WIP 1/24 Union Ferrari 330 P4

Picked up this kit the other day from an old toy shop. It's basically a repackaged Heller kit [thanks to the forum members for the info on that!] and looks rather good on the detail side, it's even got springs for the dampers! Initial fit looks a bit dodgey and the engine cover is going to want some bending but it should be ok, just means a lot of work. One thing I'm annoyed about is the 'chrome' painted sprue. The paint looks rubbish and is all going to have to be sanded off. As a matter of course I always sand, prime and paint over the bare plastic even if it's black on black but the chrome sprue just frustrates me. The real thing is flat steel, there's no chrome there at all...
I've gathered a load of reference images and there are so many wires everywhere it's tricky to see where they all lead to. Also going to order the photo-etch set. Not sure how successful that will be because it's designed for the Fujimi kit. Hopefully I should still be able to salvage the grills though. Oh and I'm gonna pop into work tomorrow and pick up some brass tubing to redo the exhausts. Despite the work that this kit will need I'm looking forward to it, it's a goreous car :)

http://www2.uol.com.br/bestcars/carros/ferrari/classicos/330-p4-67-2.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4663.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4665.jpg

glued the rear together and then to the engine cover. Basically it wasn't going to fit so I glued the rear wings (not sure if that's the correct word to use. I'm refering to the two sections with the vents on either side of the car) to the rear and then taped them in place. However the rear is curved but the engine cover was flat so I decided superglue would be the best option. I did this while the glue on the rear wings was still setting so I could adjust the position relative to the wheel arches. After curving the engine cover by holding it in place for a few seconds I put some tape over just to make sure it stayed in place. I've since looked at the picture again and decided I wasn't happy with the curvature and took it apart and did it again. A bit more curvature and a better fit on the wheel arches second time around. Tomorrow I'll remove the tape and start the sanding/puttying process..

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4676.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4678.jpg


Meanwhile I started putting the engine together. I've glued all of the main pieces together because it can all be sprayed at the same time. I've still yet to work out where I'm going to have to drill the holes for all the wiring...
The second picture shows this horrible chrome-plated (I say chrome-plated but that means it's been painted silver) plastic.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4679.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4680.jpg

i) i'm not sure if you should've used superglue
ii) have you checked through the FAQs for how to deal with chrome plated parts?

Use Easy Off oven cleaner in the yellow(not Blue) can to strip the chrome. You can use bleach or ammonia but they will not remove the clear undercoat which will react when some paints are sprayed over it. I have had problems with Testor's Metalizers crazing the clearcoat so it 's better to use the oven cleaner.

You are a brave soul. i have the kit but when fujimi came out with it I order
it and got the HRM eng kit. it will save me alot of head aches. I will follow closely.

i) i'm not sure if you should've used superglue
ii) have you checked through the FAQs for how to deal with chrome plated parts?

Well it definitely wasn't going to stay put with the normal cement so I thought I'd use something stronger to just make sure it stayed. I tested on a sprue to make sure it didn't react badly or anything so all was ok :)
And no I haven't actually, I had just planned on sanding it but now 935k3 suggested some oven cleaner I think I'll have a go at that first. Thanks though :)

Went to work today and came back with some brass tubing slightly bigger outer diameter than I needed (the closest match). I cut a length off slightly longer than I needed so I'd have some spare to file flat at one end and have room for the exhaust to slide inside at the other. I then needed to file about 5mm of the plastic exhaust to reduce the diameter so it would fit inside the brass. I still need to do them for the right side but at this stage I'm still test-fitting to make sure I've got the dimensions right. When I'm satisfied I'll file the brass down a bit so it's flush with the plastic. I then cut out the old plastic exhaust ends from the rear with a no.11 blade. I taped the engine to the floor and the exhausts in place to make sure it would still look alright. Here are the pictures: Note that the only reason the cocktail stick is propping the exhausts up is because the back of the chassis is bent out of shape. It differs from my reference pictures anyway so I may rebuild it from styrene or plasticard

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4681.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/ejsmith/DSCF4683.jpg

i can't wait for more progress on this one but so far it looks good. i will stay tuned.:popcorn:

ok, you've got my attention on this...ferrari's most beautiful car ever created!

for chrome stripping, i use brake fluid...soak it over night & use a toothbrush to brush them clean.


good luck!:evillol:

cheers!

marc
SGP

well... i only mentioned the superglue thing because that, being a surface join, isn't going to be as strong as a proper cemented bond.
incidentally, i see you've got some of the revell stuff in your photos.

Seeing as you're in the UK, have a look for plastic weld.

With this kit and what I heard about it you chose the hard road to walk on. Brave man and cudos for that - I wish you much luck with all the details and fittings in this kit.
Superglue can be easily used, if applied carefully. I use it more and more on my kits and joints since you can be sure that nothing will fall apart once painted and assembled.

Robert

With this kit and what I heard about it you chose the hard road to walk on. Brave man and cudos for that - I wish you much luck with all the details and fittings in this kit.


say robert, what's wrong with this kit?
you mean fittings & details?

but judging from the kit's age...isn't it an accomplishment to have such a full detail P4 some 20years ago?

please advise as i'm havng the same kit too

marc
SGP

but judging from the kit's age...isn't it an accomplishment to have such a full detail P4 some 20years ago?

you are perfectly right on this. First of all to have a full detail P4 is awesome regardless how this kit may be. But check for the already built Union P4´s here on AF for the little troubles with this kit. If I remember correctly have been some builts in this forum. Despite that from my experience the tooling on older kits haven´t been as exact as they are today. Nevertheless every kit can have its faults despite the age, so maybe my comment was a little misleading.

Build it and you will find out :naughty: Just kidding, with such an old kit I would always qua-tripple check every fitment before glueing and especially super-glueing parts together.

Robert