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2 issues I want to address...


ken_man_1
01-08-2009, 12:59 PM
I have a 2003 Aztek with the 3.4L and the Versatrak AWD setup. The car has AC, and the single control for the heater (not the driver side/passenger side controls). The car is a Texas original up until about 3 months ago. The problems I am having is (1) the rear end groans when turning left/right at slow speeds (and even worse when making tighter turns), and (2) the heater really doesn't work well at all.

So, just before the car makes the trip from Texas to Wisconsin, the previous owner (Inlaws...) take it to the dealership to have the "groaning" diagnosed and to see if whatever is wrong needs to be fixed. The dealership said that this is a typical noise of the Versatrak AWD vehicles, and that it is perfectly normal for them to groan. I'm just concerned that there is something underlying with the groaning issue - as I don't want to wait until it breaks to repair the issue. If anyone can tell me of a cure to this problem, I'd be grateful. I did do a search here, but the only thread I saw about it had a reply via a PM, not a public response.

Second issue of the heater not working well. I also have a 2000 S-10 Blazer, and had similar troubles with blowing cold air when the temp guage was at normal operating temps. I completely flushed the Dex-cool out of the vehicle and replaced it with green antifreeze. I do know the core was blocked because I flushed it seperately and all kinds of junk came out of it. Long story short, my Blazer will melt the dash vents.
---With that known about Dex-cool - I've gone ahead and flushed the Aztek as well. The heater core was, too, blocked. After going through all the trouble of clearing out all of the Dex-cool and replacing with standard green antifreeze, I now have hot air coming from the vents. However, the air flow seems like it's just plain weak. I get about the same amount of airflow on the #3 setting as I do the #5 setting. I learned there is an air filter inside of the airbox that is located through the glovebox. I looked there, and aparently the air filter was removed and never replaced. The only thing I can think of is pulling the blower motor and looking at the blower fins. Does anyone else have any ideas?:banghead: Is the blower motor difficult to remove and replace?

Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to be thorough with what I've checked. Thanks for looking and for any ideas!!

MagicRat
01-08-2009, 02:56 PM
If you lose blower fins, then the blower motor goes out of balance and may make a noticeable vibration.
Low air flow has been caused by misaligned, leaking or disconnected ducts.
Take a look at all the ductwork behind the dash. Make sure its all nice and tight. Use duct tape to seal any airleaks if necessary.
Also, my Jeep had debris blocking the fins on outside of the heater core, causing low airflow. I had to remove the heater core and blow it out with compressed air. The AC evaporater can also get blocked and cause the same trouble.

As for the groaning, I think you have a rear differential on the truck. Check the fluid in the diff housing. Replace it with fluid intended for positraction differentials, if necessary. If you do this, the noise may not go away immediatly, but should eventually quieten down.

Chameleon-kat
01-09-2009, 07:29 AM
For the groan issue, it may be typical but its not right and can (perhaps should is better word) be corrected. Usually it is due to either being low on fluid in rear differential (maybe because of leak) or its time for a fluid change (following correct procedure to ensure it gets completely filled).

For the lack of flow from HVAC, my son-in-law corrected a similiar problem on mine by tightening some loose mechanical parts on left (drivers side) of HVAC system under dash ( I don't believe he had to actually tear anything apart to access). There was also an early TSB (which may not be applicable to you 03) and the text of it follows:
This bulletin is being revised to correct the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-013 (Section 01 - HVAC).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a lack of sufficient air flow from the instrument panel vents when the vent mode is selected and the temperature control is at full heat. Others may comment that the volume of hot air flow from the instrument panel vents may seem to be less than the air flow from the floor ducts.

Correction

Disable the temperature sub-damper door, located inside the air conditioning module, using the following procedure:

1. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and move the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) temperature control to the full cold position.

2. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.

3. Remove the instrument panel closeout/insulator panel.

4. Remove the instrument panel compartment.

Important: The mode door actuator described below may not be found on all vehicles. The actuator removal and replacement instructions are not necessary if this actuator is not present.

5. Locate the mode door actuator on the passenger side of the HVAC module. Disconnect the actuator electrical connector. Remove the two actuator retaining screws and the mode door actuator.

6. Remove the two screws that hold the mode door actuator mounting plate to the HVAC module. Remove the plate, exposing the mode door levers underneath. Refer to the illustration above for the location of the mode door levers.

7. Locate the mode door lever, (1) in the illustration above. Remove the mode door lever by carefully lifting the lever locking tab and simultaneously prying outward at the base of the lever with a flat screwdriver. Be sure to pry as close as possible to the base of the shaft to prevent breakage of the lever.

8. With the mode lever removed, swing the temperature sub-damper door lever (2) fully up. This opens the door fully on the inside of the HVAC module.

9. The sub-damper door may vibrate or fall closed if not secured in place. To ensure that this does not happen, use a plastic tie-strap to ensure that the door is held in place.

10. Loop a tie strap through the channel of the lever. Loop the tie-strap over the upper actuator attachment boss, making sure to also get the strap over the side ribs, as the side ribs are the locating feature for the actuator backing plate. Refer to the illustration above for location of the tie strap.

11. Install the actuator mounting plate on the HVAC module. Make sure the plate is seated against the ribs on the mounting boss.

12. Install the mode door actuator onto the actuator mounting plate.

13. Start the vehicle and check the operation of the HVAC system mode doors and temperature controls.

14. Install the instrument panel compartment.

15. Install the instrument panel insulator/closeout panel


I don't like to assuem anything, but do you 'hear' a change in blower speed between the 3 and 5 setting and just don't have change in air flow?

ken_man_1
01-12-2009, 12:18 AM
Thanks for the responses. The vehicle has 95,000 miles on it - so I'll go ahead and replace the fliud. I can always tell when the wheels spin on ice because you can hear it (it groans when a wheel spins in the rear).

As far as the airflow issue - I can hear a difference in every speed on the dial from 1 through 5. I know that when I turn the heat onto defrost, it really kicks. Jst on the instrument panel vents it's very slow. I want to check that sub damper, but I don't know what the "instrument panel insulator/closeout panel" is. Do you have the pictures that the post talks about?

Again, thanks in advance. My wife and kids will appreciate a warmer vehicle. It's supposed to hit -20 in the next few days.

463
01-14-2009, 04:18 PM
Thanks for the responses. The vehicle has 95,000 miles on it - so I'll go ahead and replace the fliud. I can always tell when the wheels spin on ice because you can hear it (it groans when a wheel spins in the rear).

As far as the airflow issue - I can hear a difference in every speed on the dial from 1 through 5. I know that when I turn the heat onto defrost, it really kicks. Jst on the instrument panel vents it's very slow. I want to check that sub damper, but I don't know what the "instrument panel insulator/closeout panel" is. Do you have the pictures that the post talks about?

Again, thanks in advance. My wife and kids will appreciate a warmer vehicle. It's supposed to hit -20 in the next few days. thats pretty normal that the instrument panel vents air flow is very poor when calling for hot air. now switch it to cool with the fan on high and feal it blow. it should be good. at least with 02 vans are all like this .:naughty:

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