I thought it might be interesting to start a "what I've had to do" for my 2000 LX 3.8, 124,000 km. If it's happened to 1 owner, it's likely to happen to another. Being proactive with my auto repairs I thought maybe others would like to tag on to this list. Kind of a way to see what may be in our futures from a repair point of view. So, in no particular order:


- PO 171-174 repair as stickied above
- transmission range sensor
- rear shocks
- alternator
- battery
- starter
- serpentine belt
- brakes - pads, drums once, rotors, pads twice
- radio
- spark plugs, wires
- the usual oil, trans, brake fluid, fuel and related filters

Due up, struts once the weather warms up a bit.
:2cents:

My 2000 3.8...

--50k miles--
Fuel pump
--60k miles--
Both inner tie rods
--80k miles--
Both outer tie rod ends
Low/intermediate servo Cap on back of tranny blew a bolt and leaked tranny fluid, had to tap/fix.
Radio shorted, found it had coins in tape deck
--90k miles--
Right inner tie rod
Tensioner Pulley Bearing
Idler Pulley & Bearing
Drive side sliding door/gas door safety mechanism broke

TO DO SOON: Wheel bearings

Our family's 99' 3.8 @90k mi:

Ignition Coil
Driver's door latch
Pass silder latch
CD player
3rd set of control arms
Steering rack
Front ABS Sensors
Alternator
Tensioner
Wheel Cyclinders
Starter
Valve cover
EGR Valve
Transmission Rebuild
Tie Rod Ends
Stab Links

All I can remember off the top of my head

Still Needs:
Isolater Bolt Fix
ABS Module
Lift Latch
And recently something his causing vibrations at highway speeds
(too cold to diagnose)

We have kept regular maitenance (brakes, trans flush every 30k, tires, etc)
Would have sold it already but its not worth anything anymore, drivers rocker and silder have rot on them now.

Kahjdh,
You win with the most repairs , uh, sounds like you lost.
You could have(or should have) bought another van with what you had to spend on it!?! You should see if Ford should cover that under warranty or a lemon law. My condolences for your financial loss and frustration.

The only major stuff on my '01 with 80,000 was the isolator bolt (no codes, but did it anyways since the plastic upper intake was rattling and had to come off and I replaced it with a newer 1 piece design) and a soon to be replaced tensioner/ idler pullies.

Did the front brakes twice, rears once and the rear shocks once.
New plugs at 54K and all the regular PM stuff.

At just over 100K miles, my 2000 Windstar LX 3.8 has done fairly well in the engine department:

- Isolator bolt fix (isolators, updated valve cover, regulator vacuum fitting, etc.)
- DPFE

Anything else (belt, battery, plugs, filters, etc.) I'd categorize as maintenance. That's right: starter, water pump, etc. are original.

No transmission work. Though I'm anal about changing transmission fluid, and I added an auxiliary transmission cooler (I tow a popup camper). Halfshafts, CV joints and boots are original (I've learned: A periodic light coat of CV joint grease on the *outside* of the boots helps them last a long time).

Interesting: No exhaust work. But in Maryland we don't usually get too much road salt...

I consider brakes to be maintenance; I've replaced a typical number of shoe/pad/rotor/drum items for 100K miles. I did have problems with one wheel cylinder; but that's not unusual for the mileage. Calipers are original.

I did have problems with the ABS - but discovered it was only the electronic controller portion, which I was able to replace independent of the hydraulic unit, without opening the brake lines.

Shocks and struts have been replaced once (did the struts myself; not a terribly difficult DIY job if you're willing to get dirty). Again, I don't consider this unusual.

From this forum, I learned about some of the weaknesses of the tie rod ends and lower ball joints - so I've made it a point to grease them using the grease gun needle method. All are original; no problems.

The only place I've been really annoyed with my Windstar in the repair area: Both the front and rear A/C evaporators failed. I don't have the equipment for A/C work; each repair was in the area of $900. Ouch.

'01 Winnie with 165k miles
Battery
Rear shocks
DPFE
Isolator bolts
F&R brakes, front rotors and hardware (previous pads had no clips, pad slipped and literally chewed up the rotor)
Blend door motor
Exhaust hangers

No car (or van are perfect) and a lot of those repair are normal on a 6 o7 year's old vehicule, no matter which model it is. My 2001 has now 296000 km
(185 k miles in "us currency iI can say :):):) ) and her is my list.
Front and rear brake pad et shoes + hardware and 2 rear wheel cylinder
Alternator
Startor
DPFE
Spark plugs (has to be done 2 times because wrong number installed the first time
Spark plug wire
regular tune up parts and associate parts
pollen filter
Ignition Coil
Stabiliser bushing
Sepentine belt
Tensionner + idler pulley
Rear shocks
A few bubble light because burnt or black
all radiator hoses.
Front right wheel bearing
Transmission filter 3 times

To be replace soon: water pump and all relate tubes ( steel tubes that are t rusted, close to be rotten) I bought everything and just wait hot temperature
I live in the Montreal region
Stabiliser bushing for the second time or maybe the bar too that I suspect beeing used where the bushing are.
2 times I have sent the van for very minor rusted parts on the body.

I would like to keep this van as long as I can, so almost every repair here has been done as a preventive care except for a few repair ( alternator and startor) I hope the transmission will not break, the only problem I have with it is that I have to wait about 20 sec before putting it in drive ( possible low pressure) and this last since 1 year

I like this van and I do not have any complaint. However as any vehicule it need attention and good care.

And I forgot, CEL on and my code reader indicate the well know PO 171/ 174
So this has to be done too

2000 3.8L Repairs in chronological order

Brake on/off switch - Disassembled, slightly bent contact & cleaned, was staying on when cold.

DPFE - Dealer repaired around $160.00. Not bad for a 15min repair, have read in a thread that some dealers will cover cost of part. Bought a generic code reader after that one.

"U" shaped vac hose from fuel press reg to upper intake.

Wheel cylinders - one had a torn dust boot.

Upper intake isolator bolt/intake gaskets - also replaced plugs and wires at that time.

Outer tie rod ends.

Leaking block heater - Never realized one was installed until it starting leaking. At that time also replaced upper/lower rad hoses & t-stat.

Camshaft synchronizer - replaced while chasing down and intermittent stalling/bucking problem. Was not the source of the problem. Also replaced tensioner pulley while it was off.

MAF Sensor - Replaced with boneyard unit, was the source of the stalling/bucking problem, never set any codes.

Drivers side door lock actuator

Transmission overhaul - $1489.00 Torque converter clutch not engaging. Will change fluid & filter annually now.

Alternator - Installed 4 remanufactured alternators before I got a good one.

Power steering flush - Cleaned filter in reservior

Stabilizer bar bushings

The other usual stuff - tires, serp belt, battery, pads, front rotors - had originals resurfaced once.

2000 3.8 110,000 mi. The only non maintenance items on mine have been the fuel pump at 50,000 mi. and the tranmission at 104,000 mi. The transmission failure was kind of a fluke thing because it ended up being a flaw in the tranmission housing casting where the OD servo mounts. Its a part that normally doesn't fail. It caused a low pressure condition when in overdrive.

I keep a log of all my vehicles. We got our 2000 Winnie in 2001 with 20420miles on it. Other than the tie rod ends, I've done all the work so far.....

I won't bore you with the usual engine oil/air filter changes. Oil/filter is always changed between 3-4K.

42658 - 1/17/04 -Trans oil/filter
53900 - 7/20/04 - Brakes/rotors, right rear brake cylinder, DPFE Sensor
56704 - 11/18/04 - Spark plugs, RTV'd inner plenum baffle to stop noise
56817 - 12/1/04 - Tie rod ends
57252 - 12/23/04 - Flush PS Fluid, fuel filter
63709 - 10/6/05 - Radiator flush
64965 - 12/17/05 - Drivers door lock actuator
75318 - 11/22/06 - P171/4 codes, isolator bolt kit
76317 - 12/16/07 - Flush PS fluid
84126 - 5/12/07 - Front pads, turn rotors
84509 - 5/24/07 - Trans filter/oil*
92096 - 12/31/07 - Belt tensioner and belt
????? - 1/25/08 - Power mirror switch
92965 - 2/10/08 - Spark plugs

Here's what is coming next:

1. PS pump has slow leak

2. *Maybe a trans rebuild. On the 84509 trans fluid/filter change, I found several small (tiny) roller bearings and parts of the bearing cage in the pan and in the filter. I know what caused this. When we lived in Oregon, our driveway was at an incline. Whenever shifting from Park to Reverse, the tranny would bang real loud because the incline put a pre-load on the tranny. We used the parking braking alot to help take the pre-load off the tranny but it would still bang. I suspect these tiny rollers are from the shift linkage inside the tranny. I suspect the bearing broke in 2005 @ the 55000 mile mark. I found it at 84509. I have 92965 miles and it has not cause any problems. Until I have any problems with the tranny, I was going to let it go as is. I estimate it's got approx 35000 - 37000 miles since the bearings dropped.

I suppose the lesson learned is avoid parking on inclines.

Has anyone found these tiny roller bearings in their trans pan?

John

2000 Windstar 160 000km. All the typical check engine codes valve cover MAF sensor etc. Maybe $1000.00 all total.Front pads twice. 4 wheel brake job including drums rotors shoes and pads with rear wheel cylinders just recently. Typical maintenance items other than that. I am having troubles with the defrost, panel floor seletor.(possible vacuum leak). I have not change the transmission fluid at all and have not had any problems with the transmission. I have owned the van from new and I am very pleased with it.