2000 Camry VSV problem

I'm having trouble changing out my VSV on my 2000 toyota camry (4cyl) 5SFE. My check engine light recently came on with a P401 code. I looked it up in my haynes manual and tested the EGR, and other components, as well as changing out the gas cap. I narrowed down the problem component to the EGR VSV and located it on the back of the engine (a really cramped tough spot to work on).

Could somebody explain what components/parts i need to remove in order to reach the VSV on the back of the engine block?

You should be able to access it directly from underneath the car.

Did you test your MAP sensor?

the vsv is located by the gas tank

although the code for the vsv is the p0446

the vsv is located by the gas tank

although the code for the vsv is the p0446

The VSV for VPS is located by the gas tank. The VSV for EGR is on the rear side of the engine. P0040X codes all refer to the EGR system

The OP is not talking about the VSV for VPS to which P0446 refers.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=3203705&postcount=21

You should be able to access it directly from underneath the car.

Did you test your MAP sensor?


I raised the car and put it on jackstands. I traced the EGR hose to the VSV on the back of the engine block, but from underneath the car there's too much interference from other parts to reach the VSV. I can barely reach it.

Is there something underneath the car that i should remove to get better clearance to remove the EGR VSV?

Maybe you don't have to reach it. With an extension, swivel and socket, maybe you can get the wrench in there and loosen the bolt without touching it. Then, perhaps, you can disconnect the hoses and connection once it is hanging down.

Getting the new one back in may involve some shenanigans, but theoretically, the reverse of the above process is possible.

You are in a better position than we are to judge what component when removed will permit access with a minimum of disassembly. I have never had to access that part in a 4 cyl Camry. Perhaps you can test its function before you remove it to make sure it is the problem. (Did you test the MAP sensor?)

You should be able to access it directly from underneath the car.

Did you test your MAP sensor?
Re: Map sensor testing

This afternoon i tried testing the MAP sensor. As i was following the steps in my Haynes manual, I realized that i didn't know what backprobing was. Although i do have a handheld vacum pump, i don't know how to backprobe. So I couldn't get past step one.

Step 1: I checked the reference voltage fro the PCM to the MAP sensor. It read: off=0 V, on (with engine not running)=4.98V.

Step 2: The next step says to check the MAP signal voltage under simulated operating conditions. Reconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector and, using a voltmeter and suitable probes, backprobe connector terminal number 2 with the positive probe and terminal number 1 with the negative probe. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the sensor and connect a hand-held vacuum pump to the sensor. Turn the ignition key to ON (engine not running).

QUESTION: How do i backprobe when the connector is connected to the harness?? Am i supposed to be using some kind of wire?


Step 3: Apply vacuum to the sensor and verify the voltage from the signal wire increases as the vacuum increases (reference the voltage reading table)

Backprobing is just making the measurement by coming in with a fine probe (wire or probe) through the back (wire side) of the connector, instead of the front.

Here's the page from the Toyota FSM with a slightly different procedure.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5S-FE_MAP.jpg

Backprobing is just making the measurement by coming in with a fine probe (wire or probe) through the back (wire side) of the connector, instead of the front.

Here's the page from the Toyota FSM with a slightly different procedure.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/5S-FE_MAP.jpg

I will try testing the MAP using your directions tomorrow morning. I noticed that the directions say to connect my voltmeter to the ECM. Is the ECM the same as the PCM? I'm thinking the ECM is under the drivers side where my OBD code reader plugs in, however the PCM is supposedly to the right of the passengers glovebox. Hmm....

Am I looking in the right area? Of the 3 connectors, is it the long one to the left?
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q254/kewallal/100_0194.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q254/kewallal/100_0196.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q254/kewallal/100_0197.jpg

I think so, but it is hard to be certain. There are only one set of connectors on the ECM, so the only question is which side is the left side as shown on the drawing. If I remember correctly, the left side of the connectors in the drawing is the top side of the ECM. If you measure voltages with the key on and see the same voltage you saw at the sensor, you are on the right pair. You can't hurt the ECM by measuring voltages with a good quality digital VOM. Just be sure and not measure resistance.

Okay, i took off the cover entirely and it gave me a better picture. Are you still positive about which plug to test?

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q254/kewallal/ECM.jpg

The connector that is sticking out is still the only major connector and is apparently the one shown in the drawing I linked.

I never said I was positive about anything except that if you measure the voltages under the same conditions and obtain the same voltages, you can be sure you are on the correct pins. If you can't determine which pins to use, just back-probe the connector on the MAP sensor.

I'm having trouble changing out my VSV on my 2000 toyota camry (4cyl) 5SFE. My check engine light recently came on with a P401 code. I looked it up in my haynes manual and tested the EGR, and other components, as well as changing out the gas cap. I narrowed down the problem component to the EGR VSV and located it on the back of the engine (a really cramped tough spot to work on).

Could somebody explain what components/parts i need to remove in order to reach the VSV on the back of the engine block?
I fixed this VSV problem yesterday. My CEL has been on for months, and it seems like 90% of the time, a p401 code for toyota camry is a bad VSV.

As stated before, I used my code reader, pulled the code. Tested the EGR system with a vacuum pump which i rented from Autozone. According to the EGR testing procedures in my Haynes manual using the vacuum pump, my EGR valve was working properly as well as the EGR vacum modulator (right next to the EGR valve). So i suspected a faulty VSV for EGR. I called up my local Toyota dealership, and gave them the VIN of my car and asked them how much the VSV for my car was. It was $72, with tax the final price was $77. Sure enough they always have the VSV in stock at the dealership. I suspect it's because they always go bad. My problem was reaching the part, since it was on the back of the engine block...

JDMCCRIGHT posted back a response with this thread which was extremely helpful! Here is an excerpt of the link, however i added some helpful steps to save time.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/camry/73797-diy-camry-2-2l-2001-vsv/

P/N: 25860-74050

The tools I used:
1. 12 mm socket
2. 7" extension
4. 1/2" drive ratchet (about 12" arm long)

The steps are:
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Take off the passenger side tire. Raise the car.
3. Unplug the connector. (look at an angle from the tie rod up to the back of the engine)
4. Unscrew 12 mm bolt. (You can see the bolt but your hand may block your view while unscrewing it.) See attached picture.
--I used a 1/2 in drive ratchet and extension.
Placed the ratchet and extension on the bolt. I put my right hand on the head of the ratchet (where the ratchet and extension connect), the other hand on the ratchet handle grip. The handlegrip should be positioned closer to the center of the car. Your left arm should enter through a separate opening (near the center of the car) from the right arm. There are a few pipes running horizontally near the center of the car underneath. I held onto the ratchet arm and pulled DOWN HARD! (i tried 3 times, it finally budged)--
5. Move the vsv to where you can see.(Now you can see it.)
6. Remove one of the vacuum tubes and plug it to the same place on the new vsv.
7. Remove the other of the vacuum tube and plug it to the same place on the new vsv.
8. Move the vsv back. (Now you can not see it again.)
9. Screw 12 mm bolt back in.
10. plug the connector slowly until you hear a click sound (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/#).

BTW, It is very hard to reach it and most steps you can not see the vsv that you are working on. But if you know where it is, you can do it without seeing it.

--visit the link to view the pictures--
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/camry/73797-diy-camry-2-2l-2001-vsv/