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Need Pointers on Replacing CV Assembly


Rolm
04-21-2009, 11:55 AM
Need Pointers on Replacing CV Assembly

I am getting ready to replace my CV on the 99 Intrigue 3.8 left side. I have a question how do I separate the CV shaft from the Transmission will I need a special tool. Thanks for the feedback.

Airjer_
04-21-2009, 12:11 PM
Use a big pry bar and pop it out. Sometimes you will have to rotate the shaft and pry on different places other times you just have to breath on them and they pop out. Make sure you have a drain pan under that area to catch any trans fluid that may leak out when the axle is removed.

ricebike
04-21-2009, 12:18 PM
do you also have that big nut socket that goes on the spindle-to-wheel hub?

and a torque wrench to properly retorque the nut to 150 ft.lbs?

you can rent these tools from autozone

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp

Rolm
04-21-2009, 02:15 PM
Thanks for the pointers, I better have at least 1-liter of trans fluid just in case. I do have the socket I did replace the right wheel hub a few years ago. I will have to borrow a torque wrench, I do not think we have Autozone in the Toronto area. I will ask the parts store where I will be buying the CV if they have such a program.

Rolm
04-22-2009, 08:24 AM
Once I remove the bearing Hub, can I just remove the CV or will I need a puller to remove the lower ball joint. Just trying to gather the tools I may need before I start this job. I did order a New CV at a cost of $93 with a life-time warranty or I can buy a rebuilt for $89. I can see why anyone would buy a rebuilt CV to save $4.

ricebike
04-22-2009, 09:47 AM
i can rent that puller too from autozone, but you're in toronto... did you see the online free repair guide i linked on my other post?

just don't use a pickle fork to do it; it'll probably destroy the rubber boot in the process

there's a way to do it w/ just a hammer... loosen the nut, but keep it on

bang it from the side to jar it off

Airjer_
04-22-2009, 09:58 AM
YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY!

Jack the car up, remove the tire, put 2 lug nuts back on to hold the rotor in place, remove the caliper (optional, reduces the stress on the brake hose), remove the spindle nut (big nut on the axle shaft), separate the lower ball joint, with the knuckle free from the lower control arm tap on the end of the axle with a hammer, pull axle out of hub/bearing/knuckle assembly, remove other end of axle from transmission.

Reinstall tips. Make sure you lube the end of the axle that mates with the trans seal with a little grease. make sure the axle is seated all the way into the hub before trying to join the ball joint and knuckle. Torquing the axle nut is important, failure to do so will can result in bearing failure!!

Rolm
04-22-2009, 02:15 PM
YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY!

Jack the car up, remove the tire, put 2 lug nuts back on to hold the rotor in place, remove the caliper (optional, reduces the stress on the brake hose), remove the spindle nut (big nut on the axle shaft), separate the lower ball joint, with the knuckle free from the lower control arm tap on the end of the axle with a hammer, pull axle out of hub/bearing/knuckle assembly, remove other end of axle from transmission.

Reinstall tips. Make sure you lube the end of the axle that mates with the trans seal with a little grease. make sure the axle is seated all the way into the hub before trying to join the ball joint and knuckle. Torquing the axle nut is important, failure to do so will can result in bearing failure!!

Thank-you for the input, you make it sound so easy, I guess I will need to rent a puller to separate the lower ball joint. I will keep you updated, The weather will be great over the weekend I will give it a try or I can job it out to a mobile mechanic his charge $75 for the install.

Rolm
04-23-2009, 12:12 PM
Ok I am going for it. I did order the part and the place where I bought the part they do have loan a tool. What is the puller called, they had all kinds of pullers.

Airjer_
04-23-2009, 01:46 PM
You don't need a puller for the lower ball joint. Once you have the nut off just wack the knuckle where the shaft of the ball joint goes through. Have somebody pry down on the control arm while you do hit. 3 or 4 solid hits and it should pop!

hendrix3511
04-23-2009, 01:50 PM
Sounds like a chance to break something to me, if he can get the tool and a short tutorial how to use it I would say go that way. If not, then I would try alternative methods just like the one you suggested.

BTW
Getting someone to help is not always easy.

Rolm
04-24-2009, 08:45 AM
Ok I removed the wheel and I can't see how it's posible to remove the CV by simply removing the stering knuckel from the ball joint, by doing this will I be able to turn the wheel assembly enough to get the cv out and what do I do abought the torsion bar?

ricebike
04-24-2009, 09:53 AM
the torsion bar? or are you talking about the sway bar/ stabilizer link?

scroll up to my link to autozone's free online manual

they have pics and step by step instructions (i can't post copyrighted pics on here)

the smacking w/ the hammer technique is a good alternative to the ball joint puller, but keep the nut on but loose so when it does pop off, the nut will catch the violent movement and not swing so far...

PS: it also says to use a puller to separate the hub from the axle... but i guess airjer's alternative to tap it out w/ a hammer is a good alternate as well

just look at the autozone's haynes/chilton's free online repair manual

Airjer_
04-24-2009, 09:59 AM
Its not so much turning the knuckle as it is pulling the knuckle out away from the car. You don't do anything with the torsion bar.

This video gives you an idea of what removing the lower ball joint allows you to do!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTDblxDpyRI

Rolm
04-24-2009, 01:33 PM
Its not so much turning the knuckle as it is pulling the knuckle out away from the car. You don't do anything with the torsion bar.

This video gives you an idea of what removing the lower ball joint allows you to do!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTDblxDpyRI

My main problem is I can not seperate the lower ball joint. The guy in the video used a pickle fork to separate the two. Now I am srewed I have the car apart and no way of getting to the store till the wife comes home to pick up a pickle fork. I did try to hammer on the lower arm with no sucess. Any othe ideas

krivasauto
04-24-2009, 02:37 PM
My main problem is I can not seperate the lower ball joint. The guy in the video used a pickle fork to separate the two. Now I am srewed I have the car apart and no way of getting to the store till the wife come home to pisk up a pickle fork. I did try to hammer on the lower arm with no sucess. Any othe ideas

I was able to separate my ball joint with a big pry bar levered on the control arm.

Rolm
04-24-2009, 03:06 PM
I was able to separate my ball joint with a big pry bar levered on the control arm.

I tried a crow bar could not get enough of a bite the crow bar kept on sliping off. I do not want to go near the bolt that holds the ball joint fearing of bending the threads. I will try and get a ball joit remover as shown on the auto zone picture. I new this was going to turn out a day job.

Rolm
04-24-2009, 04:35 PM
Ok I did get the lower ball joint seperated. After reviewing the only way it was possible was by jacking up on the wheel hub, this relesed the stress the spring was putting on the lower cotrol arm. After a few good wacks with a hammer the lower arm game off. I hope I did not strip the threads on the ball joint.

Next problem I tried removing the CV joint from the trans it will not seperate. I tried with a crow bar no luck. Is there anything holding that CV in the trans.

Rolm
04-24-2009, 07:19 PM
Job complete I will explain the steps that are a must on a 99 Intrigue. Thank you all for the input

Rolm
04-24-2009, 10:13 PM
Well guys I would suggest you do not try replacing the CV on your own unless you have done it before or you have some one instructing you. I did install the new CV went for a test drive and the dam transmission was leaking at the CV joint. When I installed the new CV I did not know abought the dam little C clip that holds the CV in the transmission. When I went for a drive the CV at the transmission pulled out half-way out of the transmission not sealing properly. The old C clip was stuck in the old CV on the inside. Any way the clicking sound was still there even with the new CV. I think the clicking sound was made by my bad Hub bearing. What a horror story.

I want to install the old CV shaft back but the c clip is stuck in the inside of the grove preventing me from inserting the CV all the way into the transmission side. Now What.

Airjer_
04-25-2009, 04:50 PM
the ball joint should be attached to the lower control arm with rivets, right?

You need to strike the knuckle where the ball joint goes through it. I separate GM ball joints like this every day and they will usually pop after a couple of blows. The problem with using a pickle fork is it will destroy the protective boot for the ball joint.

Rolm
04-26-2009, 09:37 AM
the ball joint should be attached to the lower control arm with rivets, right?

You need to strike the knuckle where the ball joint goes through it. I separate GM ball joints like this every day and they will usually pop after a couple of blows. The problem with using a pickle fork is it will destroy the protective boot for the ball joint.

This is my problem Now

I want to install the old CV shaft back but the c clip is stuck in the inside of the grove preventing me from inserting the CV all the way into the transmission side. Now What.

Rolm
04-26-2009, 10:40 AM
Question; As I stated on the other threads I am re-intalling my old cv shaft. The c ring is on the inside of the CV shaft in the grove. I lubed the shaft I can not push the shaft all the way in, it stops at the C-ring, by pushing on the cv shaft I should be able to pass the c-ring and into the final grove Yes/No any thoughts.

Airjer_
04-26-2009, 10:52 AM
sometimes you need to be a little aggressive! sometimes you need to give them a little tap. If the clip is on the end of the new shaft apply bearing grease to the area where the clip is. This will hold the clip in a more centered position and will make it easier to slip into the splines.

Rolm
04-26-2009, 09:14 PM
What a horror story, I was stumped so I called a mobile mechanic ( I will say this guy was great) he removed the C ring from inside the CV shaft installed it on the transmission shaft were it was suppose to be ( he was surprised I did not get a new C-ring with my new CV) he slipped the CV on the transmission shaft is 30 seconds I was trying to do this all day. He also installed a new bearing as per my direction thinking this was the cause of the clicking sound, guess what the clinking sound was still there. So the bearing and the CV was not the cause of the clinking sound, he double checked to see if there was anything touching when I was turning the wheel to the left or the right ( the cars front end was jacked and we ran the front wheels) During our road test the mechanic said the clicking sound was coming from the right side and not the left, he said lets install the old bearing that was on the left side ( proved to be good) After installing the bearing we test the car on the road and the clinking was still there only when turning to the right. Note: the clinking sound is a very metallic sound like 2 pieces of metal rubbing. Now What

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