Hi guys, had to rejoin because it has been so long. But bought another blazer with all new problems. Hope someone can get this one cause I am not about to start chucking modules and ecms and switches at it. Here is the problem;
Once in awhile (once or twice a week and getting more frequent) when I try to start my 97 blazer vin w 4.3 litre it kicks but stalls immediately. After trying about 100 times(literally) it starts and runs fine. I have figured out that is more about time than crank tries. About 15 to 20 minutes. It is something ignition related. Fuel pressure never goes below 56 or so lbs. As I said it actually fires and stalls all at once Like yeah...no! Then after 15 or so minutes starts up and runs fine. Like it forgets the problem.LOL Now even if it happens and I try a couple of times then just give up and try again after the required 15 minutes or so, good to go. But at this point I seem to have to give myself an extra half hour to make sure I get to where I want to go on time Oh yeah happens in hot or cold weather, hot or cold engine.:banghead: :banghead:

The good news is it does it long enough to figure some stuff out. Does it have spark? Are all the dash lights coming on like they should. Is the check engine light coming on. It needs a minimum of 56 psi to start any lower (55 or less) and it will crank all day and nothing will happen. What happens if you hold the accelerator to the floor when you try to start it?

This one needs 65 lbs of fuel pressure for a good start.
If you do not have full pressure do not leave home without it.
Specs. are 60/66.
A good fast test for fuel delivery problem is a shot of carb cleaner in intake at TBI.
Also a 97 is a bad year for ing switchs.

The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

My bad! 60 to 66 is the proper spec.

Hi guys, had to rejoin because it has been so long. But bought another blazer with all new problems. Hope someone can get this one cause I am not about to start chucking modules and ecms and switches at it. Here is the problem;
Once in awhile (once or twice a week and getting more frequent) when I try to start my 97 blazer vin w 4.3 liter it kicks but stalls immediately. After trying about 100 times(literally) it starts and runs fine. I have figured out that is more about time than crank tries. About 15 to 20 minutes. It is something ignition related. Fuel pressure never goes below 56 or so lbs. As I said it actually fires and stalls all at once Like yeah...no! Then after 15 or so minutes starts up and runs fine. Like it forgets the problem.LOL Now even if it happens and I try a couple of times then just give up and try again after the required 15 minutes or so, good to go. But at this point I seem to have to give myself an extra half hour to make sure I get to where I want to go on time Oh yeah happens in hot or cold weather, hot or cold engine.:banghead: :banghead:
My 97 Jimmy had the same problem a few years ago, It was the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. Can't remember which one it was. I also had the same problem with my 91 Road master wagon (god rest it's soul), after several months of B.S., it turned out to be the coil booster on the shaft of the distributor. There were hair line cracks on it, (magnet) sometimes it would fire, sometimes it wouldn't. I replaced the shaft on the distributor (because I had already rebuilt the rest of it) and the problem went away.
Good luck

coil booster on the shaft of the distributor.

Do you mean the pickup coil?

Do you mean the pickup coil?
Yes. Pick up coil, the one that is pressed on the shaft. I actually still have it. I use it for a fridge magnet to remind me of the grief it caused me.
Thanks for correcting me.