No Start on 93 SC2

Ok, I moved the vehicle in the garage last night(temps were single digit and the wind chill was negative 20 and below) ran fine to go in and never gave me any hint of issues. I went to hop into the vehicle to go to work today and it turned over extremely slow, then wouldn't turn at all. Found the battery to be frozen despite being in an attached garage.

Brought the battery in the house to defrost and it was only holding 9 volts and had a high resistance, sounded like I lost a cell in the battery. Got the battery replaced tonight and it turns over normal speed, but wont start. Sounds like its trying to start but doesn't take and run. Pulled the plug wires off the DIS packs to check spark and seeing a dark yellow ignition sometimes from the coils. Do I need to replace both coils and the module or can I test the module and coils before just replacing it all with money I don't have a few days before Christmas. I appreciate the time and advice in advance.

P S

The plugs are NGK, plug wires are new, CTS is a brass unit, fuel pump does run and stop at pressure,

Make sure you replaced the correct ECTS. Your car has two, so the one with the two wire connector needs to be replaced. Also the connected if there is corrosion on it.

You can check the resistance from tower to tower. However i dont know the numbers off the top of my head. I may be able to get them to you tomorrow (xmas eve) but no promises.

Remove the module wit coils attached and clean the bottom plate where it touches the tranny. Also clean the tranny where it touches the plate. You will also see metal rings where the 4 bolt head touch...these must be clean also.

Junkyard coils and ignition module would be the best way to go if you have to replace them.

Finally got some free time for the coupe over the past few days. Found the brass ECTS had seperated, taking that issue up with the parts store now. They are denying it, but I have all receipts for it. Cleaning up the area under the coils was a great help as well.

Anyhow, now it turns over but acts like its not getting compression so this weekend I hope to get time to try the marvel fix to get compression back. Now it will turn over, but not start. I can hit the gas and at about half pedal it will try to start but always dies out again.

If there is anything I am overlooking please let me know. Waiting on taxes to come back to get code scanner for the household, that should be soon but not soon enough.

Thats why i prefer the dealer ECTS :) Never heard nor had any issues with it.

Unfortunately, if that ECTS cracked then that means there could be coolant in the connector. Take a look at it to make sure its clean and corrosion free.

As i said also, make sure its the ECTS with the t-wire connector.

Try cleaning your throttle body. If its really dirty the Idle Air Control Valve gets stuck sending the wrong air/fuel ratio to the cylinders and thus no start.

One last thing....The other issue with a failing ECTS is Flooding...Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over to remove any excess fuel. Thrn replace them and start the car. OR you can hold the pedal down to the floor and turn the car over. This shuts off the injectors so that the excess fuel can be burned. Good luck!

Yes yes, there is a dealer unit in there now. I am going to spend some of this warm weather time this weekend to pull the t-body and clean it obsessively. Need to find the specs so I can check my TPS and IAC while I have that off as well. After that not sure what else to look for. But will let you know the result of this all. Working 80 hour weeks doesn't leave much time for getting my gas sipper back on the road.

Need to find the specs so I can check my TPS and IAC while I have that off as well.
you do not need any specs for the IAC and TPS. Do not clean the TPS with anything or you will mess it up. As for the IAC clean that as well. You can get some crc connector cleaner for the TPS but that is about it. Neither of those will cause a no start. High idle yes. A TPS is not a common issue but it is known to fail. From what you are describing this is not the issue. You may want to look into replacing the CPS if the coil, wires and plugs are well. Atleast the battery is taken care of. The CPS is not awfully exspensive, but its not the most fun to replace. I can get you a video of the location for it and how to replace it if you like. But as RC was saying get all the ECT stuff taken care of. It will save you a world of trouble where 90% of issues will be related to the ect if it has not been replaced.

once upon a time when my 95 sc2 had a catalytic converter. I had the same problem as you. it would try to start but wouldn't. after trying alot of the above things, one the guy's on here had me pull the o2 sensor out and try starting. fired right up. catalytic converter had came aprt and plugged the entire exhaust. took apart,knocked all the crap out and ran great.

Ok to catch everyone up on where we are now. The MMO sitting in the cylinders overnight worked, started up first try next day. Went and pulled the codes due to the SES light being on thru all of this and found 3 codes;32- MAP Sensor low; 23- MAT is too low; 43- Electronic Spark Control Failure. Theses codes come back repetitively on every start. The plugs are 3 month old NGK's and the plug wires were done at the same time.

Now previously I have had to clean the posts on one set of coils and also per RC I pulled the packs and module off cleaned the backing(desperately needed it) the car is running fine except for the throw out bearing making noise. Which was there when I bought the vehicle, and why I got it so cheap.

I'm thinking when it comes down to it I am going to have to spend some time in a few yards to replace some items that I put back together but might not be 1000% perfect. like the connector from the EGR to the pressure sensor and the tube from the valve cover to the intake tube.

Clean your throttle body and MAP sensor.