Xanavi Skyline R34

Hey guys, my first build report on AF!

It's the Xanavi nismo R34 with Pe and carbon decals:

The Box:

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010015.JPG

Contents:

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010016.JPG

Paints, Inctructions And Pe

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010017.JPG

Primer:

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010018.JPG

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010019.JPG

Painted with zero paints:

The wing should normaly be black but painted it with gun metal straight from the can... Don't know yet if the weels will be gun metal to, instead of black... Sugestions?

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010020.JPG

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010021.JPG

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010022.JPG

Next: clear the body with clear from a spraycan to give the decals a smooth surface to attach on. Final clear will be donewith 2K clear...

Untill next update!

Great start! Are you planning on adding trim to the windows???

Great start! Are you planning on adding trim to the windows???

It will be done in the end, because the window trims need to be in flat black... If i do then now they will become gloss.

Update time! On the last day of the year :tongue:

Decals applied, brakes and tyres finished...

The 2 red decals that go on the rear of the car are a real pain but in the end it worked uit... With a lot of sol :licka: and patience...
Only things missing is the nissan logo on the rear and the carbon decals on the windows. Next update they will be on the car.
If you see a wrinkle its just sol thats doing it's work.


http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010027.JPG
http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010028.JPG
http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010036.JPG
http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010040.JPG

Tyres and rims:
Nothing fancy, just didn't use the tyre decals... but airbrushed them.

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010034.JPG

Brakes:

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010035.JPG

And thats it! For all you guys, untill next year, happy newyear and my best wishes to all of you!

Greetz

That's a wonderful kit. Looks like you are doing a good job on it, too. I don't know how you got all those decals on so quickly.

skyline baby.. nice built

That's a wonderful kit. Looks like you are doing a good job on it, too. I don't know how you got all those decals on so quickly.

Thanx, I think i spend aprox. 5 hours on the decals... My back started to hurt, because of the constant leaning forward :uhoh: :evillol:

This is the end...

Decided to spray the 2k clear today... After a few minutes bubbels started to appear beneath the decals. Mr muscle cant remove the paint and brake fluid is'nt an option because it will eat the plastic.

Sanding is'nt an option to because the 2k layer is hard al hell...
So back in the box with it and maybe we will do something about it... Some time far away...

Sent hiroboy a mail with the pixs because i dont have an explenation for this.

-sanded the body and washed it
-primed with tamiya primer
-painted with zero paints
-cleared with ts13
-decals applied with microsol
-and then the final clearcote that ruined all the work...

Just watch:

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010107.JPG

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010108.JPG

So over and out...

That's heartbreaking and I can only begin to imagine how you feel! I've never had a problem with DOT 3 brake fluid and Tamiya plastic.

Anyway, is it possible there was still some unevaporated MicroSol under the decals?

Tell, what for a paint you use in the given work?
And where it is possible to buy it?
Thanks

That's heartbreaking and I can only begin to imagine how you feel! I've never had a problem with DOT 3 brake fluid and Tamiya plastic.

Anyway, is it possible there was still some unevaporated MicroSol under the decals?

Dont think it was the microsol... decals were aplied before newyear.. It's a mistery to me...i know, but the brake fluid dusnt eat away the clear...

Tell, what for a paint you use in the given work?
And where it is possible to buy it?
Thanks

The zero paints i've orderd from http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/
Tamiya stuff i buy from a local hobbystore...

you could turn it into a weathered car in the rain, but its a shame Clears will do this time and time again

I think the problem is the TS-13 which you used under the decals if I am following this correctly.Personally I would have shot a light coat of the 2K instead thus keeping all the clear coat the same.The bubbles could be a reaction between the TS-13 and the 2K (Zero..??) Also how long did you let the decals dry before you shot clear over them..?? I have seen this reaction before when the decals were not allowed to dry thoroughly before the clear was shot.
Don't worry about the stripping.Forget the brake fluid because it makes the plastic brittle as hell.Get some Isopropyl Alcohol from your hardware or chemist store.It works marvelously on Zero paints and clears, stripping them off cleanly in a matter of hours and with no damage to the plastic.Get a large plastic container (ice cream tub is ideal) pour in the Isopropyl alcohol place the car body in it and seal with a lid.After an hour or so you can check the body, the paint will have softened and you can scrub it away with an old toothbrush.It may take a few soaks but trust me it will come off cleanly and easily.Once done you can re-prime the body and paint it again.You just need to get some replacement decals and you're away.Hope this helps...??

Edit: Just had another thought about the bubbles.Did you wash the excess decal adhesive off before you clear coated...?? Sometimes it can cause a reaction with the clear.I always use a little warm water and some washing up liquid to remove the excess before the clear coat.

I think the problem is the TS-13 which you used under the decals if I am following this correctly.Personally I would have shot a light coat of the 2K instead thus keeping all the clear coat the same.The bubbles could be a reaction between the TS-13 and the 2K (Zero..??) Also how long did you let the decals dry before you shot clear over them..?? I have seen this reaction before when the decals were not allowed to dry thoroughly before the clear was shot.
Don't worry about the stripping.Forget the brake fluid because it makes the plastic brittle as hell.Get some Isopropyl Alcohol from your hardware or chemist store.It works marvelously on Zero paints and clears, stripping them off cleanly in a matter of hours and with no damage to the plastic.Get a large plastic container (ice cream tub is ideal) pour in the Isopropyl alcohol place the car body in it and seal with a lid.After an hour or so you can check the body, the paint will have softened and you can scrub it away with an old toothbrush.It may take a few soaks but trust me it will come off cleanly and easily.Once done you can re-prime the body and paint it again.You just need to get some replacement decals and you're away.Hope this helps...??

Edit: Just had another thought about the bubbles.Did you wash the excess decal adhesive off before you clear coated...?? Sometimes it can cause a reaction with the clear.I always use a little warm water and some washing up liquid to remove the excess before the clear coat.

Hey steve
Thanx for the post, i builded cars in the past the same way without having any strange reactions... The 2k is indeed of zero. The decals dry'd aprox 4 days before clearcote. Will get a bottle asap :smooch:
I never rub off excess decal adhesive before the clear. Will do next time... Will start the search for a replacement decal. Again thanx for the advice!

i agree with just making this into a "rain" car and all the other wet dirty effects. :)

there's always the chance to make lemonade when you're given lemons. :D

wew ive never seen anything like that one...

Bummer! It was looking good, pity about the clear.

replacement decals are on the way... the guy at my local modelstore told me it could take up tot 2 months till they arrive... So the next update for this thread will take some time :smile:

TS paints usually need 1-2 weeks to gas out. Paint is not cured after couple of days. From your posts it seems to me that you shot 2K clear some 4 days after you clearcoted the model with TS-13. The bubbles can be the gas coming out from TS-13 while curing. I also never experienced bubbles that happened to you, but some fellow modellers experienced TS-13 clear coat cracking when applied over other TS color that was not fully cured

Hi guys.

I will star the same model soon. Could you help me with some reference photos. Thank you.

I have someones, but not good.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3587/3372510705_bf0356619c.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3654/3372510323_080707c1c3.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3444/3372510533_8f9d1f4242.jpg?v=0

Sorry, cant help you... I havnt got a single one...