Alternator Replacement '00 Intrigue - here's how

After suffering with the known TSB issue of the headlights dimming, interior lights dimming, and blower fan decreasing speed, I decided it was time to change the alternator and eliminate the troublesome annoyance completely.

$189 for a new alternator at the major retail shops, plus core. Fortunately, I found someone who got me his shop price of $129. I had no idea what was in store for me. Here's the short version, or a general outline if you will:

Remove fender support struts, both sides
Disconnect and remove battery
Remove battery tray
Drain coolant
Remove upper radiator hose
Remove lower radiator hose
Remove thermostat
Move to driver's side ...
Remove front motor mount strut
Remove front motor mount from frame
Remove air intake
Remove entire airbox assembly
Disconnect cooling fan wiring harness from fans
Remove wiring harness from black plastic "tray"
Remove "tray" and set aside
Relocate PCM to extent of slack in the now free wiring harness
Remove dual cooling fan assembly
(You may have to remove additional cooling line to access passenger side bolt of cooling fan. *DO NOT DROP THE ORANGE WASHER* If you drop the orange washer, it will land under the radiator and you'll have to pull the radiator out to get it. Been there, done that.)
Unplug alternator
Disconnect BAT terminal
Remove 2 bolts on side of alternator
Remove idler pulley (that bolt is the 3rd bolt of the alternator)
Catch alternator before it falls.


Installation --

Connect the BAT terminal
Have a helper hold alternator flush with the block and install the idler pulley enough to support the alternator.
Have helper continue to hold alternator while you install the 2 side bolts of alternator until almost snug.
Tighen idler pulley, then tighten the 2 side bolts.

Helper can now go enjoy beer and laughing at you while you complete the install.

When installing the thermostat housing, make sure to seal the threads. Otherwise, coolant will walk up the threads and leak.

Book time is 1.3 hours labor. Don't believe it.

Good post !

Is it really necessary to dismantle the cooling system?

Here are the steps straight out of a repair manual (looks like rncotton is right on):

Removal & Installation
3.5L Engine
To Remove:

Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables.
Remove the battery from the vehicle.
Remove the battery tray using the following procedure:
Remove the four battery tray bolts.
Remove the battery tray from the vehicle.
Remove the serpentine drive belt.
Remove the cooling fan assembly using the following procedure:
Remove the wishbone-shaped engine mount strut by removing the bolts and nuts at the engine mount bracket and on the upper radiator support.
Remove the strut from the vehicle.
Disconnect the cooling fan harness from the engine wiring harness.
Reposition the wiring harness at the upper radiator support.
Remove the cooling fan shroud bolts.
Remove the right side radiator bracket.
Remove the cooling fan shroud with the electric cooling fan motors and fans as an assembly.
Remove the thermostat housing and the radiator hose using the following procedure.
Partially drain the engine coolant.
Use hose clamp pliers to remove the radiator hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the radiator hose.
Use hose clamp pliers to remove the heater hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the heater hose from the water inlet housing.
Use hose clamp pliers to remove the surge tank inlet hose clamp from the water inlet housing and disconnect the surge tank hose from the water inlet housing.
Remove the water inlet housing bolts and remove the water inlet housing.
Remove the outboard generator bolt and loosen the inboard bolt.
Remove the idler pulley bolt and idler pulley.
Unplug the electrical connector from the alternator.
Pull back the protective boot from the alternator "BAT" terminal, remove the nut and disconnect the heavy "BAT" wire from the alternator terminal stud.
Remove the alternator from the vehicle.

Alternator mounting (3.5L engine)




To Install:

Position the alternator to the engine.
Plug in the electrical connectors and install the heavy "BAT" wire to the alternator terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Press the protective boot back in place over the stud terminal and nut assembly.
Install the outboard alternator bolt into the alternator housing.
Install the inboard alternator bolt and then finger-tighten the outboard bolt.
Install the idler pulley and idler pulley bolt.
Tighten the bolts in the following torque sequence:
Tighten the idler pulley bolt to 37 ft lbs. (50 Nm).
Tighten the alternator bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and the radiator hose, observing the following:
Inspect and clean the mating surfaces on the thermostat cover and its mounting surface on the engine.
Use RTV Sealer GM #1052366 or equivalent on the mounting bolts since the threaded openings are open to the cooling system and the torque requirement is low.
Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
Connect the surge tank inlet hose to the water inlet housing.
Connect the heater hose to the water inlet housing.
Connect the radiator hose to the water inlet housing.
Install the cooling fan assembly and tighten the radiator bracket bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Plug in the wiring harness at the upper radiator support. Plug in the cooling fan wiring harness to the engine wiring harness.
Install the engine mount strut bracket to the upper radiator support first, insert the through bolt. Attach the engine side of the strut to the engine mount strut bracket on the engine and install the through bolt. Thread the nuts on the through bolts and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
Install the battery tray and tighten the bolts to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Install the battery.
Install the serpentine drive belt.
Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables.