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2 Problems w/00 Blazer


Blazin1
11-13-2008, 01:38 PM
1. My rear hatch glass is stuck closed.

2. My AC and Heater only seem to work on the last power settig (4)

3. Even with the heater off there seems to be hot air coming out from the air ducts, mostly at the feet.

I have read some old threads and have questions for the people who wrote them but they are SUPER OLD and don't know if these people are still on here, besides they always say to refrain (I think thats how it's spelled) from posting on OLD threads.

You guys were very helful with my "wierd hessitation" thread. I hope you guys can help me out with this one. Thanks in advance.

BTW its a 2000 2dr 2wd Blazer

MT-2500
11-13-2008, 01:50 PM
Check the blower motor resistor.

brcidd
11-13-2008, 01:56 PM
Your high speed blower motor relay is probably inop-- trace purple wire back from your blower motor to relay which hangs on firewall behind engine--or just find the relay on firewall with the big purple wire in the connector- then jumper 87a to 87 and see if lower speeds now work--

If one or more of lower speeds worked- I would tell you to replace the blower motor resistor- but you state it only works on "high" which is the relay not enabling its normally closed contacts- so replacement is the most likely solution.

It is normal for air to flow due to vehicle movement- without blower motor on.

fuzzbutt
11-13-2008, 02:00 PM
I don't know about some of your issues but I can tell you that issue #3 the "hot air" in off setting is normal. For reasons unknown to the average guy the "off" setting is not really "off". Ya the fan does not spin but the air still moves thru the truck and across the heater coil. So when your blend door actuator is broke and stuck on hot there is no relief short of opening the windows or blocking coolant flow to the heater core.

#2 might be a bad control head. The switch might be bad. Pull the dash cover and unscrew the controls. Pull the wire off the back of the switch and using your Ohm meter try the different fan settings.

On mine when your looking at the 5 blades coming off the switch the lower left corner is the common. Position 1 is the bottom right blade. Position 2 is the right middle blade. Position 3 is the upper right blade. Position 4 is the upper right blade. There should be no resistance between the common and each respective blade when at that blades selected position.

Blazin1
11-13-2008, 02:42 PM
First off sorry about the 2 posts it was supposed to be 3 problems. I dont know how to delete the second one.

Ok thanks for the suggestions but can someone tell me where the resistor is located? Im not too mechanically enclined..... but im not affraid of a challenge as long as I have some help.

MT-2500
11-13-2008, 04:46 PM
Automatic or manual controls.
Manual controls look right rear engine compartment on blower motor module.

Blazin1
11-13-2008, 07:28 PM
Im guessing manual. Do I have to take off that black cover?

Blazin1
11-19-2008, 10:30 AM
I found out why my glass was stuck closed..... it's a plastic part that breaks off, this part hooks up to the actuator and it releases the glass. this problem is more common than I thought. I did my research through old threads on this forum and from another forum ( I wont mention names....unless it's ok) and I finnally got it opened yesterday. Chevy doesn't want us to know but Dorman makes a replacement "plastic" part that costs $5 USD for those on a budget or you can go buy the Dealership actuator that costs around $85 USD. The "plastic" part on the new dealership actuator has been replaced by a "metal" one. The HARD part is taking the FREAKIN panel off with glass closed. As soon as I replace the part I will ad a thread on how I did it.

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