Okay I'm starting this job: my driver's side shock/strut is/was leaking fluid, and the ride in this car is awful -

(1) At least one rear strut appears blown, (the p.side looks dry), and

(2) two front springs are broken (low down)...probably not helping ride.


a) opening the boxes (Munroe struts) you get the shock/strut, one large nut for top, and one bolt (no nuts) for bottom.

This already is a bad start. I should get all new bolts and nuts. I am not sure why they don't pack at least two bolts for the bottom, and nuts to go on too. And new bolts for the top plate would be good too. Pretty cheap of them, considering this is a $80 part/kit!

b) Next, I'm supposed to somehow twist/turn the shock shaft in this gas-loaded thing, to release(?) it and then I should be able to pull it out (or will it hit me in the face?). They are shipped with the shaft shoved in and locked for some stupid reason, not in condition to actually install.

c) Finally, its not exactly clear how I'm supposed to support the spring/rear wheel holder thing while removing and replacing this shock thing. I'll do some pictures, but I'd really like any helpful comments or instructions anyone can send me for this job.

I did the caliper on this side, but this strut thing looks like it might have problems similar to those I encountered doing the TIE ROD ENDS (there I broke a fork trying to remove one).

I found the following TIPS page on the Monroe Shock Absorber site.

http://www.eu.tenneco-automotive.com/monroe/dos/donts.htm




3. Tools

Never grip or damage the polished piston rod with pliers or other tools-this can damage the rod seal, leading to oil leakage. 5. Prime the shock absorber

Always prime the shock absorber by pulling and pushing the piston rod in and out several times before installation-this must be done with the shock absorber in the same position it will be in when installed under the vehicle (normally vertical). Well I'm glad I read this (above). Its not written on the installation sheet included with the Munroe strut!

I will tell of my experience with the strut:

I was able to use a pair of pliers and grab hold of the shaft above the polished steel, but below the threads on top (there is a slight indent and 'rough patch between threads and smooth shaft).

Turning the shaft counterclockwise about a 1/4 turn indeed unlocked the thing and it slowly climbed upward. I held the strut vertical and pushed it back in again by hand and let it out again several times to 'prime' it. It seemed to get quieter as I continued.

I was able (with some serious force) to restore the shaft completely and re-turn it clockwise to lock it shut again in the down-position (I'm not ready to install it yet, as I want to see how removing the old one goes, and what parts I may need to replace).


For my vehicle, the Monroe shocks are called "Gas-Matic series" on the box. I suspect they are NOT the latest "Sensa-Trac", even though they seemed to be listed as such in the CanTire computer. I'm going to check into this.

The part number on the box is:

SEALED STRUT
MONROE
GAS-MATIC SERIES
Gas charged replacement strut
81831GM
22-5371-4
(bar code here)
0 48598 02736 8
DC 08210 made in USA


The "Sensa-Trac" are the ones that are supposed to be the most comfortable car ride.
http://www.eu.tenneco-automotive.com/monroe/sensa_trac.htm

Well, this is going to prove entertaining. I hope there aren't too many snags.

Here's a graphic from Monroe on the shock value of pumping a young strut.

The boys at the parts counter tried to sell me the plastic cover and spongy washer (for $38 apiece). But since the car ran for 14 years without it, and my wife drives calmly, I wonder if I need one.

What really interests me is the thing for the bottom end of the strut, some kind of thing that apparently makes setting the CAMBER easy.

If anyone understands this device and how it works, I'd really like to hear about it.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/m7ds6po0iam88hj80753.jpg

Here's a look at the top of the strut/shock shaft.

You can see where there is a spot you can grab the shaft (not the polished part that goes in and out of the case) to turn it.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/ohv0vdxx6etybkt41yp8.jpg

However, after looking at the Monroe warrantee warnings for mechanics and installers, I noticed there is actually a hex-key hole in the end, and a special tool to turn the shaft or hold it while you turn the big nut that screws on top:

http://www.qzoka.com/images/9w3k026o7qy9ci5pwgq.jpg

This (after some lengthy experimenting) turns out to be a 1/4" hex key (although this is in fact just a bit loose). No metric key I have will fit this. It could be somewhere between a CRW-7 and and CRW-8 (7.5mm?).

But a hex key isn't strong enough to hold the shaft for serious tightening (74 ft-lbs / 100 N-m is recommended by Monroe install guide for the top nut).

After unsuccessfully trying to remove the old top nut and mounting bracket while the old strut was still mounted on the car (with a hex-key and vise-grips), I gave up and decided to attach the mounting brackets on the new strut in a vise on my bench, and skip the hex-key shenanegans.

Here's a shot of the leaking old strut.

Not only is the rubber boot wet all the way round, but the shaft underneath is also soaked, and covered with dirt stuck to the shock-oil.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/jakl726lwykboithikw.jpg

I was a little unsure of how exactly to jack up and support the car for this job.

I settled on a main stand ahead of the rear wheel (see below). It sits on the unibody frame under the doors.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/8r0t1fqqffdmylq1x7dn.jpg


The spring extends when the wheel is pulled off.

But to have some extra support I also put a jack under the wheel piece (see second photo here below):

http://www.qzoka.com/images/nr50r42e4tu9p4h97apr.jpg

I loosened off the bolts holding the top end on.

The first (front) bolt cracked loose and undid with no problem.

I used a 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet with 3" extension, and a pipe on the end to get enough torque.

The second bolt was the problem...

This bolt felt like it was stripping (the head I mean), but it turned out that the threads in the hole were what stripped (probably the hardened bolt was not in danger).

When I had to put it back I noticed that this bolt kept turning...uh oh.

I am envisioning putting a nut on the top from inside the trunk to make this bolt function again. It seems pointless to re-thread and put in a larger bolt. There is a top plate, but I think it is welded to the frame....(anyone know how to deal with this?)

http://www.qzoka.com/images/zvo1l3oql21ums7vm60.jpg

I am glad I had a jack under the wheel. Because after removing the bolts, the top was still firmly stuck up there.

So I jacked up the strut from the bottom, and this compressed the shock absorber and then when I let the jack down again, it came away from the frame as shown.

Note that the top bracket is very rusted. I am thinking I may need the top bracket kit too. Any comments?

Once I got the top loose, I turned to the bottom bolts. (At this time I didn't know one top bolt-hole was stripped).

http://www.qzoka.com/images/pd4h2iday0ekqs19rkel.jpg

I should mention that I had to unplug the ABS brake cable seen here to get at the lower nut clearly. I used a flat screwdriver to help unhook it. Don't forget to hook it back up when you are done.

Here I had to use a 24mm spanner to loosen the upper bottom bolt nut (see arrows). I got enough torque by using a second wrench as a prybar.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/ar28st548sbtoc36o.jpg

However, the lower bottom nut is a major problem.

The only way to loosen it is with a 24mm DEEP socket. I had a normal socket, but nothing that large in a long socket. I was beat.

I had to put everything back so I could drive to the store and get a 24mm long socket. Thats when I discovered that one top bolt-hole was stripped.

Also, I don't think I'm ready to remove the strut quite yet:

There is another little snag. There is no explanation for how to set the CAMBER of this thing, although there are hints that it has to do with the upper bottom bolt (see the Monroe pictures).

But now I have looked at the big bolts holding the bottom end on, and guess what! There is no NORMAL Bolt Head, but a stupid open-end design, that prevents you from using a ratchet on these babies!

Does anyone know how to get these bolts out, and how to adjust CAMBER, if necessary?

Here's a pic of the BOLT HEADS for the bottom end:

http://www.qzoka.com/images/i5eehfgu5vh2tl4f2c2v.jpg


How am I supposed to mark out the CAMBER or adjust it with bolts like these?

I have to admit I don't quite understand the 'system' here.

I found an exploded view of the rear strut and instructions here, but they don't seem to be of much help.

No indication of how to adjust CAMBER for instance, or even how to remove these bolts.

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1955202/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800681ba

Hmmm... The instructions for the removal / installation of the rear fibreglass transverse spring (for the "W" body car like mine) warns thus:

CAUTION
Do NOT disconnect any rear suspension components until the transverse spring has been compressed using a rear spring compressor tool J-35778 or equivalent. Failure to follow this procedure may result in personal injury. Wear protective eye equipment when working on the suspension.


This may only be strictly true for removing the spring, but perhaps its good I didn't yet pull those lower bolts...he heh.


Of course, the tool they suggest here can be found online for the modest price of $973.95 (plus tax and shipping)...
http://www.etoolcart.com/gmrearleafspringcompressor-j35778.aspx

http://www.etoolcart.com/ProductImages/generalmotors/OTCJ35778-L.jpg

Well, thats a bit expensive for a home strut-swap I intend to do only once or twice in a lifetime.

Which leads to: the "or equivalent" phrase...Can I make my own spring-compressor/retainer, perhaps a modest clamp, or a clever use of a floor jack?

Could a pair of these do for instance?

http://www.etoolcart.com/ProductImages/otc/J22517-C.jpg

Can anyone tell me how to perform the equivalent of a $1,000 clamp? Obviously most shops don't buy tools like this.

..

UPDATE:

So I traded back in my set of impact sockets (on sale) for a single 24mm long socket in order to be able to get off the nuts on the lower bolts.

But seriously guys,

isnt there ANYONE out there who has at least replaced a rear strut in a transverse spring Lumina ('w' body?)?

I mean about a half-dozen GM models must have this style spring and component, at least for several years running!

So please, somebody: can I remove this rear strut or not, without having to have a $1,000 spring compressor tool?

One of you experts must know how to do this.

And why can't I find clear instructions for setting the camber on the rear suspension for this vehicle? What is it, a trade secret?

Yes, with your jack under the rear trailing arm, remove those rear bolts. Really, since you have the strut plate (which you should replace!) loose from the car the spring is free to release its energy already. So, when you remove the rear bolts, the suspension isn't going to move any further. You'll probably need to lower the jack slowly though in order to make room to get the strut assembly out and the new one in. You'll probably need a drift/punch to get the lower bolts out of the knuckle as well. I've never seen a replacement strut ship with any of the mounting hardware. Once in a while they will ship with a new bolt for the brake line supports when that support is part of the strut assembly.

Use your ratchet on the nut side and an open end wrench on the bolt head side. If the bolts are spinning in the strut, then the open end wrench will wedge up against something while you're turning it so you can focus your effort on the ratchet.

That hex end in the shock shaft is there to help you release the shaft when locked in the "shipping" compressed position as well. No need to get on the shaft with a pliers.

The reason there's no instruction on how to set the camber is because you need an alignment system to do that properly. When you get the old strut off, you'll be able to see roughly where the original strut rested. You install the new strut so that you line up with the dirt/corrosion marks, then drive to your favorite alignment shop and have a 4-wheel alignment performed.

-Rod

u need to pound those bolts out, there serrated.

Yes, with your jack under the rear trailing arm, remove those rear bolts. Really, since you have the strut plate (which you should replace!) loose from the car the spring is free to release its energy already. So, when you remove the rear bolts, the suspension isn't going to move any further.



Awesome! Thanks Rod, for an excellent, thorough, and brief reply.

Your explanation encourages me to have another go at this annoying problem.



That hex end in the shock shaft is there to help you release the shaft when locked in the "shipping" compressed position as well. No need to get on the shaft with a pliers.

Yep. I figured this out after using pliers on the shaft (not the polished area thank God.


You'll probably need a drift/punch to get the lower bolts out of the knuckle as well.

I found a definition for a drift/punch here. (keep in mind that other DIYers like me may not know the meaning or usage of tools common to a mechanic or other trade).

http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14256/css/14256_181.htm

The internet is an amazing internet tool for things like this.



I've never seen a replacement strut ship with any of the mounting hardware. Once in a while they will ship with a new bolt for the brake line supports when that support is part of the strut assembly.


Hmmm. the bolt they shipped with the unit is too large for a brakeline bracket, and too small for the lower support bolts. Its still a mystery where that goes! I hope it isn't important...


Use your ratchet on the nut side and an open end wrench on the bolt head side. If the bolts are spinning in the strut, then the open end wrench will wedge up against something while you're turning it so you can focus your effort on the ratchet.


I'm going to try an extra large Johnson Bar here, because I found that even after the nuts are loosened, they are incredibly hard to turn. I think they must use "Lock-nut" compound on these babies. Should I do that too when reinstalling them?



I will begin again.

One thing I need to solve before reinstalling is how to fix the stripped thread on the back upper retaining bolts. I can access the tops of them through the trunk, and I was thinking of a lock-washer/nut on top there to hold the back bolt from falling out (and supporting adequately the top end of the strut). What do you think?



You'll probably need to lower the jack slowly though in order to make room to get the strut assembly out and the new one in.


Thanks for the heads up on that.



The reason there's no instruction on how to set the camber is because you need an alignment system to do that properly. When you get the old strut off, you'll be able to see roughly where the original strut rested. You install the new strut so that you line up with the dirt/corrosion marks, then drive to your favorite alignment shop and have a 4-wheel alignment performed.

-Rod



...saddening but not surprising that somehow I still have to report to a garage with expensive tools to actually finish. Will I have saved any money?

I hope so. But at least the experience is priceless.

One final question:

Would it be wise at this time to replace the wheel bearing/hub assembly? I understand they are sealed and can't be serviced.

This would then mean the hub, caliper, and strut would all be new.

(I will probably grab the upper bracket kit too for new bolts, bracket and rubber).

What do you think about the sponge/boot cover Monroe is selling for about $50? It is supposed to protect and add to the life of the strut/shocks.

Okay here comes Rear Strutting Part II:

I took out the upper bolts again, and broke loose the lower nuts with a giant Johnson Bar and some Liquid Wrench and 3 in 1 oil. Then I finished removing them with a ratchet/extension.

Then I tried to turn the bolts themselves with an adjustable wrench on the bolt heads. This was a waste of time, and the reason why is shown in the following photo:

http://www.qzoka.com/images/h2dfm4rtiqch8x8npin.jpg

You can see the 'serrations' in the shaft of the bolt in the enlarged inset. Obviously these bolts aren't going to do much turning.

The arrow on the larger lower hole shows most of the CAMBER adjustment apparently takes place on the lower bolt.



Next, I tried using a variety of smaller bolts as 'punches' to knock out the bolts, without damaging the threads. This was difficult but didn't take as long as I thought, using a sledge hammer (not much room to swing in there).

Here's another look at how I was supporting the car and rear suspension, with a new floor jack under the knuckle.


http://www.qzoka.com/images/nodi2v66hilhbwe8ui.jpg

Once the nuts were off, I pried off the bracket that holds the stabilizer-bar. After this, the stabilizer-bar now pinned the upper bolt, so I used a couple of c-clamps to hold it back out of the way (see next pic below):

http://www.qzoka.com/images/8gft6x41tmfrj7ky93o.jpg

Once the lower bolts were knocked out, it was fairly easy to get the old strut out of the car.

The next part of the task was to take off the upper bracket, held by a large nut on top of the strut.

I used a torx bit and a ratchet along with a wrench to loosen the top nut. IN the process, the torx bit was severely deformed (see photo below)!

http://www.qzoka.com/images/bdkvwqd89ik81duckwj.jpg

I'm not very impressed with this result. It may be possible to use the lower part of the strut as something to brace against, but I did not do this.

After this, I discovered I could salvage the plastic bounce-limiter and shaft protector. They wanted over $50 for these two pieces of plastic at the store, but it was obvious that the old pieces had plenty of mileage left, given that they had lasted 14 years so far.

I tried a variety of solvents to clean off the grease and dirt, but settled with dish detergent and a small wire brush inside and out. This was very effective in cleaning off all the old dirt and grit:

http://www.qzoka.com/images/6ni4po3woygxm8aug2wb.jpg

Inside

Don't forget the following step:

You should fully extend and compress the strut/shock quite a few times in the vertical position (in which it will be mounted) right side up, to prime the oil in it (after shipping and storage), and you should hear the 'air' inside work out and the shock gets less noisey.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/73rq56aggkquo42578il.jpg

The top bracket was also quite rusted, but I chose to clean it off with a wirebrush, and re-use it. The thing has lasted 14 years, and I don't know if I'll see another 5 or 10 out of this car before it has to be scrapped.

It is actually a rather thick piece of steel after all, and I doubt there is any immediate danger in sticking it back in.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/qu45y7l32pfcv9xw8zi.jpg

Just to be sure of slowing down the deterioration process, I treated it with "Rust Converter", which hardens the rust and creates a primer-like undercoat that is paintable.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/abu6ia46g7yxlp4f40d6.jpg

Nobody had the upper bracket and nuts in stock, so I wasn't going to wait around.


Similarly, I gave the underside of the wheel-well top a scrub-down with the wire-brush on my drill, and sprayed it with rust-remover.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/1zdqm87z4uz3icy7izj.jpg

Notice that I have covered the brake pads and rotor with a plastic garbage bag while I strip off the rust flakes and old paint from inside the wheel well.

here's how I screwed the top nut back on, using the torsion bar.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/z66gsr0fzzs0za7x6ce.jpg

This I think was a mistake. The hex-key stripped out the hole in the top of the shaft.

I doubt I got the required 75 ft-lbs of tightness here.

I think there must be another way to get the torque. Perhaps the shaft only turns a limited amount in one direction or the other. In that case, I should have put the lower half of the strut in a vise.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/ibzt5iyxf7a81p3f19h.jpg

Getting the the strut back in was a bit tricky.

I had envisioned putting in the bottom bolt, and hinging the thing back and forth to get the original camber/alignment.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/h9eds75d6xm6a3jieni5.jpg

When I got it in there, it was obvious that the emergency brake bracket was in the way of the strut at the angle required to clear the fender.

Rather than remove the bracket, I figured out that I had to compress the strut shock absorber to get the top of the strut vertical. Then I was able to align the lower holes and insert a bolt.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/t5b7vh5ltd2sufb2b3.jpg

Once I got the strut vertical and one bolt halfway in, I was able to insert the upper bolt also.

The following photo is worth looking at:

http://www.qzoka.com/images/txzplgdpzczkhpmvpd9k.jpg

You can see the lower bolt is in, but the upper holes are not aligned. The wheel knuckle is hanging down where it was left when I removed the old strut.

I took the wood beside the floorjack here (a 1x4) and put it sideways/vertical under the knuckle behind the disc-brake shield (see arrow). I used the floor jack to push the knuckle up and hinge it into position so that the holes aligned. Then I inserted the second upper bolt.

This bent the shield slightly, and I had to rebend it to give adequate clearance for the rotor.

next, I used a smaller bolt and the sledge to ram the bolts almost all the way in.

I believe this also was a mistake. The bolts did not go in without a lot of pounding, and I could not get them flush in any case.

You can see the damage to the bolt-heads in the following photo:

http://www.qzoka.com/images/7e73bm2mtbrkb4g0kz20.jpg

I continued after this by just tightening the nuts. This actually pulled the bolts into their proper position, and I think now that I could have done this when the bolts were only halfway in, and saved pounding the bolts and possibly distorting them. who knows if they can be removed again now.

here I am again using the c-clamp to align the stabilizer bar so that the rubber and clip can be put on before installing the nuts.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/whoiufrmckmiylvygus3.jpg


Finally, the lower nuts were cranked completely on using the torque ratchet set to 135 foot-lbs.

Just for reference, the upper bolts are suppost to be 34 ft-lbs (46 Nm)
the top nut is supposed to be 74 ft-lbs (100 Nm) - according to Monroe
and the bottom nuts are 133 ft-lbs (180 Nm)

http://www.qzoka.com/images/ib8at1oxcmy1yg8892y.jpg

I did not use this torque ratchet to actually remove the nuts. I purchased a similar sized Johnson bar ($40) and the visible impact LONG 24 mm socket for this job. I had previously bought the torque ratchet for $60 on sale (usually $100+).

I hooked up the top of the strut last. It was approximately aligned, but camber was the least of my worries while doing this job. [

I found I could push the strut in with one hand and get the front bolt in and threaded. Then I used that bolt as a hinge/lever to push the back hole close enough to align the back bolt.

I found some good news in putting back the bolts. They appear to be not stripped after all. I think I just failed to tighten down the back bolt sufficiently to clamp the plate down, and had fooled myself into thinking it was stripped.

These bolts are fine thread (metric, the middle size that nobody carries) and take forever to tighten up.

http://www.qzoka.com/images/uulsujlx66f3c57iooh.jpg\

I may pull this off again if I can get upper brackets from the wreckers that are in good shape. I'm hoping that will be a cheaper solution. At the same time, I could then replace the knuckle/bearing assembly too.

I doubt the camber is that bad, but I will try to get it aligned before doing too much highway driving.