Blowing intake hose off post-turbo '98 GS-T

Kind of a two-part question. I've tried turning the boost down on the EVO III big 16g but I'm not sure if I'm getting anywhere. What happens is occasionally, under boost(not sure how high but seems to be >17lbs) I'll blow the rubber hose off that clamps to the ducting off the turbo and ducting into the intake. Of course when that's off I can hardly drive the car.
What I worry might be causing this is the injectors are still stock and I'll get fuel cut around 4,500rpm. When it cuts, will it also block the flow of intake air causing it to blow the hose off or am I just pushing too much air in? I doubt the intake air gets blocked.
Also, with high-flow injectors, is it truly necessary to get the DSM-link or anything like that for mapping, etc?

Ok first 17 psi On the E316g Is WAY to much on the stock fuel system. You should really only be running a max of about 12 on that turbo. No your fuel cut isn't causing your intake (or intercooler pipe) not too clear which one you are talking about to happen. To solve the problem get better T bolt clamps and bolt them down TIGHT so it doesn't happen again.
Finally yes you will need a SAFC or link to compensate for bigger injectors or a maf-t works too but not worth it and difficult to tune. If you don't you will be constantly running rich and get terrible power and economy. Not to mention stock 2g fuel pump doesn't go that far either.

"Hey thor he is from minnesota maybe you got another one for the dsm north meet

Thanks for the reply. The ducting I'm talking about is on the boosted side of the turbo. Turbo to intake manifold. There's a rubber sleeve connecting two steel "ducts". I have some really stout clamps on there. The kind you use a wrench to tighten, not a screwdriver. And I'm still blowing that off.
Personally, I think(well I know) I have too much boost coming off the turbo. I've tried adjusting the boost controller way down. Seemed to make no change. I've tried adjusting the BOV. No change that I can tell.
Does anyone know of a base setting for the boost controller or BOV? i.e., crank it to the stops and then 3 1/2 turns out or something like that? I have no manuals. I'm planning on just de-rating my turbo down to 10-12lbs like stock so I can go WOT without fuel cut.

16g turbos are real bad about boost creep. If your MBC doesn't seem to be effecting the boost level then you are problably getting boost creep. You need to port the turbo to fix it. Also I dont know to many people who can run 12psi on that turbo no matter how much porting is done. I dont think the internal wastegate flows enough to keep the boost down that low.

Noob question....how do you go about porting the turbo? Also, without DSM-link is the performance that bad? I'm just trying to get it to stop fuel-cut so it won't spook the hell out of someone interested in buying it. But if it runs like trash that'd be counter-productive. What would be the suggested injector flow capability for a big 16g turbo? thanks

Well a maxed out e316g needs about 720cc's (stock 450cc) to still be on the save side. You may be hitting fuel cut or you may be hitting an ecu maximum value of 2.1g's of air /a revolution. At this point the car will jerk back it will feel like you hit something almost. The stock 2g ecu has a limiter which is designed to protect the car from overboosting (basically it was installed so that people didn't blow their engines while the car was still under warranty). Its hard to tell which problem is yours. If the engine hits a certain rpm level all the time under the same WOT and it jerks back then you may be hitting the limiter. If the car gets up in the rpm and then begins to shake violently and lose power and acceleration then it is more likely fuel cut.

About the porting. If you have to ask you probably shouldn't do it. It is a painstakingly long process. You need a air compressor with a carbide tip and it takes hours to gasket match and smooth. Not worth it normally for non enthusiast.
What you can do to help fuel cut is put in a walbro 190 fuel pump. It will improve the cars ability to have higher rpms without jeopardizing fuel economy on the lower end and is ok with the stock fuel pressure regulator. They are 90 bucks. If I were you I would put the boost controller on full close and see if you notice any boost reduction. If not your problem is likely just your wastegate not opening soon enough. Either that or maybe your boost controller isn't installed properly. Try hooking your wastegate straight to the factory boost control solenoid located underneath where the Air sensor is. It looks like to little nipples.
Good luck

also if you are unclear about which parts are where or anything like that refer to this guide
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/

I was told the car has an aftermarket fuel pump. It does make a noticeable whine/hum. Maybe that's not normal.
Most times when the engine cuts, it's just one sudden cough. I lift off the throttle(simply out of reaction) and then back into the throttle. One time I thought I blew something right off the engine. Not so I found. But mostly it's just up to 4,500rpm and "poof". So you're saying even with 720cc injectors I will likely hit the limiter for the ecu?
You're right, I won't be messing with porting the turbo. I do have a Greddy boost controller though and I'll try to back it all the way down.

This is a list of what I know that I have:

1G engine, E3 big 16G turbo, intercooler, cold air intake, Greddy BOV & boost controller, Apexi N1 downpipe, EVO III O2 housing, 3" turboback exhaust

What's the easiest way to post photos on here? That might be easier for everyone to see what I'm talking about.

are we talking an electronic boost controler or manual? i can have my gate open at 10psi, and i only creap a hair past 15psi at redline... (but mine IS ported...) actually, i can set it as low as 7 psi... but i still end up at 15psi at redline... so i just tuned for 20psi :thumbsup:

Manual. Takes a hex wrench. There are two modules I can adjust. One says Boost +/- and the other BoostXs, if I remember right.

best way to host photos is via photobucket.com

turn the boost controller all the way to the - side and see what happens/
The fact that you have an aftermarket exhaust and o2 housing doesn't help for trying to keep boost down as they do open things up a ton.

I used to hit the g/rev limiter on the e316 at 24 psi in third at about 5500 rpm or so on 550cc's injectors. It was really annoying as it prevented me from getting any good 1/4mile passes in.

Manual. Takes a hex wrench. There are two modules I can adjust. One says Boost +/- and the other BoostXs, if I remember right.
do you have access to a tire pump/air compressor/anything of that nature? this my sound funny but this is what i do to set my boost controler...

pull it from the car with the vac lines attached to the boost controler.

hook up the boost side (usually the side, and opposed to the bottem) hook the line up to your pump.

push the pump/air compressor and keep your eye on the pressure gauge you will here when the boost controler opens be sure to have the hand twist adjustment turned 5-7 times (+), then adjust the hex screw as needed to reach you desired boost pressure (low teens in your case)


then start the drive, adjust, drive method for fine tuned boost pressure

this takes about 3-5 mins and is much faster then the drive, ajust, drive adjust method alone... :2cents:

keep in mind your turbo is still creeping, so just because the gate is open doesnt mean your boost will hold steady...


as for the pipe blowing off, nothing a little hair spray and come elbow greese cant fix! spray that bitch down and clamp the hell out of it! do you have a beeded lip(buldged up at the ends) if not this could be your problem... you can just frey the pipe outword with some vice grips... works GREAT!

Dave thats a really smart way to set your mbc, i'm definately going to give that a try come spring.

I don't know how your connections are coming apart if you have decent clamps on there. Do the hair spray and clamp the shit out of them and also make sure that the pipes are lined up directly inside the coupler. That could be your problem.

Dave thats a really smart way to set your mbc, i'm definately going to give that a try come spring.
works wonders, but you have to have the +/- thing turned up a little because the gauge in your car is reading manifold pressure not the pressure from the turbo, so fine tuning is still needed... ;) i have found that when setting my MBC using this method to 20psi, when i put it all back together and did a 3ed gear pull, i was actually closer to 25psi... so i had to turn the hand adjust down 3-4 turns to get it right at 20psi... entire process took less then 20 mins... went from 15psi, to 20psi... and only had to do 3 pulls before i was RIGHT on the money! :smokin:

keep in mind, i did this with a bike tire hand pump and just "pressed" the vac line into the connector on the pump, and didnt "latch" it, it worked more or less almost perfectly! i also had to push the pump very slowly because quick pressure changes will void the process since the pump will move more air then the MBC can move at a given time... when the boost controller opens, it will make an almost "buzzing" sound... just FYI... mine was really quiet and i had to actually put my finger just after the MBC's outlet to feel when the valve was opening...