Brake Light Stuck On After Line Replacement

Hello,

1993 Olds Bravada.

I ripped the main line going to the rear proportioning valve. It was pretty rusty anyway, no big loss. Rusty as well were the lines running from the proportioning valve to the wheel cylinders.

I replaced all lines and proportioning valve, from the antilock pump back.

After my line was ripped, my brake light came on and stayed on, as was expected. However, it will not go out now. I suspect I still have air in the lines - I used a vacuum pump to power bleed the thing at the rear wheels and, since I couldn't get pure fluid flow, called it "good 'nuff." I was still getting a lot of air bubbles.

To be clear, I bled them for an hour like this. I am thinking the air bubbles were coming from a less-than-perfect seal between the vacuum pump line and the valves on the wheel cylinders.

Everything on the lines are sealed very tight; no leaking there.

I do have great brakes now, and they're not mushy at all.

There's still that danged light though. Is there a procedure I'm overlooking when it comes to bleeding a completely dry system with antilocks? The master cylinder was, for all intents and purposes, dry WRT the reservoir servicing the rear.

Help?

Thanks,

Josh <><

Red or yellow light.
Unplug the level sensor on the master cylinder tand if it has on and see if light goes out.
Also unplug the electrical wire on saftey valve to see if that is what is turning on the light.

If air got into the ABS brakese you need a brake bleeding scanner to bleed it.
MT

Antilock's been on since I've had it; the red brake light is on now.

You're probably right about air getting in. Where can I get one of these scanners?

I've always been very good with motors, but have always left the harder brake work up to others.

Thanks,

Josh <><

Snap on tool dealer or a GM dealer has the Tech 1-2 scanners that will do it.
Sometimes E bay has some.
But the new good ones run in the 4-5K price range.
For a one time deal/bleed I would find a good dealer or repair shop.
MT

There is also a manual breeding procedure for that one but requires a couple of combination valve depression tools and a step by step procedure.
MT