95 SC1 Mosquito Spayer

My son owns this 95 SC1 with ~175K that is using oil at a rate of 1 quart per tank of gas (very little exhaust smoke). I suggested I could do a valve job to increase his oil mileage, which he agreed. Once completed, it runs good but makes for a great mosquito spayer. I'm assuming I made the real problem of bad rings worse. :frown: (There's more to this store, but not now)

Q1: Are bad rings the real problem, or was it a combination of both?

Q2: Can I do ring job without pulling the engine (is this advisable)?

Q3: If I do this, are there any "gotchya's"?

P.S. Yes, I also changed the timing chain while it was torn apart.

Being new to AF, I attempted to do a search on this (within the SC/SL/SW category) but couldn't really find anything relevent, something I'm not doing correctly or is it just not there?

I doubt youll find anything this deep on here :)

But...oil consumption is because of stuck oil rings, not valves. 2 options: Either do a MMO Soak (ive posted a how-to) to loosen up the oil rings or replace them all together. Many also drill holes in them (6 or 8) to help increase oil flow.

To remove the rings you need to take the timing chain off again :( You can do it all in the car no need to remove the engine. Crab a service manual and read up on what exactly needs to be done :)

Thanks RC1488, :) I might as well replace the rings since I have the car back with the head already removed. Oh Joy! :runaround:

Would you or the readers be interested in this process?

Thanks RC1488, :) I might as well replace the rings since I have the car back with the head already removed. Oh Joy! :runaround:

Would you or the readers be interested in this process?

That is up to you! A formal how-to may not be needed as its been posted elsewhere, however a Debrief of what things to look out for and tihngs you would suggest for future do-it-yourselfers is something that is extremely beneficial :)

I replaced the piston rings in my daughter's 92 SL2. I took the engine out though, along with the tranny since the tranny had the hole in the differential from a lost diff. pin. With the new rings it went from being an oil guzzler to using less than a quart in 4000 miles - which is when I do the oil change anyway. I didnt need to replace the pistons, nor even remove the ridge at the rim of the cylinder. I could still see the honing marks all the way up the cylinder wall. This engine had 128,000 miles on it at the time. I also replaced the engine bearings (though I didnt need to), and of course the oil seals on the crankshaft. I also replaced the tensioner for the timing chain. Nothing else needed changed out; not the timing chain, not the guides.
I got a tranny from a junkyard, and put that in without any fixing either. It works fine.

Thanks for the insight denisond3, When I looked at the cylinder wall, they also still have the honing marks and there's no ridge at the top. I'm going to try and knock this out this weekend.:wink:

I tore the rest of the motor apart this past weekend. I was real fun taking the oil pan off without remove the exhaust pipe (rusted on). I guess I’ll have to cut the bolts and replace them. I found all 4 oil ring sets caked in carbon and it looks as if they lost their ability to expand (probably has to do with all that carbon). I found a lot of carbon under the #2 compression ring as well. WD-40 works wonders on cleaning out carbon. I also found 1 rod bearing bad so I’ll be replacing all of them.

I did take pictures but the close-ups were blurry.:frown:

Good job. hows it run?

I'm waiting on the rod bearings, should be here today. Once I have these, I'm sure it will take a fews days to put it all back together, I'm only working on this a few hours in the evenings, no hurry. I'll post the results once completed.

Did you by chance check any of the main bearings on the crankshaft while you are this deep into a teardown?

Well, I hate to say this but I’m not even going to look at the mains. :screwy: This car has over 175K and I don’t know how much longer the rest of the car will hold out. I know I have it torn apart now but I will have to wait 3 days for main bearings (yes, I question this delay). My primary goal is to get this to stop smoking so bad and use less oil.

I put on the new rings and installed the pistons last night. I also cleaned up the timing chain and valve covers. If I get off work early, I may get this done tonight. :)

I did get it all put back together last night :smile: but now there's a fuel leak (and a dead battery) :mad: . Try again tonight.

Question: The fuel line from the filter to the rail, should there be an o-ring at the rail connection?

sometimes they use a copper crush washer

No it just clicks in. IIRC both just click in.

Well, the battery wasn't dead - it was a badly corroded negative terminal, :banghead: cleaned and now there's juice. I did slide an o-ring over the connection and it stopped the leak, no fire hazard.

First attemp to start, sputtered and backfired as if the timing was 180' out. :uhoh: Tried a couple more times with the same result. Final attempt before I was going to give up, it started - at a high RPM (but it was very smooth). I shut it off and checked everything over once more. Started it again and everything was normal and NO SMOKE.:grinyes: Only time will tell on the oil consumption but I think it will be fine.

The "Service Engine" light comes on after about 1 minute, but that's for another thread, maybe.

Tomorrow I'm taking it out to have the screw removed from a tire and then give it a bath. It's been sitting outside for about a year. My Christmas present to my son. It's better than a gift card. Now he can get rid of that FORD.:smooch:

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions.

good job! congrats!