When I got this van last year,I had the P1537&38 codes and one of the bushings were broken for the linkage,so I cobbed it up all was fine.Passed my inspection mile down the road CEL came back on.Since then went off havent had any problems till went to get inspection.Codes showed back up but no light(think light is dead).Cleared codes went back 50 miles later for reinspect and there back!Checked the usual,everything moves freely,but I read that there should be no vaccume pressure below 1350 rpms but I do.Could this be the problem?Actuator maybe?Please somebody help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was not aware that the 3.0 engine got the IMRC.
However, this is how it works on my '96 3.8L......will be same for '96 - '98.

With the engine OFF, no vaccum, springs hold the IMRC OPEN.
With the engine ON, vaccum is applied pulling the IMRC to the CLOSED position.

If these 2 situations work, then 99% sure that it is OK.

The PCM will send a signal to the IMRC vaccum control solenoid (which seems to rarely fail) to interrupt the vaccum to the IMRC causing them to OPEN at a given RPM.....I read that it may be a different RPM for different years....but the '96 is around 2900rpm.
I do NOT recommend one rev the engine to test this......but to rely on testing with engine OFF.....then start the engine and see if the IMRC pulls CLOSED.

The most common cause for the IMRC to stay open is a vaccum leak......often in ONE of the 2 IMRC actuators.
As they are both connected to the same vaccum source, 1 leaking can rob BOTH of them of the vaccum needed to open.
So, IF they don't pull CLOSED with the engine at idle, pull the vaccum line from one of the actuators and put your finger over the end of the vaccum line.
Does the other actuator pull closed?
If so.....you likely have disconnected the defective actuator.
Reconnect and pull the vaccum line from the other actuator.....finger over the vaccum line.....and see if the first actuator pulls closed.

You might get lucky and find a disconnected vaccum line....or such....otherwise you will need to buy a new actuator......which is expensive.
Someone had posted that they had issues with a aftermarket actuator not providing the correct electrical feedback......so the safe way would be to use genuine FORD/Motorcraft for the replacement.

You are right wiswind it is 3.8 got it confused with the 3.0 I had for parts that turned out useless as nothing matched anything on the 3.8. But thanks for the advice but I've come to the conclusion they are just bad.Im gonna try something else I read about though.I just need it to pass inspection so I wired them closed and cleared the codes.Let you know how it works out.Or if you know it will or wont could you let me know?

I don't know if it will work or not....certainly worth a try.
I do not think it will work if you romp on it......and get the motor RPM at 2900 or higher as it will be calling for them to open.....and they won't.

I also know that (in most states) you won't pass if you go in right after clearing the codes......there is a code (I think it is P1000) that indicates that they OBDII system has not gone through the whole test.
It takes a varying amount of time to complete the test.....the longest one to get done is the Catalytic converter (downstream oxygen sensor) test.
With my Walker after market catalytic converters.....it seemed to take a long time for mine to clear all the tests.
However.....if you clear the codes.....and the IMRC code comes back....you will know that it did not work.
Also....if you have some time....and drive the vehicle every day....I would expect that the IMRC code will clear on its own within a couple of days if the system does not detect a "problem".

Take note of the fact that the 1999 and newer windstar uses a different actuator....1 electric actuator....and it is easier to fool the way you mention.....in fact.....folks have had the IMRC links come undone.(seems more common on the 1999 and newer)....and not gotten a code......just driveability issues.
So....don't become confused with the newer version.

Yeah,Ifigured Id drive for a day or two(usually@50miles)then check the codes again.At least last year thats what I did and I was alright.We'll see.I'll let you know!I just refuse to pay $325 a oiece for them.Thats what the dealers around me quoted.