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SL1 Problem - dont really know what to say


enibracx
12-09-2008, 08:16 PM
Hi, first off, so everyone knows i am not a car person. I have a 92 Saturn SL1 1.9 sohc Automatic (i only know that because ive put so much money through advance auto parts into it). Scenario: Car has perfect oil level, transmission fluid levels, coolant and power steering. New battery, new alternator, new spark plugs, air filter, a few other things i cant remember.
Driving down the road, everything is perfectly fine and either one of two things happens (or both, whichever comes first really).
One: car engine revs like crazy when foot is put to the gas pedal (occasionally, only when driving down the road), have to put it into the 2 slot on the auto gear select. When i do that, the engine revs at a much higher level when up to 50 mph its at 4000 revs easy, consistently.
The problem happens pretty much every day of the week, some days it doesnt happen at all but its pretty regular.
Second problem i have started not too long ago, I will be driving along, just fine and then i will lose all control over the gas pedal, you cant even accelerate at this point. Ill turn off the road and when i go to do that, the steering is incredibly tight like a loss of power. Radio, Heater and lights all stay on full power when this happens and today the engine actually stalled or shut off. Car is usually fine again after i turn it off and wait 5 minutes before starting it again.

I know this is an incredibly long post but i could really use with some helpful answers if you guys have any.
Thank you for your time.

RC1488
12-09-2008, 08:33 PM
Replace your Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor with a newer Brass one. Your resin one is cracked. Your car has two sensors, replace the one with the two wire connector. 13mm deep dish socket is all that is needed. Use the search button to find a video Ive posted for this.

Clean your throttle body. Clean the Idle Air Control valve and its passages.

Define more when you say you lose control over the gas pedal. What hapenns? If you press the pedal what happens? If you leave it what happens? If you press it slightly what happens?

The other thing is that the tranny fluids should be changed every 5th oil change or about 15K -20k miles. This ensure a proper running tranny

enibracx
12-09-2008, 08:52 PM
Thank you for a response already, so quickly.

When the issue happens with losing control over the gas pedal it is pretty random. Like i will let off the gas and when i go back to accelerating the engine revs slightly and just cuts out and it keeps doing this until eventually i lose all power to steering. The lights and radio and heat keep going in this event but the car is no longer driveable. Sure is a very quick slow-down as well. If the resin temperature sensors are cracked or broken, could it say the engine is too hot and shut it down while driving? Was very curious why you suggested changing the coolant sensors to newer brass ones.

RC1488
12-09-2008, 10:48 PM
ECTS controls many sub systems of the PCM including; air/fuel ratio, Idle Air Control valve operation, idle rpms, timing, and fan power. Its very important that it be brass and working properly.

And you lose power steering bc the engine shuts off. Thus the pump no longer works that gives you power steering :)

enibracx
12-09-2008, 11:56 PM
So the whole problem with the car right now revolves around a $10 car part? Holy cow that is actually amazing. The fact of that makes me want to get into cars more now. Thank you so much for the advice, ill post here and let you know how it goes.

enibracx
12-10-2008, 10:41 PM
Alrighty, i did exactly as the video said, and i did exactly as you said with getting a brass one. Car worked fine for one trip out to walmart and the car is sitting there right now because it wont start now. The car has power and when i turn the ignition the car wants to start but just wont. Its like it has no gas or something going to the engine. No idea what to say about it, i just know im glad i had a lift home.
Any ideas?

Cat Fuzz
12-10-2008, 11:20 PM
I'll share a brain fart I had:

Your fuel injectors might be sticking open. I think that happened to my 94 recently. The thing wouldn't start and I checked for spark and fuel pressure and had both. I pulled the spark plugs and looked into the cylinders and the tops of the pistons were covered in fuel. I cranked the engine with the plugs out to clear out the excess fuel, after pulling the fuel pump relay, wiped off the plugs and re-installed. Car started right up. The weird thing for me though, it hasn't done it again.

RC1488
12-11-2008, 12:34 AM
You need to go back and check a few things.
1. Check for spark. If you do NOT have spark at the coil towers, then the CPS is bad. It is common for it to start/no start on its own with out warning. Follow this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUMGFnK29B8

(This may also be useful :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pv6wqQAmXvc)

2. If possible remove the spark plugs. Take a look at them and see what they look like. its possible that since youve been running rich they are black and will not fire the spark very well. New NGK will do well.

3. Fuel. I highly doubt this is your issue, but ill list it anyway. Put the key in the RUN position and listen for a humm. It should last 2-3 seconds. This indicates your fuel pump is running. Next, there is a valve on the fuel rail. You can press it with a small scewdrive and fuel should shoot out (its supposed to be around 38-40 psi so watch your eyes). If a decent spray comes out (not a drip) then the fuel pump is working. Sending your injectors to:http://www.witchhunter.com/ is good as they give your before and after reports.

4. Just read your original post. You say you have new plugs. What kind? NO fancy kinds. NGK Copper is what you want. Any copper plug will do though.

enibracx
12-12-2008, 03:37 PM
The old plugs were black on the top, on the gap for spark, and on the threads. Putting new plugs in actually did work, the new sensor is in, car runs and i can say it runs a lot more smoothly. Now if only i could fix the car from jumping gears while driving and occasionally the check engine light coming on and having to put the car in drive 2, i'd be set.

Thank you again for all the help you have given, you are seriously a pro at what you do. No wonder everyone comes here with their saturn troubles, they know that one such as yourself exists in the world.
Again, Thank you so much.

RC1488
12-13-2008, 12:10 AM
The old plugs were black on the top, on the gap for spark, and on the threads. Putting new plugs in actually did work, the new sensor is in, car runs and i can say it runs a lot more smoothly. Now if only i could fix the car from jumping gears while driving and occasionally the check engine light coming on and having to put the car in drive 2, i'd be set.



Put a paper clip in your car.
If possible when the light comes on , pull over and jump terminals A (the top row, right most terminal) and Terminal B which it the one to the left it on the same row.

The SES light will then flash in a certain pattern. Kind of like Morse code. Each digit is separated by a short pause and each code is separated by long pause. Write them down and bring them back here. Might help find out what the issue with the tranny is.

Also change the fluid in the tranny with filter. Thats important :)

RC1488
12-13-2008, 12:11 AM
And thanks for the compliment. But not needed. Im no pro, just another guy trying to get through college :) Much appreciated though!

enibracx
12-15-2008, 01:06 AM
I did lose full throttle control and steering power again tonight. I am pretty bent out of shape about that, considering it was fixed for a bit, car was driving great.
-- Explain how exactly to jump terminal a and b, so i dont kill myself please.

And as for the compliment, you are indeed a pro, you answer questions with ease and accuracy and you're modest too.

RC1488
12-15-2008, 10:54 AM
jump terminals A (the top row, right most terminal) and Terminal B which it the one to the left it on the same row.

The SES light will then flash in a certain pattern. Kind of like Morse code. Each digit is separated by a short pause and each code is separated by long pause.

Example. F = Flash, SP = Short Pause, LP = Long pause

F, SP, LP, F, SP , F LP = 12
This sequence will occur 3 times in a row for 1 code.
Then the next code will follow a similar sequence giving a different code. it also will give the code 3 times so you have 3 chances to write it down.
After all the codes are given three times, the first code is given again and it keeps going and going :)

You jump the terminals by pushing the paper clip into terminal A and B.

enibracx
12-21-2008, 08:43 PM
ohhhhkayyyy knock on wood here.. hopefully it doesnt happen again, we tore apart the fuel injection system, cleaned it, replaced it with better parts than those of which that already existed. Car has been fine for 4 days so far, compared to less than 2 with the engine coolant temp sensor..

Still havent gotten to the terminal jump deal, kind of scared to drive the car now :o

Anyway, Ill post updates or issues for everyone that has kept up with this thread. (i didnt forget :) promise :) )

enibracx
01-21-2009, 09:48 PM
One month, car is still running good for now. Occasionally when sitting at traffic lights the car has lower revs and gets kind of quiet, other times it will rev up on its own like ive given it some gas but other than that it still runs fine... Im obviously stupid, i still havent tried that jump the terminals deal.. i need to write it down and paste it to my dashboard or something

Again, thank you for all the help RC1488, and indeed i will keep you all updated, like i said before.

RC1488
01-21-2009, 10:14 PM
Well i suppose if thats the worst of it...you cant complain tooo much :)

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