shifter ( or rather the driver’s shifting hand ).



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/08cockpittestfit.jpg


That’s it for the start. There’s more to follow soon. I have to say that modifying and scratch building parts like this is what I like most about modeling. Much more than finishing paintjobs and such…. Let’s see how long that lasts :-)

jano11
05-21-2009, 06:28 PM
Wonderful start! :)
I like all the changes you are making. I'll follow your work closely as my main modeling project is building all the F1 cars M. Schumacher raced with.

JimboCO
05-21-2009, 06:42 PM
Great stuff! I'm working on this one too so I'll be following your build closely.

klutz_100
05-22-2009, 01:26 AM
Your subjects, eye for detail and building skills are seriously badass! :thumbsup: :D

mrawl
05-22-2009, 01:35 AM
Excellent!!! This is the type of modeling I love too. The jig is a great idea.

billypee
05-23-2009, 01:39 PM
Great start on this JayKay. I'm sure this will turn into the definitive Jordan 191 WIP. Can't wait to see the progress.

jaykay640
05-25-2009, 02:59 PM
Hey guys, here’s some more progress already.

The undertray was cleaned up. I filled the pin marks and sanded all surfaces. In the process the diffuser was thinned and I “sharpened” the edges at the rear left and right of the diffuser.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/09undertraysandedandedgessharpened.jpg


Then I scratchbuilt new sidepod structures from 0.3mm styrene as the Tamiya ones were inevitably thick and the moulded in electronic boxes couldn’t stay anyway.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/10kitandscratchbuiltsidepods.jpg


Here you see them placed on the monocoque sides.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/11sidepodsandlowerbodyworkpieces.jpg


Also visible are the lower bodywork elements. I sanded them on the outside and then thinned them to about 0,7mm material thickness from the inside where it’s visible.

Next I went for the nose area again. The kit comes with a separate lid for the front damper but nothing underneath. Scratchbuilding something there is tricky because pictures of the area are as rare as henn’s teeth. From what I have got, I figured out a layout and milled a block of renshape accordingly.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/12milledrenshapeforfrontdamperhousi.jpg


In the next picture you can see it after some more work. In front is the lid that I sanded thin from the inside to about 0,5mm. To match the upper surface of the milled part perfectly to the lid I put some tape on it’s underside, put some polyester putty on the renshape piece and then carefully pressed the lid on the wet putty. After a bit of curing I removed the lid ( no problem because of the tape ) and then cut and sanded off the excess putty.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/13frontdamperhousingsurfacematchedt.jpg


It will need more work but as you can see it fits quite nicely already.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/14frontdamperhousinginplace.jpg


That’s it for now. The next update will take some longer as I’m heading towards the trickier bits. Also I’m jumping around between pieces and I will wait for areas to sufficiently progress so this WIP doesn’t get too confusing :-)
Thanks for following!

gasdriverca
05-25-2009, 03:04 PM
Very interesting but I like it.

TRBJ
05-25-2009, 04:24 PM
WTF!!! im definitely gonna follow your build!! very clean!!!

klutz_100
05-25-2009, 11:05 PM
I will wait for areas to sufficiently progress so this WIP doesn’t get too confusing :-)
I'm OK with confusion - bring it on! :D

sportracer02
05-26-2009, 02:36 AM
Great, an interesting theme and model, always nice to follow your WIPs

Tim25
06-02-2009, 07:01 AM
Excellent work on one of the most beautiful F1 cars ever. Looking forward to your next update!

TIM

Decs0105
06-02-2009, 09:44 AM
I'm OK with confusion - bring it on! :D

We are used to confusion, it can't get any worse... :biggrin:

lovely work so far, as I said in one of the other threads :wink:!

jochen kieslich
06-02-2009, 02:13 PM
YES indeed, we are very used to ......thanx god!
This is a kind of modeling i like a lot!!
The search and demand for the ultimate scale reproduction.
Keep it up, very promising!

Yours
Jochen

F1Tommy
06-02-2009, 05:33 PM
Very nice work. You really are working the Tamiya kit over!

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo-Strictly 43rd Revival April 2010-Chicago

robrex
06-03-2009, 12:02 AM
Amazing!!!

Robi J
06-03-2009, 05:01 AM
I was waiting for your next plastic project despite I enjoyed the previous metal ones. What to say? Simply fantastic, I could yet image the final result. You amaze us !

Robi :)

maxone
06-03-2009, 08:35 AM
Hello jaykay. One question: when you've built your jig you considered the height from the ground? Because in your photos the undertray of the car seems in contact with the ground. Perhaps you have done so only to get a reference of the x and y position of the axes of the wheels, not for the z one ....
Sorry for my english. I hope you understand me so far. This car seems to become a DaVinci like your previously McLaren.

jaykay640
06-03-2009, 09:58 AM
Grazie ragazzi. Siamo molto italiano oggi:-)
Maxone....no problem at all. Your english is surely better than my italian....especially because when i write it's usually only phonetics. I only learned to speak some:-)

You observed the layout for the jig right. The undertray sits on the ground and the metal pins are a reference for the uprights in x, y and z ( without brakes and wheels attached ). Once the wheels are attached the car will sit allright.
I chose to do it like this because it makes the jig more simple and it takes the tolerances of the wheels and brakes out of the system when i rebuild the suspension arms between the monocoque/transmission and the uprights. You'll see:-)

I've been busy with the lathe and mill the last weekend. When i have organized that stuff and taken some pictures i'll post an update.

maxone
06-03-2009, 11:21 AM
OK.
I ask that because, only in my mind, I thought something like this for my Benetton B188 ... far away light years from your realizzation, but in my mind the ideas run free :screwy:. I don't know how you'll have the correct "order" (does it the right way to translate "assetto"? I don't know:confused:), but I seen that you can do things that we, umans, can't.
Good work!

EDIT: Ok, I'm stupid. I have seen the photos one more time and I understand how. Bye.

jaykay640
06-03-2009, 04:50 PM
Hi everyone, as promised here’s some more progress.
Last weekend I finally had some time to play with the lathe and mill ( I don’t wanna push the envelope with my neighbours too much so I can’t do that during weeknights :-) and now I can show you some new parts.
I mainly focused on the wheels and uprights. At first I wanted to modify the kit uprights and use them. Here you see the fronts ( already a bit sanded ):


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/15kitfrontuprights.jpg


…and the rear ones together with the typical Tamiya brakedisc + calliper pieces:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/16kitrearuprightsandbrakes.jpg


After some fiddling and checking against the reference pictures I realized though there’s no point and I should rather build the uprights from scratch. The Tamiya parts are all right as long as you keep the wheels mounted, but I want them removable and then it would show the suspension arms are not connected like on the real 191.
So I made some bits from renshape on the lathe. The small round hub is further detailed with segments from the big ring which needed more sanding and filing.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/17prototypeandcastuprightelements.jpg


That took quite some time and instead of making all four that way which was the original plan, I decided to cast the rest from resin. They do need more work of course to connect the suspension arms ( different for front and rear ).

To make the wheels removable ( and the wheels and brakediscs rotate together ) I had to make axles and proper wheelnuts instead of the Tamiya screws. Here is one screw “in the making” from brass rod. At first I expected problems with the little extension shaft ( or however you may call that…) of the nuts because that’s all very thin but they worked just fine. I used brass because I want to blacken them chemically later.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/18wheelnutinthemaking.jpg


In the meantime however I got the impression from reference pictures, that Jordan used the black nuts only on the left side and red ones on the right. Can anyone confirm that?

The stub axles were then turned from aluminium and the little green rings will later fix the axles in the uprights and keep them movable.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/19wheelnutsandaxles.jpg


I also made new brakediscs from renshape. They have the same size as the kit ones and I put in the ventilation holes. In front you can see the PE parts I made for the hub things that hold the discs.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/20newbrakediscsandbadPEhubdetail.jpg


Here are all the parts put together.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/21upright_axle_brakedisc_subassembl.jpg


Unfortunately I got the placement and size of the six holes around the axle in the etched parts wrong when I did the artwork before actually starting work on the kit back in winter, so I have to redo them along with some other etched parts that didn’t come out right because I was a bit ambitious with sizes and stuff :-)

Of course I also did something about the brake callipers. They have to be separate from the discs. I cut one off its Tamiya disc and filed and sanded and then milled it and added some detail to finally get the part on the left:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/22modifiedandcastbrakecalipers.jpg


Since that was a lot of work again that I didn’t wanna repeat 3 more times I cast it. The resin bits to the right are not really convincing like they are now but some cleanup should help :-)

Finally to get the wheels mounted to my new hubs and brakes I had to modify the Tamiya rims as well. I enlarged the centre holes to fit the axles and added a shamfer at the front for the wheelnuts. On the insides I puttied the ejector pin marks and the big circular gap around the spokes that Tamiya had to leave open to avoid sink marks on the outside.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/23modifiedrims.jpg


I filled everything up with thinned polyester putty and then sanded the rims chucking them in the lathe first and later my hand drill/motor tool for the fine work.
Finally I made the 6 holes whose positions I got wrong on the opposing brakedisk PE parts. They are a bit small yet but that will be changed later.

So, that’s it again. I hope you liked it and stay tuned for more :-)

P.S......Jochen....congrats for the best of show award for your DBR9! That's definitely deserved and quite an achievement among all those plane and armor dudes :-)

jano11
06-03-2009, 05:55 PM
:eek2: Awesome!
Looking forward to see more of this kind of model building!

gasdriverca
06-03-2009, 07:35 PM
Hey this is cheating lol!!!

klutz_100
06-04-2009, 01:20 AM
Scale magic fantasy !! Love it :worshippy

mike@af
06-04-2009, 11:53 AM
Excellent work as usual JayKay. Thank you for sharing all your progress to see how everything goes together and let us get inside your mind. I look forward to the next update!

F1Tommy
06-04-2009, 04:06 PM
Wow...great work. Just amazing.


Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo-Strictly 43rd Revival model/photo contest April 2010-Chicago

ModelerSite
06-04-2009, 06:48 PM
Absolutely stunning!

Robi J
06-05-2009, 10:10 AM
I hate you jaykay :iceslolan

cinqster
06-05-2009, 10:25 AM
Gorgeous work JayKay!:licka:

I may have missed the plot, but are you doing you own photoetching now, or are you farming it out to someone else?

Also, any chance we can have a look at that milling tool not spinning please? :) I use an ordinary end mill for such jobs and I'm interested in seeing what you are using!

Best of luck with it!

jaykay640
06-05-2009, 02:41 PM
No problem cinqster. Here's a picture of the milling heads i'm using most of the time:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/25millingheads.jpg

I use them mostly in the hand piece of my motor tool for grinding and stuff but also in the mill when they fit the task. For the wheel nuts i used the one on the very left but others would have done the job as well. I also have some small "standard" milling heads ( the ones that look like drills ) but need more variety there.
I should mention though that the wheelnuts were sanded with fine sandpaper after milling. They looked rougher before :-)

I do make my own photoetch. The only part i "farm out" is the making of the films. I posted the steps in my MP4/4 build report so i didn't repeat all that again here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=444745&page=4

cinqster
06-05-2009, 03:16 PM
Cheers for the info Jaykay.

If it's any consolation I still have to clean up the faces of the nuts sometimes when I'm using a three or four blade end mill. Probably a combination of me not getting the correct rpm v feed speed...loads to learn still!:)

jaykay640
06-07-2009, 04:52 PM
Hi, here’s some more progress :-)

This may not look as impressive as the turned and milled parts i showed you last time but in fact it was more time consuming and trickier because most of it had to be done by hand with test fitting and checking over and over again.
Anyway….here we go. Before I can go about and build the suspension I had to put the front of the monocoque together.
The part I made to house the front damper needed a further addition with these channels.
The pushrods will run through them.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/26frontdamperhousingwithpushrodtunn.jpg


The next part is the front bulkhead of the monocoque. I want to make the nosecone removable so I try to build it like the real one. I photo etched a frame with the holes for the mounting pins of the nose and a corresponding frame piece that goes on the nosecone to get everything aligned properly.
I doubled up the etched frame with styrene because I can’t etch it in the correct thickness.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/27noseadaptorplate.jpg


Next you can see the two pieces mounted on the monocoque. Of course I shortened the monocoque by the thickness of the new bulkhead before adding it to keep the original length :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/28monocoquewithnosedetails.jpg


At the same time I made another piece that won’t be visible at a first glance but I find it important. That’s the inside of the monocoque with the dashboard bulkhead.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/29dashboardwithlegtub.jpg


The black dashboard piece is from the kit. I sanded off some details and then added a thin styrene strip on the outside because there was a gap with the monocoque when it was in place. Tamiya just left a big hole where the driver’s legs would go that would leave the suspension arms visible, so I added a tub that will cover them and also take up the pedals and steering column. The part can easily be slid in from the cockpit during final assembly.
Here you can see it dry fit with the rest of the cockpit.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/30dashtunnelinplace.jpg


So on to the nosecone with front wing. Here you have the original kit pieces:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/31kitfrontwingandnosecone.jpg


I cut the flaps off the wing ( they will be replaced ), glued it to the nosecone and after filling up some holes and gaps sanded all the surfaces.

Then I added the photo etched frame bit and some styrene that corresponds to the monocoque front bulkhead I made.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/32noseconewithconnectorplate.jpg


And finally here is the nosecone held to the monocoque with two 0,5mm pins and I keep my fingers crossed that this will still fit after paint and decals :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/33frontwingattached.jpg


So much for now and thanks for checking!

robrex
06-07-2009, 06:12 PM
Wow! That's about the only comment I can make when viewing your builds! You should consider writing a book that details some of your builds from start to finish! It'd be a best seller as far as hobby books are concerned.

builder77
06-07-2009, 08:47 PM
Amazing attention to detail.
I love watching your builds.
Chris

klutz_100
06-07-2009, 11:40 PM
Insane! (in teh good way ;) )

Wow! That's about the only comment I can make when viewing your builds! You should consider writing a book that details some of your builds from start to finish! It'd be a best seller as far as hobby books are concerned.
Totally agree with what Rob said :1:

Robi J
06-08-2009, 01:55 AM
Insane! (in the good way ;) )


Totally agree with what Rob said :1:

:1:

Robi

maxone
06-18-2009, 04:26 PM
Ok, big-jay. Another question (yes, I'm trying to thieve your secrets :iceslolan):
What kind of thinner do you use for the polyester putty?
Thanks so much.

RallyRaider
06-19-2009, 08:06 AM
Yikes! Some seriously impressive turning and etching going on in this thread. Can't wait to see more.

jaykay640
06-19-2009, 11:57 AM
Guys, thanks again :-) This build report is my "modeling book". I also doubt too many people would buy a book like that. Ask modeling magazines how many copies they sell these days. I think the WEB is a very good tool to do this but once i'm done with this build i think i will make one book for myself from the build report :-)

maxone... i use ordinary nitro thinner for the putty ( ZERO thinner works also ). I mix it with some of the white putty until i have the right viscosity and then add the red hardener. The thinner may slow the drying though.


Anyway, time for some more build progress.

I carried on working at the front end of the car. It was time for the suspension arms. I had to rework the lower front arms substantially. While I kept the rear chassis “connector” from Tamiya I had to change the one at the front because that will now be visible with the removable nose cone and should look like the original. Also the outer one had to be remade to connect to my new upright. I had to guess a bit because I don’t have enough pictures of that area but it seems to be the same sort of connection the McLaren MP4/4 has at the top of the front uprights so I built it accordingly.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/34frontsuspensionelements.jpg


I used brass tubes for better strength and the little silver part is turned from aluminium.
The white part is the pushrod I scratch built from 1mm sheet styrene, because the kit ones weren’t long enough. That’s because the connection points of the suspension arms to the uprights are too close to the chassis on the kit parts. I made mine more like the real ones so the pushrods ended up being a bit short to later connect them to the front damper in the nose. I could have tried to extend the kit parts but making new ones wasn’t really more work.

Next you see the arms held in place to the monocoque with two 0,4mm drills on photo etched brackets I made.
In the etched frame on the monocoque I also made two cutouts where the steering mechanism will later go.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/35lowerfrontsuspensionarmsdrymounte.jpg


On the outside you have the arm connected to the upright which is held on the jig. The upright is connected to the arm with another etched bracket.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/36lowerfrontsuspensiondrymounted.jpg


Finally here’s an overview with both sides dry mounted.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/37frontsuspensiononjigoverview.jpg


The jig was a really good thing to build. It doesn’t speed up the build but makes it more precise. Only because I had it for reference, did I notice that the lower arms were about 0,5mm too wide in the beginning. That sounds very small but 0,5mm in the wrong place can really screw the whole suspension geometry and make the car sit wrong in the end.
Now I will have to do the upper arms and steering arms which will be at least as much work...

Because I was a bit annoyed with the suspension arms I also started working on the brake ducts. In the kit they are typically for Tamiya an integral part of the upright as I showed you previously.
Mine are separate for ease of painting and decaling and simply because they’re like that on the real car :-) I used the kit parts, thinned them out from the inside and then closed the channels with sheet styrene and added the shapes that connect them to the upright and funnel the air with more styrene sheet a turned bit of renshape and some polyester putty.
Here are two views of the left side duct. Now I have to make a symmetric one for the right side….:-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/38leftfrontbrakeduct.jpg


So much for now and thanks for looking!

hakkfan
06-19-2009, 12:07 PM
You are my hero man. I don't care if you ever paint a part, I could watch you work all day!

Awesome......

Clay

gionc
06-19-2009, 12:38 PM
Lucky times! Two of my preferred AF heroes! Few days ago Dennis back with a jewel and now Jay is showing how much fun he's feeling and how HI he's able to pull the bar.

How to say... fantastic, one of those thread that make you back to your own desk immediatly.

Your contribution to community's knowledge and motivation is HUGE!

klutz_100
06-20-2009, 12:03 AM
You are my hero man. I don't care if you ever paint a part, I could watch you work all day!
That just about sums it up perfectly! :)

JayKay, I always read your updates with a huge smile on my face. Entrancing work :thumbsup:

mike@af
06-20-2009, 12:21 AM
Beautiful work JayKay. Your parts are so incredibly clean and precise. I cant wait to see more progress!

mrawl
06-20-2009, 04:28 AM
Exquisite work! It really shows what can be done with top-class planning and execution.

maxone
06-21-2009, 04:19 PM
Thank you jay, I'll try nitro with polyester putty. Ok: mine It's not white, but I hope nitro will works anyway ;)

Robi J
06-22-2009, 09:55 AM
Planning, exection and neatness are simply astonishing...

Hat off Jay !

Robi :)

jaykay640
06-27-2009, 05:35 AM
@hakkfan....paint or even primer is still some time to go, but eventually it will be painted :-)

...and here we go with build progress of an area i haven’t shown yet. Obviously that’s the engine :-)
I first cut off the rear wing supports which will be replaced. This also gave me room to build a new gearbox/final gear cover. Because of the integrated wing supports that area is nowhere near the original on the kit parts because the injection tooling wouldn’t work. The same goes for the top area of the gear box.
After gluing the engine halves together and cleaning up the visible seams I rebuilt the final gear cover with styrene. There’s a nice picture of the gear box out off the car in the F1Modeling Schumacher Special that helped a lot.
At the sides I filled up the holes for the suspension arms and some ugly locator pins for bodywork parts that I won’t use. The suspension will be overhauled just like the front and I want to detail the connectors/brackets better.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/39beginninggearboxmodifications.jpg


So on to the rear wing supports. The Tamiya ones are not that wrong, but they could be better detailed. The machined frame pattern on the kit parts is only on the outside but on the real ones it’s on both sides. So I etched a central plate and two frames for each side from 0,2mm nickel silver. The artwork for these parts was the most complicated to do of all the parts I made for the Jordan. Here you see the two sprues ( they’re identical at least :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/40PEforrearwingsupports.jpg


After cleaning the parts up I assembled them with super glue.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/41rearwingsupportsassembled.jpg


And next you see them together with more wing parts.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/42rearwingelements.jpg


The wing elements from the kit are all sanded clean and I filled up the holes for locator pins on the undersides because I don’t like those. In addition you see some more etched bits I will use to detail the rear wing better.
The Tamyia wing endplates aren’t bad ( apart from that locator pin issue :-) but I decided to try something more detailed with them as well. Why easy if you can do it the complicated way!? :-)
I etched two layers of 0,1mm nickel silver and then made the thick areas at the front from 0,4mm styrene sheet.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/43rearwingendplateparts.jpg


The tricky part will be to put them together and then paint and polish them without losing all the tiny crisp details I achieved so far!
In the end I want to put the wing together with metal bolts just like the real one. I hope all this is gonna work out :-)

So much for now! This was the last update for a while. This time next week I’ll be at Goodwood, hunting reference pictures for even more projects I’ll never get around to build and then I’m on holidays, so don’t expect anything new before mid August :-)

Cheers!

jano11
06-27-2009, 07:18 AM
The effort you put in this build is impressive and the results are up to it too! :worshippy

klutz_100
06-27-2009, 11:36 AM
Someone pinch me please! I must be dreaming.... :D

DEFINITELY my favourite serial on AF at the moment :thumbsup:

billypee
06-28-2009, 11:36 AM
Superb work JayKay. Enjoy the break.

mike@af
06-28-2009, 01:47 PM
Stunning work! You are the photoetch master, those wing uprights are beautiful! Using photoetch was a brilliant idea instead of machining those indentations out of renshape or aluminum.

Why easy if you can do it the complicated way!? :-)

Great motto!

jaykay640
09-15-2009, 05:57 PM
Hi everyone

After what turned out to be an extended summer break i’m back working on the Jordan and finally i have some stuff together that makes sense to show.

The first job was to thin out the lower bodywork parts left and right of the engine from the backside, add a bit of wall on the inside of the sidepod intakes and then add 0,1mm metal strips at the upper edges. I had to „smooth“ them in with putty and they will ( hopefully) hold the cowling instead of those ugly locator pins :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/44lowerrearbodyworkelements.jpg


Now the next step is of course the cowling. I started by also thinning it out from the inside but that’s where i still am. I need to properly match it up with the aforementioned lower bodywork parts and the cockpit tub and that’s rather tricky. Without the Tamiya pins it doesn’t just sit flush on the other parts ( especially around the cockpit ). There’s some tweaking and bending necessary and that’s scary stuff. I’m in fact working on my second cowling because the bending ( which involves a hot air gun…) went wrong when i was almost finished the first time…..don’t ask…styrene melts suddenly and sometimes where you don’t need it! :-)

So to cheer myself up I decided to do some fun parts and got going on the lathe and mill to do bits for the suspension. In a previous update i have already shown the new front push-rods i made. Well i found out soon after, that the ( green ) rod ends were in fact wrong. There should be adjustable parts. So i remade them from aluminium and brass ( for the hex nuts ) and also added slightly smaller samples at the tops.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/45frontpushrodassembly.jpg


They are then fixed to a bracket which connects them to the front mono-shock in the nose. I don’t have a picture of the original part so i had to make something up that looks kinda credible :-)

Then came the damper and the same problem of insufficient reference material. There are good pictures of the rear dampers in the Perfect Manual but the front damper is not exactly the same so i designed it along the lines of the rear ones and of what i could see of it. As you can see in the next picture it consists of quite a few parts made from aluminium, plexiglass, renshape and 0,6mm wire. The whole assembly has a diameter of 4mm. There are in fact some more parts still to come… :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/46frontmonoshockelements.jpg


The next parts to be made were for the steering mechanism which will be movable after assembly ( at least that’s the plan :-). I used various diameter brass tubes and added turned aluminium parts. Those tiny cone shaped parts are quite fragile and they really made me wonder, how sturdy the originals must have been. They don’t look like something i would trust while going through Eau Rouge :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/47steeringelements.jpg


Photoetched rod ends will connect the steering arms to the uprights via those black pieces. These brackets are made from black plexiglass because without the need to paint them they are less likely to loose their details which took serious time to mill and then file/sand by hand.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/48frontuprighttopbrackets.jpg


The brighter looking areas with very thin walls only show up under strong light like in the picture :-)

The upper kit suspension arms had to be modified like the lower ones to be connected to the new brackets on the uprights and also on the chassis where I made two more tiny parts from plexiglass that should look better than the moulded in blobs on the kit arms once painted :-)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/49modifiedfrontuppersupensionarmsan.jpg


So finally here are some shots with all those parts dry assembled on the chassis. The jig proved to be of invaluable help while getting all the pieces aligned and sized right.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/50monoshockandsteeringdrymountedfro.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/51monoshockandsteeringdrymounted.jpg



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Jordan%20191/52monoshockandsteeringdrymounted.jpg



Making all those bits may seem somewhat silly but that’s what I really enjoy ( much more than painting and polishing ) and I tend to get carried away with it. I already did some more parts that I will show in updates to come :-)

It leaves me however with the cowling to fix and that has to be done before I can start priming and painting…sigh :-)

F1Tommy
09-15-2009, 06:25 PM
Amazing work!!! BRAVO. Can't wait to see more.

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 2010

Raikkobin
09-15-2009, 10:49 PM
So, when people drive near your house, is there a sign marked "Artisan" nearby pointing in your direction? You could charge a fee for people to gaze at your work. You capture the scale weight of the pieces to a remarkable level. Good eye and even better execution..updates, updates, updates!!

mrawl
09-16-2009, 02:14 AM
Amazing work with results to match. Your dedication and skill are really quite something jaykay.

jano11
09-16-2009, 03:23 AM
:worshippy

gtziaf
09-16-2009, 08:10 AM
:worshippy :worshippy
:worshippy
:worshippy
So real!!! So good... So I don 't have words

kans0002
09-16-2009, 08:33 AM
i just read through this entire post twice and I am still in shock...never in my wildest dreams would i hope my work was this good.

bravo!

Stuart

da_ashman
09-17-2009, 07:50 PM
Stunning work, amazing strachbuilding. Cant wait to see how detiailed your engine is gonna be considering the lengths youve gone to on the suspension.
Are you going to display the finished model in a garage setting, ie with all the parts off, ready to assemble for raceday?
Cant wait for the next installment

builder77
09-17-2009, 07:59 PM
Simply amazing.
Chris

Add your comment to this topic!