Oil pan gasket replacement

I remember one of the fellow members replacing oil pan gasket not so long ago....

For my truck, 00 with 5.3 engine and 4x4, how much of a hassle is it for DIY mech, with drive on ramps? Maybe jackstanding rear end same time for better access?

I have, otherwise, all tools necessary. Have Chilton too, but am more curious, what are the under water riffs to anticipate? They have something about pan alignment with trannie bellhousing, that always sounds important and easy to screw up. :evillol:

Any brackets that need to be bent, like for transmission pan? Differentials falling down on your head? :naughty:
I do not have much of loss, just wet front, no stains underneath at all, oil level stays where it's supposed to be for LONG time. Maybe it's just synth oil I'm using. But it's headed in the wrong direction with this.

Will appreciate first hand experiences.

I do not have much of loss, just wet front, no stains underneath at all, oil level stays where it's supposed to be for LONG time. Maybe it's just synth oil I'm using. But it's headed in the wrong direction with this.

Will appreciate first hand experiences.

WHY ? if the oil leak is not falling on the ground let it be..
the vehicle at this age will have dampness like this...this could last another 8yrs...wait until you have need to do this..like oil pump failure..

WHY ? if the oil leak is not falling on the ground let it be..
the vehicle at this age will have dampness like this...this could last another 8yrs...wait until you have need to do this..like oil pump failure..

I guess - owner pride? I can't stand leaking engines and gaskets.:nono::nono::nono: But! I'll remove some parts over the weekend, get to the front of the pan, and check bolts. might be just loose ones.

I guess - owner pride? I can't stand leaking engines and gaskets.:nono::nono::nono: But! I'll remove some parts over the weekend, get to the front of the pan, and check bolts. might be just loose ones.

by cleaning the area with out the use of strong degreasers locate the exact leak source...if it is just a small size,,I have had success with applying sealant externally to the leak area..allow several hours to cure...

could be leaking above the pan , falling down..

tightening the pan hardware could make it worse.... as the pan is sealed with a 1/8in bead of sealant...

by cleaning the area with out the use of strong degreasers locate the exact leak source...if it is just a small size,,I have had success with applying sealant externally to the leak area..allow several hours to cure...

could be leaking above the pan , falling down..

tightening the pan hardware could make it worse.... as the pan is sealed with a 1/8in bead of sealant...

thanks, J
I can see engine block above the wand of wires that run across the front of the pan. main pully and such. dry as a desert. oil is covering that wires bundle. the rest of the pan, as far as I can tell, is dry.
I'll remove plastic cover in the front and underbelly protective plate saturday, that should give me clear view at the gasket. maybe scoot those wires some.
I don't remember which car was it that we had once, but pan bolts had a nasty habit of loosening themselves every now and then. one of domestics, I think, it was Chrysler.
well aware of taking it easy on the bolts... that's why I can't stand cork gaskets.

thanks, J
I can see engine block above the wand of wires that run across the front of the pan. main pully and such. dry as a desert. oil is covering that wires bundle. the rest of the pan, as far as I can tell, is dry.
I'll remove plastic cover in the front and underbelly protective plate saturday, that should give me clear view at the gasket. maybe scoot those wires some.
I don't remember which car was it that we had once, but pan bolts had a nasty habit of loosening themselves every now and then. one of domestics, I think, it was Chrysler.
well aware of taking it easy on the bolts... that's why I can't stand cork gaskets.

I don't believe this engine uses any cork...basicly its an 1/8in bead of sealant....

let's say you find some loose pan bolts,,,,,,remove each loose bolt one at a time ,, spray electronic cleaner in the bolt hole, and then apply sealant in the hole,, then torque bolt gently...

use of a hand driver rather than a rachet is best ...


allow 2-3hrs for the sealant to cure..
.

thanks, J


did you find the leak source...?
spilling a small amount of oil could be the explaination..

did you find the leak source...?
spilling a small amount of oil could be the explaination..

me drink not
me hands shake not
me spill not:tongue:

no, it was seeping through the front of the pan gasket. about 700 miles later and it is still ok after red silicone application. definitely not main seal. definitely was not spill.

If you just started using the synthetic oil? It may be the culprit. Changing oils at times will cause leaks due to the different detergents and sealing properties between the two different brands or blends.

If you just started using the synthetic oil? It may be the culprit. Changing oils at times will cause leaks due to the different detergents and sealing properties between the two different brands or blends.

ever since bought truck, 2 years march. it was obviously slow seepage. i had same feeling though - that it is not quite made for slick synth oils. well, i'd rather have engine running like swiss watch and deal with seepage.

me drink not
me hands shake not
me spill not:tongue:

no, it was seeping through the front of the pan gasket. about 700 miles later and it is still ok after red silicone application. definitely not main seal. definitely was not spill.

I have had success with doing what you did [not remove the pan...].

using cleaner [paint thinner/mineral spirits ] with a tooth brush then blow dry and externaly apply sealant ...

torquing usually makes it worse..as it will push out the loose sealant and may deform the metal pan..

I have had success with doing what you did [not remove the pan...].

using cleaner [paint thinner/mineral spirits ] with a tooth brush then blow dry and externaly apply sealant ...

torquing usually makes it worse..as it will push out the loose sealant and may deform the metal pan..

What sealant do you use? Since I changed to a motor oil geared for trucks over 75,000 miles my oil leak has gotten worse. I need to get under there and see where its coming from but it apprears to be where the oil pan connects to the bottom of the motor...

What sealant do you use? Since I changed to a motor oil geared for trucks over 75,000 miles my oil leak has gotten worse. I need to get under there and see where its coming from but it apprears to be where the oil pan connects to the bottom of the motor...


use the high temp silicone sealant at the auto parts store..
if the area is degreased this will hold and usually stops small leaks....

sometimes the oil pan can get damaged [bent] jacking on it usually is the cause..this then would require a new one...

use of mineral spirts will not damage the sealant.....for cleaning.. stronger solvents like carb cleaner will melt the sealant and make more leaking...

What sealant do you use? Since I changed to a motor oil geared for trucks over 75,000 miles my oil leak has gotten worse. I need to get under there and see where its coming from but it apprears to be where the oil pan connects to the bottom of the motor...

Hey guys...I have posted about replacing my opg not too long ago. I also changed to high mileage oil and that is when I started to notice the leak. I de-gunked the motoer and then added oil dye to the motor. My opg was leaking from just above the oil filter. It was not the external oil cooler cap, but was just above that point. All is good now. Pretty easy job to do yourself. I would suggest using a gm part over felpro (just what I was told). The cost on the gm is somewhere around 30 bucks.

Hey guys...I have posted about replacing my opg not too long ago. I also changed to high mileage oil and that is when I started to notice the leak. I de-gunked the motoer and then added oil dye to the motor. My opg was leaking from just above the oil filter. It was not the external oil cooler cap, but was just above that point. All is good now. Pretty easy job to do yourself. I would suggest using a gm part over felpro (just what I was told). The cost on the gm is somewhere around 30 bucks.

ok, so i found you. if you still remember, what are the tips for replacement? easy for might be a nightmare for someone else. like that transmission pan gasket - i have done many, and got totally stuck on this one, until i found that gear shifter bracket needs to be bent away.