This'll be a long one, but I want to paint the picture for everyone. I had oil leaking from all over, so decided to pull my 1996 Camry apart and replace a bunch of stuff. Here's a list of everything I replaced: oil pump and housing, water pump, timing belt, steering/compressor belts, oil pan gasket, transmission pan filter and gasket, valve cover gasket, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, pcv valve. So, I followed Hanes pretty much to the letter. The car has been on jack stands for about 6 weeks now, as I have been working slowly on this. So tonight, I finally got it all back together and went to start the car- the darn thing wont turn over. It sounds like it will go, then chokes off and dies. I thought maybe the battery, so tried to jump it- nothing. It is still up at an angle on the jack stands, but I didn't figure that would matter. There was very little gas left in the tank when I put it up, and obviously, there still is very little gas (it's on "E"). I noticed when I was taking the car apart that the crank pully and cam sprockets were not quite at TDC numbers (off by maybe 1/8" to 1/4" below the "0" mark on the crank pulley) but thought it best just to line back up to TDC. Also, when I was taking it all apart, I had an "experienced" friend helping. I was doing something else and he decided to try and take the crank pulley bolt off using the belt as tension- obviously didn't work, but I caught him and stopped him after he had made two or three attempts. Everything else went smooth from what I could tell.

What should I do? Is it a timing issue? Should I realign the timing back to roughly where it was when I pulled everything apart? Is it the gas and the fact that the car has been sitting for so long? Is it the distributor or rotor? HELP!:uhoh:

Generally when people say their car won't turn over it means they turn the key and hear nothing but a click or nothing at all. The engine doesn't rotate. I take it since you say "It sounds like it will go, then chokes off and dies." you are getting engine rotation (it's turning over) when you turn the key but, ignition doesn't start meaning, it won't start and run correct?

If thats the case you need to verify if the engine is getting spark at the spark plugs and fuel at the fuel rail. If both are there then you can look closer at the timing issue. If you need more info put your Haynes manual away then open your maintenance manual waiting for you in the "Factory Service Manuals" thread at the top of the forum. The FAQs thread may be of some help. Get stuck? Come on back.

"There was very little gas left in the tank when I put it up, and obviously, there still is very little gas (it's on "E")".

Try adding a few gallons of gas to the tank and starting it that way. A fill from a 5 gallon gas can would be even better. Or you could lower the car so it is back on level ground. You may have so little gas left in the tank that the fuel pump can not pick up any gas when the tank is so low and the car is on such an angle. Eliminate the simple things before starting to troubleshoot the more complicated things.

Mike

Thta's correct- it is rotating, sounds as if it will start running, coughs, chokes and dies...I can even smell exhaust after a couple attempts.

Although low on gas is the likely problem, from the number of similar problems currently, I would vote for the ignition coil. Gas is easy to test, but if you find a coil, don't throw it away...

If it's been sitting there for a while with a near empty tank, you might throw in a bottle of Heet to remove any built up water condensation.

Okay, so I check the ignition cables- I've got spark to all the plugs. When I pulled the plugs out after turning the engine a couple times, there was fuel on the plugs, so it seems I am getting fuel (I added about 3gal of gas). After that, I started playing with the timing. When I first tried starting the car, the car would turn very rough, try and start, "cough", choke and die. It was very rough. I put the crank to the "0" mark and turn the cam gear counter clockwise about 15 degrees. Tried starting, same deal, but not as rough. So, put the crank to zero again, turned the cam another 15 degrees counter-clockwise, tried to start. This time, it is very smooth as it turns, but now it won't get past the point where it is turning. Should I just keep going with the cam at 15 degree increments and see where it takes me? Should I go a complete 180 with the cam and try to start from there? Am I missing something else?

Index the crank and cam as shown in the 1994 Camry FSM linked at the top of this page. There are instructions in the FAQ thread also.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=3196113&postcount=5

Don't guess, just index them correctly, put on the timing belt as instructed, and leave it alone. The fact that you have spark doesn't mean you have a good enough spark when the plug is under compression and the engine is turning. You need a really hot snappy blue spark to get the job done.

I will try to re-index tomorrow. Is there any situation where the timing of my engine would be off the marks specified in all these manuals?

On the topic of spark, I was reading some threads where people were very concerned with platinum +2 plugs and gapping, etc. I had already purchased new +2 plugs for this car. Should I go back to a single gapped plug? Would that make a difference? Is it possible I "flooded" the engine with all my spark testing?

"Is it possible I "flooded" the engine with all my spark testing?"

If you feel you have flooded the engine, simply hold the pedal all the way to the floor while cranking over the engine. That is the correct way to start a flooded engine, either carburated or fuel injuected.

Mike

Everything's indexed correctly, but I still can't get it to start... other suggestions? I haven't tried stepping on the gas while starting yet...

Coil

I'll look at the coil. Out of curiosity, why the coil? The car was running perfectly fine before I took it apart. Why would the coil be causing a problem now?

4 out of 5 most recent running/starting problems recently have been the coil. Also, you have not provided anything that would rule it out.

Wet plugs means too much gas. Sounds like a flooded condition to me. Hold the pedal down, start it, and keep it to the floor until the engine stops coughing & rocking and starts to rev high. Let off the gas as soon as the revs take off, back to high idle, then off the pedal totally to see if it will sustain itself.

Wouldn't hurt to check the coil's primary and secondary resistance too. As Brian mentioned, there have been many OEM coil failures recently on Camrys having the number of miles as yours. While my personal experience was complete failure, it has manifested itself in other ways.

Replaced the coil- same condition, though it seemed to turn quicker. Stepped on the gas- wouldn't get past choking and coughing and shaking. Any other ideas?

With the timing marks aligned the rotor is pointing at the number one plug wire in the distributor correct? :dunno:

I'd find it hard to believe that all of this wouldn't throw a CEL code, so check the OBD for any stored codes. My feeling is to now look closer at the fuel...specifically the fuel line pressure. Too low will cause hard starting and could be a blocked fuel filter (cheap), failing pressure regulator (more $), or failing pump (ouch $$$). Fuel pressure should be 38-44 psi. I'm not sure if '96s have a test port for fuel pressure...they should since it's OBD-II, but I haven't seen one on my '92 unless someone can enlighten me.

You might pull the injectors out too to give them a good cleaning and check for proper operation.

I'm not sure if '96s have a test port for fuel pressure...they should since it's OBD-II, but I haven't seen one on my '92 unless someone can enlighten me.

No test port. The fuel pressure is checked at the fuel filter output banjo. At this test point, the fuel pressure should be 44-50 psi at idle and engine off with fuel pump operating. When the engine is shut off, the fuel pressure should remain above 21 psi for 5 min.

Okay, let me add one more dimension to see if this points in one direction or another. When I pull the plugs, they are covered in a black sooty liquid. It is particularly bad in #1 and #2 pistons. These were brand new plugs and they look like they've got 60k miles on them already...