new rotor, cap and battery, have 190v from coil, can hear start relay click, have fuel from pump.

Plug wires? Plugs? Hows about a little more indepth history of what's going on? You can spin your statement two ways: "can hear start relay click" implies it's not cranking; "Spark on 1 and 4 only" implies it's cranking but not starting. Please clarify. Anything messed with prior to the problem showing itself?

SORRY IT IS SPRAK PLUG 1 - 2 THAT SPARK, NOT 1 -4. new plugs and wire last year, i took a new plug and put it on the frame and turn the key to start, tried with every wire, can only see a spark on wire 1 and 4. i can hear the starter turning and the serpentine belt turning. last week end the vehicule would stall when idling. i could hear some noise coming from the engine on the left side if your facing it. it has 250k.

What did the noise sound like? Can you be more specific about what part of the engine the noise was coming from?

From what i heard with a wooden rod it sounded like it was coming for around cyl 1 - 2 or timing belt, it was intermitent at a fast pace, like metal hitting.

Top end of engine - lifter tap (not likely to sound like metal clacking)

Bottom end of engine - rod knock (more likely to sound like small blocks of wood clapping together very quickly, or like metal hitting a solid object quickly... clack clack clack clack noise, can also be accompanied by growling/grinding noise and/or "jackhammer" noise.)

If it's the first thing, take the valve covers off and adjust the rockers as per the FSM.

If it's the second thing, get an engine form a junkyard, then teach yourself how to rebuild the one in the van, for when/if the junkyard engine goes.

distributor shaft is good, could it be the pcm or crankshaft sensor or ???

I will do what you said i'm buying an other engine to rebuild 150k on it, beside the usual all oils, all filters, all belts, water pump, what else should i change on the motor and the front wheel drive.
Thank you in advance.

Bearings, rings, check all components for obvious/major wear and conformance to specs.

Maybe valve guide seals too, which will require a special valve removal tool to compress the high tension springs. You can rent (read: borrow) any tool you can think of just about from AutoZone, they charge you up front and you get a refund when you bring it back.

Alternatively, you can keep the rented tool, but it's often used, and they often charge more than a comparable "off the shelf" tool would cost for the rental.. best you just return it and get a new one, most times.