99 jmmy current draw

In my 99 jimmy it has 12 volts of draw. I did a few test to see if it dropped, took each fuse out, took power off alternator,removed keyless/remote start,removed radio. Tryin to find what is causing the draw. It wont start after sitting for like two minutes anymore, gradually has gotten worse as it has been geting colder. Took the + off the batery, placed the - lead from DMM (meter) on positive, then took + lead from DMM and put on positve power wire that goes to car. Read -12.10, i played around on the starter trying to see if i took off its ground if it would go away, it di not. so i took starter out, still nothing. put back in and decided that i would run continuity test it was far from open, was boucing all over. Then i tried to test and see if it was grounding out between batery and starter, it was the same reading on meter at + of starter as it was at battery wire by the battery. Any ideas of what could be next. The battey under no load is at 12.00...or close to above. As soon as i put the power to the battery it drops by litterally like -.5 volts off the get. When i cranked early in the day it dropped to 5.6 and obiously didn't start the car..,..i hate not knowing what is going on, but it seem like there is something going on in the starter mech. Could the starter have short making it do this? or is an electrical Gremlin that i need to tack down??? thanks, mike

I'd test the battery- when no cables attached- should have 12.65 volts- not 12.00 and when truck running- should be 14+ volts with 5 volts when starter engaged- your battery sounds like its done for.....

Well i had a test done, battery is fine. I am beginning to think its the starter, reason being, that is the only thing i have yet to try testing. I removed the ground off it, but i found out that this will do nothing when trying to test for current because it is ran through the hot wire +. Have any of you had this problem? or might think that this could be the solution.

In my 99 jimmy it has 12 volts of draw. I did a few test to see if it dropped, took each fuse out, took power off alternator,removed keyless/remote start,removed radio. Tryin to find what is causing the draw. It wont start after sitting for like two minutes anymore, gradually has gotten worse as it has been geting colder. Took the + off the batery, placed the - lead from DMM (meter) on positive, then took + lead from DMM and put on positve power wire that goes to car. Read -12.10, i played around on the starter trying to see if i took off its ground if it would go away, it di not. so i took starter out, still nothing. put back in and decided that i would run continuity test it was far from open, was boucing all over. Then i tried to test and see if it was grounding out between batery and starter, it was the same reading on meter at + of starter as it was at battery wire by the battery. Any ideas of what could be next. The battey under no load is at 12.00...or close to above. As soon as i put the power to the battery it drops by litterally like -.5 volts off the get. When i cranked early in the day it dropped to 5.6 and obiously didn't start the car..,..i hate not knowing what is going on, but it seem like there is something going on in the starter mech. Could the starter have short making it do this? or is an electrical Gremlin that i need to tack down??? thanks, mike

As said double check the battery and battery cables.
Run a load test on battery.
Check the charging system for good charging.

If it goes dead in 2 minutes you have a bad battery or cables or a current draw out of this world.

With a full charged battery check the amp draw with a good volt/amp meter.
Post back how many amp's it is drawing before and after computer power down.

so i took my meter set the meter to Adc, 10a, completed circut, made the sound of a connection, if thats normal, then my meter read started reading -.06.. then light underhood turned on and jumped to -2.08..i assume the light turning on was the circut being completed?

also when i put the lead on the neg on the battery a nice spark was present..normal when checking draw?

so i hooked my meter up to check amp draw, it was 2.06, then i opened the door and it went to 4.8, removed courtesy light fuse, dropped to .61 amps, i pulled all the interior fuse panel fuses with no change. then i pulled all the under hood relays and fuses, no change except for the TBC fuse. it caused it to drop to .07 and then proceeded to drop even further to .02a, i put back it and in like three seconds i watched it climb back to .61 amps. I repeated with same exact results. what is that, throttle body sensor?

TBC fuse is your Truck Body Control fuse-- or commonly referred to as your BCM Body Control Module......

As said TBC fuse is for the Body control module BCM but also the and remote door lock reciever and multi function switch flash to pass switch is on the same fuse/circuit.
All 3 on same fuse.
You will have to seperate the circuits to find which one is drawing the amps.
But always let the modules power down before final check .
Sometimes up to 20-30 minutes power down with key off.

In your first post you said it would not startbafter setting 2 minutes.
Is that killing battery in 2 minutes?
If so your have a real bad battery drain or a dead short if battery is up and good.
Over 2 amps draw will drain battery dead setting but will take some time like 12-24 hrs with a good battery.
Like dome light left on 4-5 hrs or over night.

On amp draw testings.
As has been mentioned, 0.260 is way too much-that's 260 milliamps-should be no more than 25 milliamps, or 0.025 amps.

Make sure your volt/amp meter is set is down on milliamps DC.
Let us know how it goes.

With a full charged good battery how long does it take battery to go dead?
Good Luck

well i had my interstate batt replaced at no charge by them...well see if that solves it...