what is ERG?? where can i find it

i was reading another thread on rough ideling and hard starts...

The fix was cleaning the ERG with throttle body cleaner ...

i just dont know where the ERG is located or what it looks like ...

anyone got some pics. or somthing .. ??

my 98 blazer idles a little rough .. it has about 145k on it and its super strong ...

just idels a little rough .. so im guessin the ERG really needs to be cleaned ..

i put the key in the ignition and turn and it starts up right away but it starts hard ... any advice ??

thanks

i was reading another thread on rough ideling and hard starts...

The fix was cleaning the ERG with throttle body cleaner ...

i just dont know where the ERG is located or what it looks like ...

anyone got some pics. or somthing .. ??

my 98 blazer idles a little rough .. it has about 145k on it and its super strong ...

just idels a little rough .. so im guessin the ERG really needs to be cleaned ..

i put the key in the ignition and turn and it starts up right away but it starts hard ... any advice ??

thanks

The ERG is located in the front center of your intake. Here is a pic of what it looks like.
http://i114.imagethrust.com/t/829797/erg.jpg (http://i114.imagethrust.com/images/3tRP/view-image/erg.html)
Click Pic for larger image

ok so went to oriellys

got some seafoam ... it says you can clean airintake to get some carbon out with the seafoam...

i was told to find a vacuum hose and put in down into the can of seafoam and slightly rev the engine cause it will want to die out ...

i thought i found a vacuum line but when i told it off nothing reallly happend sooo now i need to know where the vacuum line is and is it safe to use this seafoam ???

and would anyone recomend another way to clean carbon out ..

ive heard i might see a lot of white smoke ???

ok so went to oriellys

got some seafoam ... it says you can clean airintake to get some carbon out with the seafoam...

i was told to find a vacuum hose and put in down into the can of seafoam and slightly rev the engine cause it will want to die out ...

i thought i found a vacuum line but when i told it off nothing reallly happend sooo now i need to know where the vacuum line is and is it safe to use this seafoam ???

and would anyone recomend another way to clean carbon out ..

ive heard i might see a lot of white smoke ???
You can try Water Cylinder Decarbonizing. Heres a step by step. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=283211
This works well.

ok soo where is the pcv located what does it look like ... none of those vids work..

You can prevent the carbon build up from going up in the EGR valve,some parts stores sell an EGR valve gasket with a filter in it and Carquest is one.I do not remember the part number out of my head.

You need to remove the EGR valve to clean it or check for carbon ball in it.
MT

ok so ... i know where its located .. do i need to just take the 2 bolts off and take the whole component off ....???

or is there an easier way ...

i mean is what i need to clean under those 2 bolts ??

ok cleaned it a little i guess ... there was lots of carbon in it ... no little carbon ball or anything ....

so should i try steam cleaning it through the pcv ... and i still have no idea what even looks like or where it is ...

ok cleaned it a little i guess ... there was lots of carbon in it ... no little carbon ball or anything ....

so should i try steam cleaning it through the pcv ... and i still have no idea what even looks like or where it is ...
When cleaning the ERG make sure that there is nothing obstructing and the plunger moves freely in and out. Once your done that reinstall the ERG with a new gasket and reconnect the wiring harness. Start her up and let us know how she is running.

Use a screened gasket for the EGR valve to keep the large pieces of carbon out. NAPA sells them if your regular parts store doesn't

alright guys .. did it ...

runs about the same ...

im thinking its a spark plug issue ... possibly a cap .. checked plugs and stuff .. look good ..

the plunger in the ERG was moving freely ..

i think im looking to hard

how do i check my distributor cap ... ??? can i just pull it off ... make sure the wires go back in the same place

how do i check my distributor cap ... ??? can i just pull it off ... make sure the wires go back in the same place
OK, You have 2 torx T-20 on the front and rear of the base of the cap. The easies way is to remove the plug wires on the right hand side first. Make sure you tag them. Closest to the front is 1, then 3, and 5 closest to the firewall. Now remove the 2 torx screws. Be careful not to drop them. Then gently lift the cap and flip upside down. Inspect the cap and rotor. Replace as needed. Reinstall in reverse. Check out this thread. Got some great pic on the distributor. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=881442&highlight=distributor+cap

ok how likely would it be the distributor ...

i mean isnt there a rotor on top that could be busted ??

how do you take that off to check

ok so heres whats going on from what ive determined ...

ive be steadily gaining speed and then all of a sudden as rpms are steadily rising they stop .. hit a stand still and it feels like im loosing a cylinder ?

happens around 2nd to 3rd a little shutter .. 3rd to 4th alittle shutter sometimes.

from 2nd to 3rd the rpms come to a stand still sometimes right at 3k and then pick back up after a second ...

i think im losing spark to a cylinder ??

but heres what makes it tricky some days it shifts perfectly never feel and shudder really peppy and quick ..

i can feel it when the car picks back up power to the cylinder if thats whats happening ... rpms are stuck and then whamo ! i feel the other pick back up and everything is good ...

and maybe this will help ... on start ups sometimes ill put the key in and it starts everytime but sometimes it feels like the car rocks back and forth real rock for a split sec .. its a hard start literally ... but others cant feel a thing ???? !!! ahhhhhhhhh

re-check your ERG Valve for more carbon chunks. Your motor could be releasing more chunks that could be breaking. Another thing you need to check is your fuel pressure. Take your pressure reading and let us know what you find. Your pressure should be above 60psi when you trun the ignition switch on and with the switch off. Your pressure should hold and stay above 55psi for 5 mins.

Heres some more feedback ….
I noticed it running bad when I started driving it the other day …. A little clunk switching from 2nd to 3rd and a little rough idle …
I also didn’t have any gas so I pulled up at the pump got half a tank and what do ya know … it ran awesome no clunk no rough idle. Nothing
But it only happens here and there …
The problem is not constant…
Heres something else …
After I added the seafoam the other night, the next morning it took a little more to get it started …
that’s twice after ive added seafoam that its done that …
Could it possibly just need a new fuel filter could something be clogging it … ??
I don’t know exactly what everyone talks about when they say the COIL ??
Could that be wrong …
Im going to the shop tomorrow in the morning …
What should I get tested on it ???
Ill bring this to the mechanic ….

Heres some more feedback ….
I noticed it running bad when I started driving it the other day …. A little clunk switching from 2nd to 3rd and a little rough idle …
I also didn’t have any gas so I pulled up at the pump got half a tank and what do ya know … it ran awesome no clunk no rough idle. Nothing
But it only happens here and there …
The problem is not constant…
Heres something else …
After I added the seafoam the other night, the next morning it took a little more to get it started …
that’s twice after ive added seafoam that its done that …
Could it possibly just need a new fuel filter could something be clogging it … ??
I don’t know exactly what everyone talks about when they say the COIL ??
Could that be wrong …
Im going to the shop tomorrow in the morning …
What should I get tested on it ???
Ill bring this to the mechanic ….


Proper testing is in order.
Do not try to tell the mechanic how to fix it.:grinyes:
IT IS HIS JOB TO FIGURE IT OUT.
Just tell the mechanic what it is doing or not doing and let him take it from there.
Let us know how it goes.
MT

ok so pump isnt holding pressure when its off ... time for a new one ..

everything else checked out .!

but the pump is 580 !!!!!


thanks for the help everyone

ok so pump isnt holding pressure when its off ... time for a new one ..

everything else checked out .!

but the pump is 580 !!!!!


thanks for the help everyone
I would'nt say its your pump that needs to be replaced. You'll need to open your upper Plenum and check for fuel washing inside there. It will have a gold tone color on the lower Plenum. Most times its going to be your fuel regulator that is leaking and causing the fuel pressure to go down. If not the regulator, then your fuel injectors. Either case. You'll need to check it out first.
Check out this thread to see what to look for. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=559014

Proper testing before throwing parts at it.
Was that a price on a GM/delphi oem type fuel pump parts and labor?
Do a little price shopping on the GM/Ac-delco/delphi pumps.

It can go either way.
Pump or fuel pressure regulator or both can cause a leak off.

Do a full fuel pump test.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
MT

i had the fuel pump tested

here are the readings ..


running then off .... 60 on , 0 automatically when turned off ...

fuel modulator holding no pressure ...

prices for fuel pump at local shop ...

$960.00 - pump and labor !!!

but i have a brother in law that owns a shop ..

so i got out of it for $500 straight up ...

oh well ...

good thing i didnt get have any gas in the tank ! ha


thanks for the help guys ...





drove it today 4/16/08 awesome !

You are welcome and thanks for posting back how it went.
Glad all is well and running good.

That 960$ is way to high for a fuel pump.