New Car w/Pictures (coming)

Bodack

03-24-2008, 04:10 PM

SilvrEclipse

03-24-2008, 04:40 PM

The coil pack isin't your problem. Check for boost/vac leaks, bad MAF and IAT sensor.

Thor06

03-24-2008, 05:20 PM

Hook up 'link.

Blackcrow64

03-24-2008, 06:11 PM

Yeah, that definitely doesn't sound like the coil pack. Sounds more like some sort of air metering problem...

Bodack

03-25-2008, 10:10 AM

SilvrEclipse

03-25-2008, 10:57 AM

Car looks to be in pretty good shape. The engine bay looks a mess though. Good luck on getting it running.

david-b

03-25-2008, 11:40 AM

Looks good. I don't like that Camo VC thought at all. Looks spray painted and very cheap IMO. Get her running

JoeShmoe

03-25-2008, 11:59 AM

WTF??:lol::lol::lol: Camo?

Looks good, why are those power cables exposed? Amp setup? Get em taped up buddy.

SilvrEclipse

03-25-2008, 12:10 PM

WTF??:lol::lol::lol: Camo?

Looks good, why are those power cables exposed? Amp setup? Get em taped up buddy.

The power cables in the trunk are for rewiring the fuel pump. On the 1gens the fuel pump is under the trunk.

Thor06

03-25-2008, 12:13 PM

Damn dude, looks like you've got some work ahead of you. The outside looks clean though, so thats good. If that idle problem you say is what I think it is, its a problem with one of the sensors on the TB just during warm up... pretty sure its the ISC. It might be throwing a code, if you hook up DSMlink then you can check that code.

scottsee

03-25-2008, 03:19 PM

I got the car today as planned. The battery was dead when I got home, but that's fixed now. The immediate problem is what the guy was saying could be the coil pack. The idle is choppy, shoots up to 4000, back to 800, then to 3500 and it just keeps repeating. If the throttle is pressed it shoots up to 3500 then goes back down. So could a bad coil pack cause that at all? I obviously haven't hooked up DSMLink and all that mess yet since I just got the car but I will soon enough. I know this isn't the troubleshooting thread, but I have pictures so that's an exception right? I have to go to work in a while so I'll put the pictures up when I get back.

Thats the idle speed control sensor malfuntion or the fast idle valve. Either or can be diag'ed through Dsmlink. ISC can be set with the car off but ignition on.

Adjusting the ThrotPos.

There are several ways of adjusting the throttle positioning sensor. Adjusting the TPS, Calibrating an offset (explained later) and adjusting the cable. Lets start with the manual adjustment. It’s always important to rule out any mechanical issues first and foremost. Directly on top of the factory intake manifold you will find two (2) 10mm bolts holding the throttle cable bracket to the manifold. To adjust the slack/tension of this cable you will need to un-tighten the two (2), 10mm bolt's. Many times the throttle cables are overly tighten keeping the butterfly plate slightly open (ThrotPos 2%+). A sticking butterfly will cause a fast idle issue issue, and also a problem with the idle speed contol sensor. When untightining the 10mm bolts give it enough slack that there is obvious is no tension on the butterfly and check the ThrotPos value. If the value changes (closer to 0%) then you're on the right track. Adjust the tension of the throttle cable accordingly by sliding the bracket in the direction needed for adjustment and retighten.

Adjusting the RawThrotPos

2g TPS/ISC sensor are one unit. Opposed to the 1g where the idle speed control sensor is located on a different part of the throttle body. For many reasons, I’m sure, Mitsubishi decided to integrate the ISC function into the TPS. Understanding that the ISC is directly controlled via TPS voltage will help you tremendously in the diagnosis of inaccurate idle & stalling issues . Once the RawThrotPos reached around 35 the ISC is switched from on (1) to off (0) meaning the “IdleSW” will not control idle. Most of the time 2g TPS are not correctly aligned in the TB causing a higher/lower Raw voltage value then what is set for from the factory (32). Adjusting the TPS require you to either take the TB off on the 2g and adjust the TPS, or pain stakenilly un tighten the two 8mm/Phillips head screws enough to twist the TPS. (Both should be done while the car is off.) Hopefully your RawThrotPos will show 32 (ThrotPos=0% TPSvolts=.63) and won’t need to adjust the TPS sensor, but if you do, adjusting the TPS to the left is + voltage, right – voltage. Another reason why adjusting the TPS value mechanically instead of setting a value via TPS Offset box in DSMlink is because any value you add in the TPS offset box will change your true Raw value seen by the ECU effectively changing your IdleSW switch over points.

That said.. This is the formula for adjusting the TPS offset/scale for aftermarket TPS via RawThrotPos.
Deselect "adjust TPS" checkbox, log RawThrotPos and grab the values while the throttle is closed, and fully open. Use the following formual to ajust the offset/scale range of the TPS.

Offset = 0.1435 * Vo - 1.1435 * Vc

Scale = 255 / (Vo + Offset)
.
Vc = RawThrotPos when throttle closed
Vo = RawThrotPos when throttle open

Note: TPS voltage can very up to .03 volts from warm to cold so take into account when setting your TPS. I have personally experienced this and needed to adjust the TPSvolts to .63 when cold to offset the warm voltage, also, “Closed Loop” mode is seen by the ECU whenever the ThrotPos is over 92%. So tuning for 100% is a bit of a myth in the 2g. That said, please only adjust the TPS Offset in DSMlink for IdleSW functions or aftermarket TPS useages.

Adjusting Base Idle

Everything from here on requires a warm idle car. (coolant temps above 185 degrees.)
Setting the TPS/ISC sensors makes way for the ability to adjust the idle controls of your DSM. This section will touch on ISCPosition & LearnedIdle (BISS) adjustment, and will hopefully correct all of your ideling woes. DSMlink does have an idle adjustment of its own, but it does not control the ISCPosition, it only attempts to raise the idle points up to the users selected value. Meaning, regardless what you set your idle points via DSMlink you will still need to adjust the ISCPosition to set proper idle! When streaming a log you are looking for an ISCPosition of 30 and LearnedIdle of 140. Both functions use your BISS screw to adjust these values.

Whenever you first adjust your BISS it is advised to install a new BISS O-ring. After 10 years most of these O-rings are fairly warn, stiff and brittle. The last thing you want to do is spend 30 minuets adjusting the BISS and then realize you have a boost leak from the O-ring. It is extremely important to understand this is not a quick process. You will need to take your time, there is a lot of waiting involved with adjusting the BISS. ISC functions are tedious, they are extremely reluctant to lower learned idle values. It doesn’t seem to have an issue with quickly to raise the learned Idle. When my ISCPosition was at 50 it took a good half an hour of adjusting the screw, and letting it learn the new idle adjustment (about 5-10mins) before getting the correct values. I recommend reading the VFAQ, about specific instructions on adjusting the BISS. A good procedure is using half turns at a time. Anything within +/-3 is fine, it’s not rocket science. Note: If ISCPosition and LearnedIdle are significantly off might be a good idea to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and switching the ECU into Learn Idle mode.

Idle Switch

Alot of people have a hard time understanding Idle switch over, inclusing myself. ISC fuction can be broken into a few common sections and can be attributed to 90% of all low throttle hesitations, and stalling problems. As I mentined earlyier the typical 2g idle switchover point is around the RawThrotPos value of 35. At this point the 2g TPS/ISC gives up complete idle contole. It is impossable to tell exactly at what point the specific switchover point will happen in an indivigual car without logging TPS & IdleSW and seeing when the IdleSW switches from on (1) to off (0).

The DSMlink program offers the ability to manualy adjust the TPS sensor (shown above) but also offers a few choice abilitys to contol switchover .
Enable IdleSW: This function enables the use of ISC even when the ISC has malfunctioned and is not switching over. It will attempt to contole idle when the thottle is closed via timing.
Disabled while moving: This function uses the speed sensor to esencually deactivate the ISC while the car is moving. This will effect the 1500-1600rpm coasting fuel cut operations. It is the common cure for cars with low throttle hesitation from uncorrected TPS settings/vaules and aftermarket TPS sensors. Simulate IdleSW: This turns on the ISC function when a RawThrotPos value of 35 or lower is seen. This funtion is designed to be used with Enable IdleSW

steviek

03-25-2008, 03:25 PM

The camo is so you can win races while the other guy doesn't even know he's racing. Its similar to what 0-60 must do.

scottsee

03-25-2008, 03:28 PM

The camo is so you can win races while the other guy doesn't even know he's racing. Its similar to what 0-60 must do.

That camo is fuk'n siqqqq.

JoeShmoe

03-25-2008, 04:59 PM

The camo is so you can win races while the other guy doesn't even know he's racing. Its similar to what 0-60 must do.

:evillol: :evillol: :evillol: :lol: :lol: :evillol: :evillol: :evillol:

Bodack

03-25-2008, 09:00 PM

Thats the idle speed control sensor malfuntion or the fast idle valve. Either or can be diag'ed through Dsmlink. ISC can be set with the car off but ignition on.

(Un)fortunately I think you're right. I unplugged the IAC/ISC (i'm pretty sure the term is interchangable) and it was still doing the same thing. So I hooked everything back up and logged on dsmlink and now I have to start sorting through all the data. I'm going to try and get it registered to my name tomorrow so I can get access to the forums. But yeah I'm gonna try what scottsee said and maybe that will fix things. bleh.....

scottsee

03-25-2008, 11:09 PM

(Un)fortunately I think you're right. I unplugged the IAC/ISC (i'm pretty sure the term is interchangable) and it was still doing the same thing. So I hooked everything back up and logged on dsmlink and now I have to start sorting through all the data. I'm going to try and get it registered to my name tomorrow so I can get access to the forums. But yeah I'm gonna try what scottsee said and maybe that will fix things. bleh.....

I am correct.. That post explains exactly what it takes to fix your idle..

tfoti

03-25-2008, 11:18 PM

Bodack

03-26-2008, 01:04 AM

The silicone intercooler elbow after the j-pipe - is that hitting your alternator?
My punishment FMIC routes it the same way except its one solid tube, no elbow.
Mine touches due to the stock oil cooler lines.

Your timing belt looks shiny, not oil is it?

Nice find especially for a 1G.

No it's not oil. Although I need to get the cover on there desperately because my last 2 DSMs broke the t-belt while driving and I REALLY can't take another one breaking on me. And no the piping is mighty close, but it doesn't touch. I'm stoked about fixing it up. I ordered a serial -> USB adapter today and I'm just going to let the car sit until it gets here because I can't keep moving my desktop outside for a tune. Only at idle. Ghetto.

Blackcrow64

03-26-2008, 08:16 AM

Awesome dude, that car looks pretty clean for a 1g!... I hope ya get it running soon.

Bodack

04-04-2008, 12:41 PM

Hey guys I just wanted to do a follow-up. I thought all hope was lost, but I finally made a gasket for the ISC/FIAV blockoff last night and it fixed the problem like 90% of the way. There's still a vacuum leak I'm pretty sure but that's such an easy fix i'm not worried about it too much. I won't be driving the car for a month or two anyways. So thanks scottsee you were right on the money. Oh yeah...the car is fast as tits!

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