:uhoh: I just replaced the water pump on the 4.0 engine in my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. When it broke down there was a lot of steam under the hood.

Once I fixed it I test drove it at night and noticed that the instruments cluster in the dash and the compass would dim from norm and then back to normal. I noted that the Headlights and the Stereo did not dim at all.

Here are the questions.

1. Is this a Dimmer Switch that is worn out?
2. Is it possible that all that steam did something under the hood to mess this up?
3. Is there a reset that I should do after a repair like the water pump to reset anything?
4. Could it just be a coincidence that these two things got worn out at the exact same time?

Bad soldering joints in the headlight switch.

:uhoh: I just replaced the water pump on the 4.0 engine in my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. When it broke down there was a lot of steam under the hood.

Once I fixed it I test drove it at night and noticed that the instruments cluster in the dash and the compass would dim from norm and then back to normal. I noted that the Headlights and the Stereo did not dim at all.

Here are the questions.

1. Is this a Dimmer Switch that is worn out?
2. Is it possible that all that steam did something under the hood to mess this up?
3. Is there a reset that I should do after a repair like the water pump to reset anything?
4. Could it just be a coincidence that these two things got worn out at the exact same time?

Should I just buy a new headlight switch or is there something I can do to this one to fix it?

Thanks

I had the same problem on both 96's, Took the switch apart and re-soldered all of the solder joints and the switch works as good as new. Five minute job once the switch is removed.

Should I just buy a new headlight switch or is there something I can do to this one to fix it?

Thanks

Is the switch easy to take apart or will I pull it apart and stuff fly all over the place never to come back together?

LOL the are no gears or springs that will pop out, its not a wrist watch. Easy job

Is the switch easy to take apart or will I pull it apart and stuff fly all over the place never to come back together?

I think I will go buy a new Soldering iron and give it a go, my old one is not working so well!

Thats still alot cheaper then buying a new switch.

I think I will go buy a new Soldering iron and give it a go, my old one is not working so well!

:wink: Okay I took the switch out of the dash and removed the white panel on the back that had two screws. I soldered all of the terminal points and put the switch back together. This process worked great, the hardest part for me was pulling it out of the front of the dash.

I don’t know why it worked all solder points looked like they were good, must have been micro fractures in some of them.

Thanks for your help no new part was required and I got a tool out of the deal too.

Well, I had my doubts, but a quick re-solder of the contact did do the trick. The hardest part is getting the switch unit in and out of the dash.
Steps I did:
-Pry off the wood grain cover over the switch area
-Remove (most) screws from dash panel cover
-Remove (most) screws from lower panel cover (below steering wheel)
-Remove screws holding switch unit in place
-Lifting up on upper dash cover, slide switch unit

-Unplug harness wire (pull back on tab of clip)
-With switch unit out, unscrew small white cover and other 2 screws
-Pull off switch caps from front of unit
-Now the circuit board should pull right out.

-I heated up the main connectors along the dimmer switch back side just enough to re-melt the solder a little.

-Do steps in reverse to put it all back.

Should take about 30 minutes.
Did call dealer and for a $100 they could order a new switch unit ...always good to have a safety net :).

Thanks to the others before me that suggested this!!!

-I heated up the main connectors along the dimmer switch back side just enough to re-melt the solder a little.


Did you use a heat sink? Or were the connector points easy to handle with a standard sized iron tip?

Thanks.

The connection points are small but you should be able to do the work with a standard iron tip! The hardest part of this fix is getting the switch out of the dash of the vehicle.