I have a 1995 Ford Taurus with the 3.8L engine. I read what little the search seemed to have relevent but was hoping for more info.

The ac was undercharged, based on not cold enough, pressure measurements, the clutch cycling, and a history of losing charge. I added refrig., yes with the can upright, while it was running in 95+ deg F heat. Then the clutch started to slip. It hadn't before as it didn't have that telltale smell. So, I took some of the refrig. out thinking that maybe I had overcharged it. I'm not sure I removed enough to make a difference with the clutch, but I did raise the inside air temp.

I did not want to fool around with it too much so as not to ruin the clutch if it would still work. I used brake cleaner and sprayed it, unfortunately not up close. I measured the clutch gap to be a snug 0.040". I know that's not spec when new, but I've read that clutch gaps much larger still work though not ideal. I'd rather not pull the clutch as it's a real PITA, packed under the ps pump and jambed against the side frame. I've replaced the clutch before while in the vehicle. Wasn't easy, but I liked the recommended approach even less. One recommendation here is to bend the clutch springs to reduce the clutch gap instead of pulling it apart. I don't think that would help if it is slipping while fully contacted.

When it was much cooler at night, maybe 70deg F, I put in about 6 oz. of the refrig., which was more than I had taken out, and I still wasn't able to lower the cold air temp to a reasonable level. I doubt below 50 deg F. My point is, after giving it a good spray cleaning, the clutch was no longer slipping. The real test is back at 95 deg F, because the pressure differential is much higher, therefore more work for the pump.

My bottom line is hoping to avoid replacing the clutch or the whole deal. Replacing the compressor, and doing it right, also involves replacing the expansion orifice and the accumulator/drier. New, on the cheap, I'd guess $400 parts and whatever to be environmental, and later pull a vacuum on it. Oh, boy.

Hmmm, so history of losing charge, incorrect pressure readings, and cleaning a slipping clutch seemed to help the slipping. Do you suppose the front compressor shaft seal might be leaking?

Since the Pag oil appears to be water based and doesn't tend to leave the oily residue that used to be associated with a leak in the days of R-12, I'm not sure how long such a film would last on a slipping clutch, but would be something to consider. Do you have access to a sensitive halogen gas leak detector to see if there's an appreciable leak at the front of the compressor? I suppose in that area you'll want to run the compressor for a bit, then shut off the engine and quickly check for the leak. I'm not sure I'd want to be probing around the pulley when it's spinning.

-Rod

I'll warn all you little boys and girls out there, you can run and you can hide, but there is no escaping the Shorod! :uhoh: :eek7: If he can track me down from another forum, so can he you!!! :confused: :screwy

I'll add more later since now I keep falling asleep, but I do suspect you are somewhat low on charge. The high low side pressure doesn't alarm me if you took it while the engine was off or it the ac system was on. The compressor actually causes the pressure to decrease as it pumps.

For now, search for my recent posts in the past two weeks by my id, as I cover related info already elsewhere.

Tripletdaddy, you must be sleepy. You are answering your own question.... ;) Don't you remember if you took the reading while the engine was off?

-Rod