When I try to open the power sliding door by pressing any of the buttons, the door motor just makes a short click no matter how many times I press the button. The door won't open or close automatically. I tryed resetting the power door a couple of times and I checked the fuses. The door still does not open or close automatically. It just makes that short click sound when I press the button. What is wrong?

I would try to spray silicone or similar on the rubber molding where it closes, as well as all rollers (use the red extension tube from a spray can), latches, tracks (clean the bottom one where all the crud, dirt, obstructions may be before you spray the roller wheels), etc. My 97 would stick as it tried to open every six months or so and was cured with the silicone spray. Wipe off all excess. Check also that all the rubber molding is pushed back into its original position before you start spraying it. See if this helps. If not, see if all three door opener/closer toggles make the door act the same. If one hangs the opening process up, it could be that switch/toggle. You may also need to adjust the closing/opening mechanism (dealer usually is best for that). Check also with them for a recall on needing to adjust the mechanism. Worst case, as with my 97 that finally stopped working 3 yrs ago and now I do it manually, is that your Rear Actuator Control Module is going bad (back in 2003, dealer wanted $228 for the part, $144 labor to put it in). I went through too many years of resetting the mechanism by removing the fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, etc. Also, check for some of the other postings in this Venture forum as well for Power Sliding Door problems, especially for the corroded wires (from water leaks/plugged drain tubes) that may be under the PS front carpeting. . Keep us posted.

I lubricated all the tracks where the door drives on and the cable that runs through the motor. I still have the same problems no matter which buttons I push (overhead button, beside the door button, and remote keyless entry transmitter button). Also, previously when the power sliding door used to work and the door was open while the car was in gear, there would be a loud buzz to indicate that the door was not closed. Now when the door is opened and I put the car into any gear, there is no buzzing noise and the door does not operate.

I lubricated all the tracks where the door drives on and the cable that runs through the motor. I still have the same problems no matter which buttons I push (overhead button, beside the door button, and remote keyless entry transmitter button). Also, previously when the power sliding door used to work and the door was open while the car was in gear, there would be a loud buzz to indicate that the door was not closed. Now when the door is opened and I put the car into any gear, there is no buzzing noise and the door does not operate.

I would bet its your rear actuator control module needing replacement. However, you may want to go to the stealership for the $80 or so free cup of coffee and have them check it out. Make sure there are no recalls as well related to that door when you give them your VIN. If you want to troubleshoot some more b4 that dreaded trip to their service bay, I would start with ensuring no corrosion in the wire harness under the PS front carpet. If there is, I would repair all that first since it also affects your power driver's seat control as well as your power sliding door. If it is corroded you need to fix the leaking area (windshield or plugged drain tube) as well.

Someone told me that the plungers and plunger pads on the door and the door jam could be corroded. Where are these two things located and how do they look like?

I had a similar problem with my wifes 01 Montana

After finally managing to get the door to open my having someone wiggle the manual lock/unlock button on the inside while i kept pulling and releasing the handle on the outside.

Once i got the door open i removed the door panel and was able to examine what was happening.

There is a actuator in the middle upper part of the door that connects to your door locking mechanism via a long thin rod.

This actuator had gotten weak over time and was only able to fully extend about 20% of the time as such this was keeping the locking mechanism from fully unlocking.

I checked the dealer and they wanted around $150.00 for the stupid little unit.

After i did a close inspection i realized it looked just like one of the after market unit they sell in car stereo shops for people who want to add power locks to there cars.

so i went to one of the local shops and had a look at what they had in stock i found a unit that had the exact same amount of movement in and out and the mounting was very close to the factory unit.

The install went very easy as i was able to use the factory connecting rod and only had to drill one new mounting hole.

I had this installed for 4 months and it was working fine and then the van got written off this july because we got stuck in a major hail storm in Canton Ohio while visiting friends

Someone told me that the plungers and plunger pads on the door and the door jam could be corroded. Where are these two things located and how do they look like?

Along the front edge of the Power Sliding Door there s/b 6-8 (I can't remember exactly) plungers with metal (copper?) tips about the size of a pencil eraser. They mate up with a "plunger pad" of the same metal material when the door is closed. Either could be slightly corroded. I would start with spraying some electronics cleaner on a towel and try to rub off any corrosion that you see on both the plunger and plunger pad surfaces. If nothing comes off, you may want try either lightly sanding or using a scouring pad rough side. Be careful that either of these may cause premature follow up corrosion if you live in moderate to severe climates. See what the electronics cleaner may give you for results before going furhter or to the dealer. Check under that PS front carpet for corroded wiring though first if you have not already.