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Blue coolant light/flashing red oil warning


CathyDad
04-16-2008, 12:09 AM
:frown: I posted a few threads on my 2002 1.8T with the now new catalytic converter, timing belt and water pump. Problem is that the coolant light goes blue after warmed up, then started with a flashing/beeping red oil warning light. The oil light only does its act with warm engine at idle or very low RPM. I flushed the engine at idle then changed oil and filter (5W-40 synthetic, K&N premium filter) but the problem remained.

I called the local dealer who just did the cat change, timing belt, etc. He said that 1.8 turbos are having a lot of problems exactly like mine and they have never found anything wrong.

I have added G-12 coolant to make sure I am not low. I have purchased a new temp and oil pressure sensor--will try to install this weekend, but I have been having a bad time with cancer treatment side effects, so it gets a bit difficult to do a lot at one time. In fact the car has sat pretty much since early February waiting on both weather and my health to permit an attack.

If anyone can point me in a good direction, I will be grateful. I do enjoy driving the car, but cannot trust it with these symptoms. I am also planning on installing coolant temp, oil pressure, and one other gauge (the pod holds three) for backup info. I am not sure how all these glitch warnings (no evidence of any actual problem) affect the ECU, so I intend to fix this eventually--it appears the dealer will be of no assistance, so I am pretty much dependent on all the experts who have been so much help in this forum.:banghead:

hako
04-18-2008, 06:20 AM
I'm no expert but I'd be looking at checking the oil pickup filter screen in the sump - if crap blocks the screen then it cannot suck oil up. Every time an engine is pulled down as yours has been you will get bits of garbage dropping in the sump....most gets flushed out when the oil is changed but some can get caught in the oil pickup sctreen. Don't think its too hard to pull the sump.
Wish beating the big C was as easy........
Good Luck mate.

CathyDad
04-18-2008, 12:38 PM
Thanks, my friend--I knew you would provide some feedback. I am resolved to dropping the sump and cleaning/replacing the screen and pickup tube. I'll check on how difficult the oil pump change would be, too. As long as I am up to my armpits in the engine, I might as well do everything I can while I am in there. In my condition and at my age, I am fortunate to have a bit more money than common sense, so I have even entertained an automatic prelube or some other modification--even if just so I can talk about it. Any thoughts or suggestions would also be appreciated. If I do go into the process, I will take pics to post any interesting findings. I am also lucky to have friends with nice garages who are willing to help me out, so that helps. Everything will work out as long as my wife doesn't find out.
One other observation on this challenge--after I had the water pump and timing belt changed along with the cat converter, the converter "cook off" made some scary smells under the hood. After a drive home from work (30mi or 50km) I was checking under the hood and for the first time heard something running. It was the cool down pump. Never heard it before and I usually notice things like that. So now I am thinking that maybe the pump was not running prior to the service. This would have contributed to any coking of the oil and sludge buildup. The plot thickens--just like the oil.

Thanks again and expect some follow on info when I get into the next episode.

hako
04-19-2008, 06:11 AM
Do you know why the car needed a new catalytic converter - was it because of oil contamination or flooding with petrol or simple internal collapse. Most cats down here virtually last the life of the car although we don't have emission checks every year like some countries. The cats I've seen fail were oil contaminated which blocked the matrix. The oil gauge would be a great idea - at least it will tell you that you still have oil flowing despite the oil warning light being on (if you cannot fix that!). As long as the light goes off above idle eh. Good Luck.

Kirk in Iowa
04-19-2008, 01:58 PM
Cathydad,
Perhaps you already know this, but here’s a little info on the Oil pressure warning system on your bug.

The OP warning system on this car includes a single oil pressure switch, and electronic control unit, a warning light and a buzzer. The electronic control unit w/buzzer and light is in the instrument cluster.

With the ignition off, the single oil pressure switch is open (no continuity between the terminal connection and the switch body) When the ignition is switched on, but the engine is not started, the oil pressure warning light should come on for about 3 seconds and then go off.

When the engine is started and the oil pressure rises, the OP switch should close at about 1.4 bar (about 20 psi), completing the circuit to ground. When the engine reaches about 1500 RPM, the electronic control unit checks to see if the ground is complete and if so, the system is functioning normally. If the ground is not complete, the warning light and buzzer are activated.

Several small time delays are programmed into the system to prevent accidental warnings due to normal minor changes in oil pressure.

A quick check of the system can be accomplished as follows:

Check the instrument cluster warning light:

Turn the key on, but do not start the engine.
Warning light should come on for about 3 seconds then go out.

Turn the key off. Disconnect and ground the wire at the oil pressure switch.

Turn key on, but do not start the engine.

Warning light should flash and the buzzer should beep three times.

Turn key off. Remove oil pressure switch from ground but do not re-connect to the oil pressure switch.

Start engine and let it idle
Warning light and buzzer should not come on.

Increase the engine speed to about 1500 to 2000 rpm.
Warning light and buzzer should come on after a 2-3 second delay.

If the above tests give the results as noted, the oil pressure warning system is functioning normally within normal parameters. If the above tests results deviate from the specification continue by testing the oil pressure and the oil pressure switch.

Testing the oil pressure can be done by connecting a oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure switch port.

Here are the specs:

Oil pressure at 80 C (176F)
At idle……………..29 psi minimum
At 2,000 RPM…….44 to 66 psi
Maximum…………103 psi

The pressure relief valve is located on the oil filter housing. It is a spring and a ball check valve that opens at 58 psi to control the maximum pressure. If this valve is leaking, or opens too soon, it will cause low oil pressure.

Good luck,



Kirk

CathyDad
06-13-2008, 01:11 AM
Thanks, everybody--this is the first time I've been on the boards since April 18th, so I am a bit behind. The cancer treatments are rough, but I am in a lull period and recovering a bit for now. Must be onery because I am two years overdue at Arlington National Cemetery.

Now that the weather is oppressively hot, I will be changing my water temp switch and checking my oil circuit as outlined above. Next problem is the daughter's "99 NB with the droning AC issue.

I will report back after I work this one through.

Any advice on the AC will be appreciated. Posted last year, hoped it would disappear (not lately) so this weekend it's time to get busy again.

Thanks again.

hako
06-13-2008, 05:35 AM
Re the A/C problem - a son of mine owned a Hilux 4X4 which during very hot weather with the air on high would start rumbling then the high pressure switch would switch the compressor off repeating this cycle every 30 seconds or so. This was in Western Queensland with outside temps near 50c. From this we figured that when the comp was working hard the refrigerant pressures would reach the critical figure and the hi pressure switch would open. Maybe in your case the refrig fill is incorrect (not sure if you use R134 or freon on a wildcat gas)
Great to see you back.
Regards Denis

gergel1
06-15-2008, 05:49 PM
howdy
i changed my temp sensor, old one was black, new one is green the black ones had problems i guess.
the red oil light & temp light now are out, & car runs great....WHO KNEW.
ED

CathyDad
06-25-2008, 03:14 AM
Thanks, everyone for the great advice--I still have not been able to get the 1.8 Turbobug done, but this weekend for sure.
I am happy to report that Hako was spot on with his advice on the '99 Beetle ac problem. I checked pressures on a very hot day and they were indeed right at the borderline of the high pressure/overcharge range. I recovered enough to center the charge in the correct range and no more problems. Now to conquer the bugs in the other bug.
Great advice--thanks again.

rdboles
09-16-2008, 08:40 PM
i hope you are improving with your c. i was wondering if you ever found out what was causing your turbo and oil light issues.
I also have a turbo beetle (2001) automatic that has the blue light that comes on from time to time and when it happens and i come to a stop the oil light will come on. as i take off the oil light will go away until stopping again. it only happens when the blue light is on. It doesnt happen always and when the blue light goes off the oil light never comes on. it seems strange.

CathyDad
09-16-2008, 10:59 PM
Thanks to all for the kind wishes. Since i am still overdue at Arlington National Cemetery, something must be working.
I did finally get the temp sender changed out and that fixed the problem. I double checked using the diagnostic steps to verify. All is well.
One development that was quite unexpected. The dealer called to see if I was satisfied on another service for my daughter's Bug. I mentioned my dissatisfaction on this issue and he requested I bring the car back in for a complimentary check. Not only did they give the car a thorough service, they threw in a free Bilstein engine flush - complete with all filters and synthetic oil. Car runs like new, even gets about 10% better mileage. Makes me :rofl: !!!
Again thanks for all the advice and great information.

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