Need help HOTWIRING my 89 F150 302

So funny story, the beater threw another curve ball at me. While at a friends house I tried to start it in order to move the thing and SNAP. I feel something "give" in the ignition tumbler and now it's loose. The starter switch inside broke and it won't let me crank it over anymore. I can use the key to unlock the column\shifter and then I have to short the solonoid under the hood to start it.

Understand, this truck is an 800$ bush beater special. I have no intentions of trying to change the ig lock for a new one. I am going to just build a switch in it's place and stick it on\under the dash. My question is this:

-where can I find the two wires needed to be crossed in order to start it INSIDE the cab. This is the -easiest- way to rig up the switch.

-if no one is sure where those two wires are, then what kind of gauge wire would you recommend to run in order to short the solonoid inside the cab. There's alot of V going through that solonoid so am I looking at 10ga wire in order to not have them melt down? Anyone know the actualy amp\volt I'm looking at here?

Any info would be great

"where can I find the two wires needed to be crossed in order to start it INSIDE the cab"

Where was the OE switch to start it located? In the steering column. There ya go.

I was in the same situation, except my truck had been stolen (with the keys in it) and the screw-up screwed up my key switch anyway.

10 gauge sounds about right, see what wires you are connecting - somewhere between 8 and 14.

10 gauge sounds about right, see what wires you are connecting - somewhere between 8 and 14.

K I rigged up an extension cord through the firewall to the "ignition" terminal of the solonoid and the power terminal. I checked with an ohm meter and saw 12v at 8-10a on avg. The cord is rated at 15-20amp and 120v, the switch is good to 20a as well and 275v. It was a pain in the ass to solder in -25deg though. I put some permatex on the joints to help seal out the elements. So far the test seems good, I flip the switch and it cranks. No wire burning or melting noted. I had originally tried shorting the two "big" terminals on the solonoid and MAN even 1-2sec of cranking made even 120v 20amp wire melt. Some big dog juice going through there I guess. Anyways so far so good. Now my truck has a "start" button like some fancy import lol.

Hey Canuck
Theres probably nothing wrong with your ignition switch or the lock cylinder( the part you stick the key in). Have a look here and you can see what it looks like on the inside:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/9e/94/0900823d800a9e94/repairInfoPages.htm
When you put the key in and turn it, that operates a small rack and pinion mehanism which operates the upper actuator(this is what unlocks the steering column). The upper actuator operates the lower actuator which pushes a rod down the top of the column and operates the ignition switch that is mounted under the dash on top of the column. This is the part that usually breaks(lower actuator) because it is made of cast aluminum, is a piss poor design and breaks easily. Scroll to the bottom picture in the link and zoom in, you can see the two pieces circled. If you want, PM me with your email and ill send you some good pics of one tore down.

When you turn the key and unlock the column, does the dash power up, are you getting power to the system where all you have to do then is jump the solenoid to operate the starter ? OR, is the system staying energized even when you turn the key off( the dash gauges stay on and everything is powered up) ? Sometimes this happens because when the actuator breaks the pushrod for the ignition switch stays pushed down( the ignition switch is actually still on). If you want cheap, and are not going to change the actuator(if thats the problem) or fix it, then just take the ignition switch off the top of the column, pull it down where you can get to it. Youll see where the rod goes in a small slot, put a screwdriver in there and push it and you can operate everything and start it from there.

If you have power when you turn the key and all youre doing to start it is jump the solenoid to operate the starter, then a small 5 amp or so switch will do that. The holding coil on the solenoid only draws about .5 - 1 amp. Hook the switch between the small terminal on the front of the solenoid to battery+ , a momentary switch is better for this.

Hey Canuck
Theres probably nothing wrong with your ignition switch or the lock cylinder( the part you stick the key in). Have a look here and you can see what it looks like on the inside:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/9e/94/0900823d800a9e94/repairInfoPages.htm
When you put the key in and turn it, that operates a small rack and pinion mehanism which operates the upper actuator(this is what unlocks the steering column). The upper actuator operates the lower actuator which pushes a rod down the top of the column and operates the ignition switch that is mounted under the dash on top of the column. This is the part that usually breaks(lower actuator) because it is made of cast aluminum, is a piss poor design and breaks easily. Scroll to the bottom picture in the link and zoom in, you can see the two pieces circled. If you want, PM me with your email and ill send you some good pics of one tore down.

When you turn the key and unlock the column, does the dash power up, are you getting power to the system where all you have to do then is jump the solenoid to operate the starter ? OR, is the system staying energized even when you turn the key off( the dash gauges stay on and everything is powered up) ? Sometimes this happens because when the actuator breaks the pushrod for the ignition switch stays pushed down( the ignition switch is actually still on). If you want cheap, and are not going to change the actuator(if thats the problem) or fix it, then just take the ignition switch off the top of the column, pull it down where you can get to it. Youll see where the rod goes in a small slot, put a screwdriver in there and push it and you can operate everything and start it from there.

If you have power when you turn the key and all youre doing to start it is jump the solenoid to operate the starter, then a small 5 amp or so switch will do that. The holding coil on the solenoid only draws about .5 - 1 amp. Hook the switch between the small terminal on the front of the solenoid to battery+ , a momentary switch is better for this.

Great info, thanks for the very detailed reply. From what I "felt" I'm sure that alum rod you mentioned snapped off. The lock was always very "stiff" to turn and last night was into the -30's or so and I definitely felt a "SNAP" when I turned the lock with my gorilla hands.

Overall the "wiring" I did seems to be working fine. I can crank and start the truck without issue and the wires don't "feel" hot or smell like burning like when I first ran them off both "big terminals" on the solonoid. <shrugs> It's an 800$ truck, it's just a bit more character having a "start switch" on my dash lol.

go to www.bulldogsecurity.com and click on the wiring diagram for your truck. You will need to find the 12 V constant and the starter, ignition and accessories wires. wire the ignition and accessories wires together into 1 wire (10 gauge) to a toggle switch. Splice the 12 V constant (DO NOT CUT THE WIRE, see www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm, go down to the "how to solder" section this is the type of splice needed) to the other end of the toggle switch for the power. Now with the starter wire hook this one up to a toggle switch that when you toggle it and let it go it will turn itself off. Also wire this to the 12 V constant. When you want to start the truck turn on the toggle for the ignition and accessories and flip the toggle for the starter. When it starts let go of the starter toggle to turn off the starter. The truck should stay running as long as the toggle with the ignition and accessories is turned on. When you flip this off it should shut down. To drive it though make sure you have your key in the tumbler to unlock the steering wheel. If any questions let me know.

I just love old beaters. I like the "Character" as you say. Keeping them alive is part of the fun.

I just love old beaters. I like the "Character" as you say. Keeping them alive is part of the fun.

U know it! lol

just take the ignition box off of the top of the steering column two small bolts might be a 9mm not sure it will be hooked to some wires leave them hooked up, inside the box there should be a slider just use a screw driver push it forward it will be a little hard to push to start but if it starts and runs just leave the switch hang to turn it on and off but you will still need your key in the column to turn the wheel.sounds like the key tumbler rods broke inside column all they do is push a long skinny rod back and forth on top of the column and it moves the inside piece of your ignition switch.and this way you don't need to hot wire it,

it is called the accuator in the column we changed ours the part cost $10+tax had to buy a pivot pin puller at kragens for a few more dollars you will need it if you do it yourself,
it took us about 2hours to change.

I think his toggle switch sounds cooler!! Just my 2 cents

I think his toggle switch sounds cooler!! Just my 2 cents

You know it.

Are we go for launch?

Check.

Firing!