I just picked up a used 2007 2500 4x4 with the Duramax 6.6L diesel.

I thought I had done my research and found a good deal on the truck I wanted, but as I learn more I am wondering if I might have made a mistake.

The first thing I ran across in further searching today that gets my concern is that there is a potential for the transfer case to devlope a leak and total the transfer case. This bothers the heck out of me. The resource I read says GMs fix is to slap a bit of epoxy over the hole. Is this something I need to take a proactive approach to repairing? The truck is a 2007, but it has enough miles that it is no longer under warranty.

Passenger side mirrors have developed an erratic action when adjusting. Am I going to need to pony up for some new actuator motors right away?

When I test drove the truck it drove perfectly, but in the last couple days it has developed a surging feel in the brakes that feels like a brake grabbing or maybe a warped rotor. ACK! It seems odd that could have developed in just a couple days unless it was always there, and the dealer just backed off the brakes so it was not as noticeable. I'm gonna pull some wheels and break out my dial indicator later today.

AND... The main reason I started doing more research on-line today. I am only getting 14 miles per gallon out of it. A buddy of mine said he runs a fuel additive in his 2008 (same truck) and gets about 17-18, and that he was only getting 14 before he started running the additive. I have no clue what it is that he is running in his truck, so I started out to try and figure out what it is, and just found hundreds of pages of what look like snake oil products to me.

the transfercase requires frequent fluid replacing...this is a work truck and if used as such I would replace this fluid every 20,ooomi and every oil change check for contaimination..

the other fluids must be replaced often as well, the front and rear diff needs inspection and replacement when fluid is not the correct color..
on you rear diff make sure the cover is removed this is important as the magnet MUST be cleaned...

on your mirrors,,,,these control switches are very suseptible to contaimination...I have cleaned these twice and then the mirrors work like new...they come apart with not too much difficulty...no chemicals just a clean cloth to wipe the pad contacts...its basicly a tv remote ...

your engine is not my area of knowledge...

I have 2007 duramax and I love it. My tuck's fuel milage didn't come around until 20 k. When I drove it home from the dealer it was about 10 mpg and I thought what have I done. I also found that not using the 50ppm ultral low sulfur diesel would cause me to loose 4 to 5 mpg. On long trip I get 18.5 mpg and intown driving I get 14 to 16 mpg.I service and repair all makes of diesel pickups in my shop and the late model chevrolets are the most reliable. The majority of repairs are maintance items. Ford has many issues with injectors and dodge has issued with high pressure pump.

The cummins wil last up to a million miles before a rebuild is done.The Ford 6.0 power stoke is a big,big POS.Jasper found problems with the 6.0 powerstroke and put tons of upgrades in them in the first year 6.0s:Upgraded pistons,injectors and the injector wiring harness,upgraded turbocharger and many more.The 6.4 was put on recall,flames coming out of the exhaust.My Uncle Steve had one,had the recal done and did not fix it at all.If you want transmission problems,Ford!I know a transmission shop that has headaches working on Ford electronic transmissions and are the worst to diagnose.My father and I will not work on one knowing of this.The powerstoke exhaust stinks and you have to keep the garage door open.Do not ever let a powerstroke sit and idle in park because they are not ment to let sitting idling in park.

the transfercase requires frequent fluid replacing...this is a work truck and if used as such I would replace this fluid every 20,ooomi and every oil change check for contaimination..

Ah, you answered my question from the other thread.

the other fluids must be replaced often as well, the front and rear diff needs inspection and replacement when fluid is not the correct color..
on you rear diff make sure the cover is removed this is important as the magnet MUST be cleaned...

Will make a note of that.

on your mirrors,,,,these control switches are very suseptible to contaimination...I have cleaned these twice and then the mirrors work like new...they come apart with not too much difficulty...no chemicals just a clean cloth to wipe the pad contacts...its basicly a tv remote ...

What if one mirror works perfectly , but the other one is flaky?

your engine is not my area of knowledge...

Thanks. Sorry about the multiple user names. My old ones seem to quit working. They are there, but I can not logon on and I never get the e-mail for the pasword recovery.

I just picked up a used 2007 2500 4x4 with the Duramax 6.6L diesel.

<SNIP>

When I test drove the truck it drove perfectly, but in the last couple days it has developed a surging feel in the brakes that feels like a brake grabbing or maybe a warped rotor. ACK! It seems odd that could have developed in just a couple days unless it was always there, and the dealer just backed off the brakes so it was not as noticeable. I'm gonna pull some wheels and break out my dial indicator later today.

I spun the fronts and rears with my dial indicator sitting on them. The fronts are fine, but the rears are warped. I already picked up a new set of rotors and pads for the rear, but I have two questions.

1. What is the easiest way to get those little locking rings off the studs without breaking them.

2. What is the best way to compress the calipers? Before ABS we would just compress the cylinder with a C-Clamp and let the fluid back up into the reservoir on the master cylinder. I have been told that can damage the ABS mechanisms. On the last truck I did I opened the bleeder on the caliper and let the excess fluid flow out the bleeder into a cup. The pain is that I do this sort of stuff by myself and its a pain to rebleed the brakes by yourself.

Open up the bleeder valve on the caliper then compress the piston on the caliper then close the bleeder valve.

What about the rings on the studs?

What about the rings on the studs?

Unless you're going to take the time to loosen these rings by hand to get them off, take a pair of sidecutters and cut them off. They're there from the factory to aid in assembly. The entire time I worked for Chevrolet (heavy line tech), I never once re-installed them or found replacements. Not a big deal.

How many miles on your truck? As for mileage, there's an unbelievable amount of power enhancers available that will increase mileage, up to a point. I had an '02 Dodge Cummins that got 18pmg until I installed an Edge Comp box. I used relatively mild levels that wouldn't blow out my clutch and could routinely get 21-24mpg. Just a thought...