WIP :- Revell C6R LM 2005 GT1 Winner

Hi Guys,
This is the Revell C6R.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2372.jpg
I am doing the C6 in the Street Section at the moment as well. I have seen some nice buildups of C6R's on here, so I am not sure what I could add other than something nice (I hope :lol: ) to view. Mine will be OOTB, so I hope that doesn't offend anyone.

Anyways, lets step through where I am up to currently.
Here is my progress on my Revell C6R.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2332.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2331.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2334.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2349.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2342.jpg

I put on three wet heavy coats of Yellow. I rubbed back the body and polished it to a nice sheen. Glossy enough to do decalling. Here is the result.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2459s.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2460s.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_2467s.jpg

These Cartograpgh decals are great. Nice and thin. Didn't need any Micro Sol or a hairdryer. :wink:

After decalling was time for clearcoating.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_1136s.jpg
For this I used 2 Pack Clear as it is great over decals. This was the first time I have used this in 2 years(at least due to a modelling slump). When I opened up the small tin of hardener it had crystallized. So I had to quickly go to an Auto Paint shop and get some more to do the clear. It all worked out in the end.

I got stuck into the detail painting.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_1261.jpg

This is where I am currently at. Still have some more detail painting and assembling to do to finish the kit.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_1268.jpg

OOTB doesn't make for a totally accurate LM car, but I can live with it( If I can pretend it looks real, then I can certainly pretend it's reasonably accurate!...:-)

I'll incorporate modifications, corrections and semi detailing in a second kit later this year.

:cheers:
Nens

Nothing wrong with oob builds Nens - not when they look as good as that!:grinyes:

Keef

You're off to a great start! This is a really great kit to build although the alignment and ride height can be a real bitch! Are you in the US? Where do you pick up the 2 part clear from?

Also, strip the chrome and paint them a light gunmetalish color. Will look 100% better!

For this I used 2 Pack Clear as it is great over decals. This was the first time I have used this in 2 years(at least due to a modelling slump). When I opened up the small tin of hardener it had crystallized. So I had to quickly go to an Auto Paint shop and get some more to do the clear. It all worked out in the end.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/nenad_au/IMG_1268.jpg

very nice! my C6r is oob, and its a pretty good kit.

You're off to a great start! This is a really great kit to build although the alignment and ride height can be a real bitch! Are you in the US? Where do you pick up the 2 part clear from?
Also, strip the chrome and paint them a light gunmetalish color. Will look 100% better!


I live in Perth, Western Australia :aus:

I am using Croda Herberts 2 Pack MS-Clear (Gloss:Reducer:Thinner).
The company(Croda) has sold the refinishing section (Croda Herberts) to Dupont. So I am not sure if you can get the exact product. However, lengthy discussions with the Paint Salesmen informed me that there wasn't much difference between some of these top products.

Was purchased from a Standox Automotive Paint shop in Adelaide (South Australia).http://www.standox.com.au/

However, after working for a pigment producer, I have learned a few things about pigments. Go for a high quality manufacturer for hassle free painting. They will be using the best pigments and hence you will get the best results. Don't go for real cheap paints as the quality will be lesser. Some of the players before were Dupont, ICI, Croda Herberts, Sikkins, PPG, Standox. Anyway, it doesn't really matter which one you end up getting, but I tell you, they(Automotive Paints & 2 Pack Clear) are incredible. They add a new dimension to modelling. I sometimes use Tamiya Lacquers but that is it. I don't use enamels as my body paint.

Look up local Automotive Refinishers in your area and talk to them. Tell them what you want to do, and they can help sort you out.

Thanks for the tip on the rims. I'll strip them & repaint them.

Cheers for the encouragement guys. I hope to finish this and Black Beauty real soon.

:cheers:
Nens

I like it, looks great.

Nice work! What is it like the quality?

Nice work! What is it like the quality?

Don't mean to thread hijack Big Kahuna...

Jabel, this kit is great especially considering how cheap it is here in the US. With a little work, it builds up nicely. Off the top of my head, Enzo Envy and 953k3 have built some really nice ones and corrected some of the kits flaws. I'm going to post pictures of my attempts later as well.

Nice work! What is it like the quality?
Comparing the C5R to the C6R, the C5R kit is a better fitting kit that this C6R, so I will spend time detailing that one rather than this one. Other inaccuracies i have picked up after the fact include, the diffuser is only correct for the ALMS version. It is not correct for Le Mans. Same as for the rear wing support spacing. At LM they were further apart. I would also cut out the front mesh and replace it as it will not be that great after hand painting. The vent holes in the mirrors should be drilled through and also the NACA ducts on the rear end next to the rear window should also be the same as the body color. The instructions show this as black(as the ductwork underneath is a single molded piece.). The portion should be cut form this molding and glued to the underside of the bodywork, smooth out and seams and be painted the same body color. The doors didn't fit very well after clearcoating, so I had to shave off the clear coat inside the edges. There is a gap in the door edge that could also do with filling. The front hood is a poor fit and that could do with filling and correcting. All trailing edges are pretty thick, so you should thin them down for better realism.

I am not going to detail the interior on this one as it is black inside and you wont see hardly anything. Save your efforts for the outside and a different kit that is more visible.
It is a good buy though. I have a second one that I started and am incorporating the mods that I have mentioned.
Hope this helps.

:cheers:
Nenad

Thanks guys!

Another tip is I used when building mine was to cut the small body panel attached to the door loose then attach it to the main body and fill the seam. This will give your a more accurate separation line between door and body. The GTS decals should not be used because it's a defunct category that pre-dated these cars. It looks like the kit OOB is a presentation version not a race version. The exhaust shields should be rectangular not teardrop shaped. Slots need to be cut in the body for tow hooks. The front axle needs to be repostioned to get the tire correct in the wheel opening. The chrome should be stripped off the wheels and paint them with a bright silver paint like Tamiya Silver Leaf(TS-30).Decals had to be made for Klein Tools and the rear side marker lights.

Guys,
I need some help.
I ruined the rear window decals(Chevy Logo and Bose decals). when I decided to try and tint the inner part of the rear window after applying decals and well I tried in vain to protect them, but they have been chewed up.

Does anyone have a spare set they could send me please?

PM me if possible.

Great job Nenad, the clearcoat looks thin, like it should be. I agree to strip the rims but also the set-up seems a bit strange. I like this kit and any time I see the SM superTK I'm tempted, but the scale...

Guys,
I need some help.
I ruined the rear window decals(Chevy Logo and Bose decals). when I decided to try and tint the inner part of the rear window after applying decals and well I tried in vain to protect them, but they have been chewed up.

Does anyone have a spare set they could send me please?

PM me if possible.

Revell.com has a great replacement parts website (http://www3.revell.com/catalog/catalog/Parts-11-1.html); painfully slow, but good and it's only a few $$. Aren't you also building a street version as well? You could always grab the decal from that kit....

Yes. I am building a street C6. But that doesn't have the Chevy Logo and BOSE decals that go on the back of the C6R.

I was hoping some prolific C6R builders could spare a set for me if possible(would make life easier). Otherwise I'll manage somehow.

Thanks
Nenad

Yes. I am building a street C6. But that doesn't have the Chevy Logo and BOSE decals that go on the back of the C6R.

I was hoping some prolific C6R builders could spare a set for me if possible(would make life easier). Otherwise I'll manage somehow.

Thanks
Nenad

I thought the white Ron Fellows version didn't use the logo but the ref pic shows it on there. I thought you were taking another C6-R kit without any decals and making a street version. (That would be a pretty slick street car!)

Like this one?

http://www.badboyvettes.com/main/main.php?m=album&a=DBR9%20KLR

Actually, I was talking about one like this (http://prattmillerc6rs.com/) and video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfVsf6NxM-8&feature=related).

Like this one?

http://www.badboyvettes.com/main/main.php?m=album&a=DBR9%20KLR

Finished it....:runaround:
Check here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=5801482#post5801482)
Thanks for the support friends. Many thanks to John (AudiS6Avant) for your decals on the rear window. It was looking grim there for a while. Thanks matey!

For those of you who are lost in motivation, procrastinate, make excuses(like I had done for a long time). Just get in there are do it. Have fun, and whatever will be will be. Just have fun and sharing with friends helps the fun factor.

:cheers:
Nenad