b4 i pull my hair out...can someone PLZ HELP.....
my bf and i have a 93 rodeo that we purchased from ( some guy)
almost a year ago and it has been a nightmare almost since day one.
almost immediately it was spitten/sputterin/no power..took it in to have it checked was told it had a dead cylinder and basicly needed to replace engine...sooo...got a 95 engine out of a passport and replaced it...drove it home ran great..shortly after started having same problem....took it to a couple places AGAIN to have it checked and told us they couldnt tell us what the problem was bcuz there wasnt a check engine light or codes.
sooo...bf started replacing parts..he has replaced......
fuel filter, fuel pump, o2censor, spark plugs, coil packs & timing belt.
( not in that order)
it had completely stopped running and thats when he replaced the fuel pump and it now runs again but with no power...it was suggested to us to take it to a isuzu dealership to have it checked out again...but b4 we do that as a last resort and spend a bunch more money we dont have we are hoping for some advice/ideas and any/all will be GREATLY appreciated.

Instead of bringing it to an isuzu dealer, and before putting any more money into it, you could probably bring it to a decent shop and ask for a real-time scan during a road test to get a base-line of engine parameters.

What did you actually replace when you installed the new engine? Were all the original parts used? Plugs, Wires, Injectors, Sensors, ETC. If you dont have a check engine light at all, when you first turn the key on. Its Probabbly a bad ECM. (electronic Control Module) Located behinde the kick panel in front of the drivers door.
Or in my case I found that the bulb was removed from the Check engine light. so a new nieve buyer like me wouldn't notice it.
Take out your speedometer, pop out the molding, theres 2 screws strait in, and 2 that come up from the bottom, beside the steering colum, from underneith. and see if the bulb is in the spot marked for the CEL. IF it is swap it out with one of the other bulbs for now.
The put it in self diogosic mode, which will give you codes by flashing the CEL light. and see what that comes up with. On the 93 Theres an empty plug at the ECM, it has a white flat plug, 1 blk, and 2 orange wires. Take a paper clip and jump the outer 2 wires on the plug. turn the key on and count the flashes. flash, pause flash, flash, pause. Is code 12. which is normal. let us know what you have from there.

haven't checked the codes again, but did replace the wires and fuel pressure regulator and it still is the same. as far as same parts i have 2 intake's and have tried both, i have 2 sets of coil packs and have tried both of those, it always the same. when i replaced the fpr i checked the section of metal return line that comes off the bottom of it to make sure it wasn't clogged and it wasn't.

This is a 3.2L, right?

Have you cleaned the EGR and its tube?

And I second getting a look at live data.

yes its a 3.2 sohc,
also i hav a question when setting the timing b4 putting on the belt. when lining up the cam shaft pully's to their marks do i have to turn the pully's untill they spring to their marks or can i just turn the pully to line up the marks?
can the get out of phase?
thanx

you can just turn them. Be carefull on the timing, The tensioner is kinda tricky if i remember right. you have to loosen something, then pin back the plunger, so you can get the belt on. then release it.
This might help.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280062357

i had a 94 passport check the ignition coil had one did the same exact same thing. also is it using alot of gas because also the 02 sensor went out the front one and it ran like crap no power and i didnt have a check engine light lemm know what you have changed i know those vehicle like the back of my hand

I was thinking coilpack, too, but they say they've changed them. I also did not get a code when one went bad.

yea i have 2 sets of coilpacks tried them both and its the same thing.
and i could only find one o2 sensor and i replaced it. it was one of the 1st things i replaced cause the o2 light was on. but i never reset it to turn it off and it didn't make a difference in how it ran.

code is 12 just repeats more than 3 times, its the only 1

Im almost betting your off a tooth on the Belt? Its been about 4 years since i did my 96' , And i thought it was very tricky to set up. and everything had to be just right. (putting a shim behind the belt for the proper tension, the ratching plunger etc, it was a real headache till i figured it out) Now if you didn't mess with the timing belt on the new engine, i would be looking for something else. A compression test on all 6 cylinders should let you know if your timing is off, esp if you have real good comp on some cycinders, and not others.
I had a nissan with the same symptoms as yours, and it was due to someone not tightening the harmonic ballencer tight enought, and with just a little movement, it wore the key about 1/4 of the way off. and it was just enough to through it out time, to where it wouldn't even run when it got warm. It equiled about 1 tooth of play.

All code 12 is that there is no Tach Signal, which is normal, and lets you know that the diognostics are working.
Im not a real believer in the self test. because mine doesn't even give me a code if i unplug a sensor. but ill get the 12 code.

i unpluged the map sensor and it gave me a code 33 which is correct, then cleared codes and again just got 12

when i did the left bank(drivers side) it didn't spring into position, it spang and i had to advance it a bit more just before the next spring to line it up. should i have kept turning until it spang to the correct position?

I can't remember if it's in this forum or is planetisuzoo.com, but I remember reading a post after i searched 'timing belt' that a guy actually was able to attach some actual Isuzu training videos of how to do that.

Mark