s10 4l60e trans slipping

hi i have a 2001 s10 pickup 4x4 with a 4l60e trans in it . problem is a few weeks ago the shift lights on the cluster started acting up. when you would shift to a gear it wouldn't always say i was that gear for example when putting the truck in park sometimes the shifter will say in in 3rd but the truck with still shut off like normal then a few days ago it left like my trans had almost no 2nd gear like it goes into first no problem almost all the time but then like feels like it a stick shift and you push on the clutch and it feels like its in neutral and gear at the same time rpms will rev but truck hardly move other time it goes no problem. i took it to a trans shop and they did a road trip on it to see and the guy said it has 2nd just feels like the lock up clutch is kicking when its not supposed to me and he thinks a senor problem and for 85 they will scan it and then what ever come up its $60 and hour after that but my thing is i have a scanner also and i have found no trouble codes for the trans at all so i don't know what it could be but i would prefer to fix it myself any ideas would help i have looks on other posts and found similar problem but no answers that help. thanks

I believe you need a special scanner to scan trans & transfer case.

As said you need a transmission capable scanner to get codes and read out transmission info.

If the transmission is not shifting right it needs fixed now.
Do not drive it untill you get it checked and fixed or you may burn up transmission.

Also make sure it is a good repair shop or transmission place that does the testing.

Post back codes or what they find.

Tips on finding a good repair shop.Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
MT

well i know believe that it is an electrical problem due to the fact i drove it to work today taking side roads sense the problem only happens after 2nd . anyways i notice that it only happened today 1 time when i left my house all other times my trans shifted fine no troubles. anyone have ideas as to a sensor or anything. also what brand/type of obd2 scanner checks trans codes

well figured i would throw up another update on my drive home the trans didn't seem to be haveing problem tell a few block before my house the it almost seems like after 2nd gear or maybe when it shifted to 2nd that it would lag back a few seconds before fully going into gear almost like you where riding the brake or clutch just alittle bit to hold back power . for example say you come to a red like turns green step on the gas starts off no problem when it goes to shift it lags back a second and then goes in and drives fine after that tell the next stop. now say you nail down the gas and rev engine up to 5,000 rpm where the truck normaly shift it don't want to shift tell i let off the gas the trans will just start to jump the rpms like the trucks pcm know the rpms are up and needs to shift but won't tell i let off the gas where as before the problem started i could nail it down going on the free way and at or just before 5,000 rpm the trans shifted. so this leads me to believe that whatever tells my trans to shift is not sending out the right info at the right time. also on my dash after the truck is off ever now and the i will see alittle bit of light on my shift indicator and odometer lighting up the p for park and o on the odometer but its just enough light that you can only see it when its in a shadow or dark out.. hope that helps someone figure out what might be wrong with this thing and let me know what it is lol..thanks

well i know believe that it is an electrical problem due to the fact i drove it to work today taking side roads sense the problem only happens after 2nd . anyways i notice that it only happened today 1 time when i left my house all other times my trans shifted fine no troubles. anyone have ideas as to a sensor or anything. also what brand/type of obd2 scanner checks trans codes

OBD11 scanners do not read transmission codes.
You need a engine/transmission capable scanner.
Like snap on or the gm tech scanner.
Auto zone does not do it.
Find a good repair shop or a buddie that has the good one.
Get codes and read out transmission shift data and sensore/solenoids and then clear codes and watch for what returns.
Post back code/codes
MT

I'm not sure if it applies to a 2001, but on the 1997 manual says you may need to do all the shifting manually to get a firm clutch lock-up since a manual shift overides the solenoids.
If you have a shift solenoid failing, insufficient fluid pressure will let clutch packs & band slip and wear out quick.
Get a scan quick, even if you go to a general repair shop.
My Autotap reads trans codes but you really don't have that much time unless you can park it a few weeks.

well took the truck to another trans shops today and the guy up there said i need a minor overhaul due to the fact that my clutch bands feel like ther are slipping for 1,300. and he will update the truck with a firmer shift to stop the clutchs from wearing out as fast again. where as the other trans shop said its electrical and the trans is in limp mode. although neither one of the trans shops scanned the truck so i have not much to go off of now besides hit a 3rd shops and see what they say.. however today when i came home i hooked up my hypertech 3 programmer and it told me i had a trans code of p0706 so i am looking to see what that is and hope thats the problem . so maybe that code will help someone give me advice too. thanks

Run from an transmission shop that says rebuild without hooking up a scanner and testing the transmission.
Code 706 is a transmission range switch or wiring problem.
If it has been programed with a hypertech remove programing and set it back tothe factory program and see if that helps.
For anyone to scan or test it with a transmission scanner it will need to be set back to factory program anyway.

Let us know how it goes.
MT

the hypertech program is no longer installed on the trans i took it off about 3 weeks ago o make sure it was not the program messing with my trans . anyways what is the transmission range sensor switch and whats does it do/ where is it at .what exactly does the code mean i a trying to find out but can't find anything on the code p0706 thanks

It is the gear selecter switch on the side of the transmission shift lever/rod going into transmission,.
The best best on a repair flow chart and wiring and info on it is the All data online sub.
24.95 $ us plastic and you can be online and set to go in 15 minutes.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

To do the complet testing on it you may need a engine/transmission capable scanner to read out the data from it.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
MT

Like MT said, the range switch is located on the driver side of the transmission. It has two plug-in connectors on the back of it. These switches have a nack for melting and do wear out, causing all kinds of issues. When you remove this switch, be very careful on removing the connectors, they are prone to being damaged as a result of glue melting from the switch and damaging the connector. There is a TSB on this. In my opinion, this a a very good place to start to figure this problem out.

hi, well new problem today, trucks in the shops now to get that trans opened up and checked out .after they scan it for code so i will know monday whats codes i have on it. but anyways before the truck would feel like it was slipping after 2nd gear shifted. so while i was checking the truck out myself i noticed i had 2 spark plug wires arcing out once in a while so i went out and got new wire and went for a drive now the trans feels fine after 2nd gear shift still alittle slip feeling but new problem. when i jump on the free way i always have a heavy foot getting on. so i get the truck to wide open throttle and normally it shifts out at or just before 5000 rpm today i had to let off the gas for it to shift up or maybe the torque converter lock not sure but the truck reved up to like 5300 rpm before i ended up letting off when it didn't shift . so i am kinda thinking something is not telling my torque converter to lock up at the right time or up shift not sure whats up with the trans but ideas would help before the shop starts telling me stuff. but the only thing i really don't get is why putting new wires on made the trans work/shift different

The engine has to be running right before the transmission will work right.
MT

could you possibly go into some more detail as to why the trans will act up when the engine is not running right. cuase the engine was not missing from what i see it just had a arcing wire that would arc ever 5 or 10 minutes when reving. some more details as to why the trans will do that will help me alot.

No details needed.
Engine has to be running good for the transmission to work good.
If you have codes engine or transmission or body codes fix them.
If spak is jumping fix that to.
The clear codes and recheck.
Good luck
MT

ok just got the truck back from the trans shop they went over the trans with a snap-on scanner while it was driving . they said there is a slip in the 2nd gear they believe it to be the clutchs for 2nd gear. they told me that all the electrical parts are opening and closing when they should and that the tcc is working as it should. so they said i should have them flush the trans and see if that works. and if not they will have to pull it and rebuild it. which is ok as long as thats is really the problem .because i have always thought that you would still get some kinda code saying what the problem was for the most part. so you where not guessing on what the problem was but i don't know . anyways i am not thinking its not just one clutch, because my problem happens if i shift manually from 1st 2nd 3rd and drive it still lags after 2nd gear shift. it also happens if i put it into drive and take off it takes a-lot of rpms to get the truck moving now and again and after 2nd or maybe at 2nd it slips or lags truck kinda holds back like riding brake or clutch and engine revs up then truck pickups up again after a minute. but where my problem gets me confused is every now and then i will put the truck in reverse and it will take alot of rpms to get the truck moving so most of the time i put it in R and it won't want to move so i shift to D move forward some then put it back in R and it goes in R just fine after that. so if it needs a rebiuld then so be it but if not i will only fix whats wrong. any ideas would be a great help before i hand over 1,500 for the rebuild.

could you possibly go into some more detail as to why the trans will act up when the engine is not running right. cuase the engine was not missing from what i see it just had a arcing wire that would arc ever 5 or 10 minutes when reving. some more details as to why the trans will do that will help me alot.

It still sounds like you have a Valve body problem, with the intermittant engagement of different clutchs and bands. Probably this has resulted in damage to clutchs and bands after the many tests you driven.

Your shifting problem seems from the past comments to be electrically sourced. I don't know if the Snap-On Scanner reads only codes if a solenoid actually malfunctions internally, or if the codes are actual indications of low pressure in a given shift.

You are taking a chance that you are getting an incomplete shift due to an electrical solenoid not allowing full fluid flow and pressure to a clutch or band, and this could (with your admitted heavy foot) shred or burn out the friction discs and warp the metal discs and destroy your otherwise good trans.

Most trans shop probably don't want to do a partial in car repair of solenoids and valve body work and risk hidden damage to the clutches and bands.

Does your trans fluid smell burnt?

$1500 sounds like a good deal, I wouldn't touch it for under $2600 here in Sunny California.


ps; The mis you said was occurring every 5 to 10 minutes was constant and ongoing as long as those bad wires were on your car, and your Torque converter won't lock-up ever if your foot is to the floor.

I would hold on the flush.
A good pann drop and filter change would be best.
And also see what is in the bottom of pan.
Has the range switch code been fixed?
MT

the range switch code has been fixed although i still don't have a light in p or N the only indicator lights that show are R D 3 2 1. P lights up for a second when the truck is turned on then goes out. as for the spark plugs wires they where only arcing for 1 day at the most before i put a new set on. the trans shops showed me the scanner and it shows on the screen when each solenoid opens and closes but im not sure about the pressure thing. i will be dropping the pan this weekend to see whats in it. as for the fluid ive been driveing the truck to work and back and gas station now and then which is only 8 blocks from me both work and gas station for about 2 weeks now and i still don't have a burnt smelling fluid and the trans still feels the same when it slips or whatever it is doing. some days it won't even at up going to work but then it will coming home . but now then ,when i drop the pan if there is nothing in it metal or clutch material what should i be looking at then and if i decide to pull my trans and open it up what should i look for to find my problem or problems. i have worked on manual transmissions before and some autos from my step dads cars which are mostly 60's and 70's muscle cars so i have a general knowledge of transmissions but this would be my first fully electric trans. i know if i drop my pan and stuffs in it i need a rebuild or a new trans whichever i find cheaper. all i know is i need to fix this soon cuase its killing my gas mileage and at 4.00 a gallon i need the best i can get.

well found my problem today i decided i would drop the pan to see what all was in it and i found that whoever put my last trans filter in was being kinda lazy that day and never fully seated it which in turn caused my filter to fall out. so my trans was not getting the proper amount of fluid all the time. so $15 new filter and $18 for trans fluid and the truck back to running like a raped ape

Glad you found the problem.
But.

The filter should not drop down or out.

Make sure it is the right filter.

The newer deeper pans take a little longer/thicker filter.
If the old style short /thin filter is installed it will fall down.
Good Luck.
MT