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Cam and Crank sensors


olds409
11-19-2008, 01:02 AM
Someone please help.
My 2000 intrigue will not start.Turn key nothing happens.No crank.
Im getting 2 faults Cam and Crank sensor circuit malfunction. i replaced the ignition switch,now what?:runaround:

Mickey#1
11-19-2008, 08:24 AM
Cam & crank sensors have nothing to do with the starter cranking over the engine.

Check all of the fuses & see if you're getting 12 volts to the small wire on the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start.

Mickey#1
11-19-2008, 08:44 AM
Hold on - did the 2000 have the 3.8 or 3.5? If it's the 3.5 then ignore the above post. PM me with an email address & I'll send you a wiring diagram of the starting circuit.

dtownfb
11-19-2008, 09:51 AM
The 2000 Intrigues all had the 3.5L engine. The 1999 model year started off with the 3.8 and then switched to the 3.5L.

Mickey#1
11-19-2008, 10:39 AM
Was 99 the last year with the 3.8 or did they bring it back again?

So it looks like the crank sensor is part of the starting circuit on the 3.5. I'd still check fuses & see if you're getting 12 volts at the starter solenoid. You can also try starting in neutral.

Hopefully someone can explain how the PCM uses the crank signal for starting.

LittleHoov
11-19-2008, 04:38 PM
What kind of shape is the battery in? Whens the last time the battery cables were removed and cleaned?

olds409
11-21-2008, 08:29 AM
Battery is 1.5 years old ALL cables and terminals clean

olds409
11-26-2008, 06:15 AM
Hey Mickey,
Do you know of anybody doing a PCM reflash,and if it worked?

olds409
11-26-2008, 06:17 AM
Hey Littlehoov
Where did you get the high-flo cat?

LittleHoov
11-26-2008, 07:10 AM
I got it off Ebay. I shouldve bought the Magnaflow, but I ended up with the el cheapo.

The magnaflow/car sound units still run about 60-65 bucks shipped off Ebay. You would have to measure the piping on your car and get a model to fit. Go with a small bodied-round one, because the oval shaped one I got the first time around did not fit.

After that we pieced together appropriate reducers and attachments to get back down to the regular piping size. I say that because the size of the downpipe on the 3.5 is an illusion. What you see is actually almost a double-walled heat shield, with the actual pipe inside quite a bit smaller. I dont know the sizing on it, I was just watching the installer put the cat in and he showed me how it was set up.

I cant say I noticed a tremendous difference after the cat and u-bend removal, but I sure felt better. It seemed peppier after I installed the intake though, but I did that after the exhaust work, so maybe they helped each other out.

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