96 PA stalling problem

Hey all. I've got a 96 PA and after changing the fuel pump, 6 pack and module, fuel filter, plugs and wires the car keeps stalling on me. It'l run for about 10-30 minutes and then it'll stutter and then stalland after maybe 15-20 mminutes i can crank it and it'll run for about another 10-20. I've done a little research, but all i can think of is either a fuel line clog or a sensor somewhere. What throws me is that the only code the car is throwing out is a misfire in cylinder 2. Took care of that and still it stalls. Please some help would be appreciated. Could it be a crank pos sensor?

thanks, Guy

Did you have this problem before you changed all those parts? What precipatated the ned to change those parts?

It is possible the coil pak or module you purchased is bad. It appears something is heat sensitive ( either from engine heat or by electrically generated heat ).

If this was the original problem, then I would lean toward a bad crank position sensor. They will also fail intermittenly and restart after the engine/sensor cools a bit. See if you can get this to fail in your driveway. If you can then take a garden hose and spray water around the crank shaft pulley ( where CPS sensor is located ). If the car starts right up then the CPS is the problem. If it doesn't, then spray water on the new ignition module. Same goes for it. Do the same for the Mass Air Flow sensor between the throttle body and the air filter housing. Same results here also. All of these can give the same problem.

the reason i changed everything was because i bought the car and it was stalling on me after putting in a new fuel pump. bought it from an idiot who didn't disconnect battery wires before attempting fp repair. i pulled parts off of a working 97 pa with a shot engine. i believe it may be the crank sensor also, but i am afraid to tackle the sensor removal in this crummy ohio weather. i will let you know what happens after i put a new sensor in. thanks for the hints.

I know what you mean about the weather ( I live close to Indianapolis, Indiana ).

If you need some tips/info how to change the CPS, let me know and we'll have at it.

I would love some hints/tips on how to change the cps. hope to get into it today as it's supposed to be 45 and partly sunny.

Sorry I didn't get your message sooner. I had a very busy morning.

This has its hard ( technical ) parts so be sure to read it all before starting. You don't want pay to have it towed to a garage if you can't finish it.

1. You will need to remove the serpintine belt and remove the ground gable from the battery. ( If you have the electronic security on the radio, you will need to know your code to reprogram after a power outage. ) If you do not know the code you can just proceed. Just make sure allpower is turned off.

2. Jack up the front and place on jack stands.

3. Remove the front tire and splash panel in front of the crank pulley.

4. Remove the pulley from the harmonic balancer. Use a harmonic balancer puller that bolts to the balancer (not a gear puller as it will destroy the balancer) and pull the balancer off the crank. If you are luck it will slip right off with a little tug just ueing your hands. Set the balancer down on it's face! You will understand why later on in the directions.

5. Remove the 2 long bolts that hold the CPS bracket to the block. The sensor bracket also has a dowel pin in the center which can be very tight in the bracket. Be careful not to break or bend the dowel pin as it is the main locator for the CPS.

6. Installation is the reverse of the above except you need a special tool, available at some auto parts stores for rent, to gage the proper setting for the CPS. If you noticed the balancer had steel veins in a circular pattern inside. The CPS must line up to these veins with about .025 clearance side to side on each set of veins. Failure to set this distance properely can result in damage and failure of the sensor and/or the veins on the balancer. ( This setting can be reached mathmatically only if you have a set of dial calipers and feel comfortable determining the distance from the crank center line and the radius of the vein spread on the balancer. When you determine exactly where the first vein is, then you simply use that measure from the crank centerline to the center of the first sensor groove. When you have the sensor to this dimension, then you can snug down the sensor retaining bolt. Put some light moly grease to the lip of the crank seal. Align the balancer with key and push into place. Apply thread sealer to the bolt and tighten as specified. The rest is easy.

The torque specs needed are:
Balancer 2 steps: 1st-110 lbs. 2nd step additional 76 degrees.
Front wheel 100 lbs.

Again I am sorry my timing wasn't better for today.

Let me know if there are any questions.

actaully i do have a question. which way do you turn the bolt to loosen it?

Turn as if removeing any bolt. It will be hard to break loose. I have used a length of pipe on the end of the ratchet handle or a breaker bar and you may strike it with a hammer for some impact to break it loose. Once loose it should be finger tight.

Thanks Will Help, for your detailed procedure in post # 6; however, we should clarify a few things for the OP.

Remove the pulley from the harmonic balancer. Use a harmonic balancer puller that bolts to the balancer (not a gear puller as it will destroy the balancer) and pull the balancer off the crank. If you are luck it will slip right off with a little tug just ueing your hands. Set the balancer down on it's face! You will understand why later on in the directions. On this particular engine, VIN (K) the pulley is an integral part of the balancer and can not be removed! The balancer bolt is installed @ the factory with approximately 150 lbs ft and they also use Locktite on the threads which makes the removal process much more difficult. I use an ¾”air impact with 800 lbs ft rating @ 150 psig. Some folks use a 6-point socket with a long pull-bar with a cheater bar and wedge a large screwdriver in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning.

In addition, the balancer has a “interference-fit” tolerance on the crank and requires the use of a puller designed for this application. (See last pic below) Not all balancer pullers are the same! The correct 3-bolts to use in the front of the balancer are; M6 mm X 1.0 X 80 mm, NOT ¼ X 28 X 3-1/4. If you use a ¼ 28 bolt, you could strip the threads in the balancer. (¼-28 thread is a finer thread count/pitch than the M6 X 1.0) The bolts that come in most kits are not the correct bolts! You will need to find three (Grade-10.9 steel grade) M6 X 1.0 X 80 mm bolts at a hardware store @ less than $1.00 ea. Be sure to use hardened washers also!
6. Installation is the reverse of the above except you need a special tool, available at some auto parts stores for rent, to gage the proper setting for the CPS. If you noticed the balancer had steel veins in a circular pattern inside.
The CKPS used on these engines since 1993, is of the non-adjustable type and the dowel pin & bolts are a tight & secure fit. Unless the reluctor rings were bent on your balancer, you can simply bolt the CKPS on the same way the original was installed and reinstall the balancer.
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/9413/1996ckpshe8.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8169/1996balancerpp5.gif
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/8205/balancerpullergg0.jpg

thanks all, but i had it done for $116. unfiortunately the problem is still there, but theupside is that i can keep the car running but it is very sluggish (this is in traffic). once i get it into my driveway it stalled again. timing was suggested to me. any ideas?