Lambchop is not Intrigued

This car....well let's not go there. 2001 Intrigue

Problem 1
Lights were flickering so had battery checked - lot's of corrosion and tested weak - battery was replaced. Got two blocks from repair shop and car died.
Mechanic diagnosed bad fuel pump.

Problem 2
Fuel pump was replaced - drove car home (about 4 miles) car died and would not start. Mechanic got car to start using WD40 in ignition switch. Diagnosed bad ignition cylinder.

Problem 3
Replaced ignition cylinder and keys - went through relearn procedures - car still won't start - only hear clicking when key is turned. Mechanic says we will need to take to dealer for diagnostics on dealer only equipment that the security system has shut down the vehicle.


Before we pay to tow to dealer - I'd like to hear what you all think. Let me know if you need any additional information. Thanks

mechanics often diagnose a bad ignition as a bad fuel pump:shakehead....Is your "security light" on? If so you will have to wait a certain period of time with the vehicle in the "on" position until that light goes out, and i think its about 10 minutes :screwy:.

I think the problem is your mechanic...

It was likely the ignition switch all along, and all he needed to do was replace the switch. Replacing the key was just asking for passlock problems.

Here is the passlock learn procedure:

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON. The vehicle will not start.
3. Observe the SECURITY light, after approximately 10 minutes the light will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes.
6. The fourth time the engine is cranked, it should start and run.

I think the problem is your mechanic...

It was likely the ignition switch all along, and all he needed to do was replace the switch. Replacing the key was just asking for passlock problems.

Here is the passlock learn procedure:

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON. The vehicle will not start.
3. Observe the SECURITY light, after approximately 10 minutes the light will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes.
6. The fourth time the engine is cranked, it should start and run.


Thanks for the reply - The mechanic says he performed the passlock learn procedure (he described what you posted) and that the car now will only make clicking noises when he tries to start it. The security light is burning steady and the check engine light is burning steady also but that he doesn't get any codes.

The mechanic is the one recommending the dealership.

I went through this myself but it was my optima red battery at 8V I drained using accessories to long so I charged it up and all problems went away lights except one the security light so I replaced the ignition switch, Problem came back almost a year later so I took it out and cleaned it. My passlock is good still so im not disabling passlock I still can’t find the right series of resistors and I don't want to do it until I have them. I sort of see why he changed it because its one piece with the ignition lock cylinder but he changed the wrong part when he was at it.

Sorry for your trouble maybe your car problems led you to this forum

I haven't heard of fuel pump failure here yet

DIY is what were about here don't be scared it’s your car and your money and tools are cheaper than a mechanic's labor

I have to say the intrigue drivers here probably know more than the common mechanic on these issues

Do you have to use 2 keys for the car not counting the keyless entry, now if so I'd want the old one back?

We will have to use two keys a this point - one for the ignition and one for the doors and trunk - we also have the remotes.

I keep thinking that this is more of a security issue at this minute due to the no start after the relearn. The thoughts about sending to the dealer are that hard codes may have been sent to the ECM that only the dealer can clear since they have diagnostic software that John Q Public mechanic doesn't.

Are you saying you think the ignition switch is part of the problem as well as the cylinder? The mechanic and I discussed that possibility but he tried the cylinder first. The old cylinder was really loose and I suspect it was part of the problem, so I'm not unhappy with putting it in, just wondering if the ignition switch needs to be replaced as well. We already have discussed that maybe the fuel pump was a mis- diagnosis. I don't want to cry over spilled milk, but would like to avoid knocking the glass over again if possible.

If "Ruby" that's the Intrigue's color and name, would just start is it possible that a better diagnosis could be made via diagnostic equipment instead of all the incomplete lines on the printout? The estimated cost for the trip to the dealer including towing and the diagnostic is $150.00

Compared to the cost of the work already done....with no start.... it seems a reasonable amount - if it's not something that can be done on my own. The whole point in DIY is to save $$ for sure, but there are some things that have to be left to others with the proper equipment. Is the security re-set one of them?

Wait, all he did was replace the cylinder? You need to replace the switch, definitly.

As far as I know, there are no "hard codes" sent to the computer. The system just isn't that complex. Replace the switch, then do the learn procedure again. Hopefully, Ruby will purr like a kitten...

ALL we are trying to say is Ruby your intrigue needs a new ignition switch and if you can DIY you'll be done in 3hrs tops, not a day at the dealer. I already assume the dealer will charge 100 for a diagnostic diagnosis and 50 for tow plus the price of the ignition switch and labor this looks like a 300-375 job when done.

I went to my local JY and took the ignition switch out off a car just like mine that shares it. I know I didn't get a new one but hey if the part is small and is not new or guaranteed to work y pay just pocket that sucker.

With a cleaning and looking inside the thing it’s just conductivity through metal simple stuff. And the relearn part can be done by your self too it’s easy, the keys thats your call I personally can't question a loose lock cylinder

Thanks for the input. My gut was was leaning toward the ignition switch. This way, Ruby will have a new ignition switch and cylinder. Next off days to tackle this project will be Thursday or Friday of this week. Will post an update after that.

Ignition switch replacement is very easy, just make sure you do not loose the tiny brass/stainless buttons when detaching the electric portion from the cylinder portion. I beleive there is a posted thread here on it. If not, check www.oldsmobileforums.com (http://www.oldsmobileforums.com) It may be there. I have done this twice to my father in laws Intrigue, and knock on wood, not to mine yet!

get the alternater checked..i had he same problem..car would start up a little heavy and han drive about 2 minutes and die...i got the alternator replaced and havent had any problems since..

get the alternater checked..i had he same problem..car would start up a little heavy and han drive about 2 minutes and die...i got the alternator replaced and havent had any problems since..

I second the above, When lights are fligering it is due to the diode in the alternator is shot. The fliggering is cased due to the alternator only charges the battery every other revolution and that is what causes the fligering. This is a ver common problem. The diode costs around $5 unfortunatly you can not buy the diode so you will have to buy a rebuilt unit. They rebuild the units by replacing the diode and the bearings clean it up and there you have a rebuilt alternator. Great business to be in.