95 Talon - Headlights don't turn off

Yesterday morning and my headlights were on. The switch is off, but the lights remain on. I pulled the fuses and relays for the headlamps under the hood, nothing. The only thing that shuts them off is disconnecting the battery.

I have heard that it could be the multi-switch (lights, turnsignal) that goes bad. I have a 95 parts car that I pulled the switch from and still nothing. Is it possible that both switches are bad and getting a brand new one is the fix to the problem, looking for some help.

Thanks.

Wow, that is a rather odd problem... Pulling the fuses should have done the trick. Had the car ever been tore apart and something reconnected wrong maybe? To me, that doesn't sound like the switch is the problem if the fuse won't even discontinue power to it... If for some reason it is the switch, then that would be by far one of the strangest problems I've heard of...

I did have a frontal crash and had everything replaced. This was a few months ago and I have been driving without issues since then up until yesterday (Thursday 1.10.08). When I got home from work on Wed. night they shut off, when I woke up Thursday to let my dog out, they were on.

Here is a rundown of what I did. When I noticed the lights were on, I tried to turn the switch on and off to see if that made any difference. All that happens when I do that is the indicator lights, dash lights, tail-lights come on when the switch is on, but turn off when the switch is off - headlights remain on. The brights will turn on, the turn signals function just like normal.

After doing that, I started checking the fuse box. I pulled the fuses for the headlights, nothing. I pulled the fuse for the taillights, nothing. I then pulled the fuse and relay for each, nothing. After doing all of that, I started taking fuses out one by one and putting them back in to see if anything happened. When I pulled a fuse that is labeled for power windows (my car doesn't have Power windows) they shut off. I then assumed everything was ok and proceeded with my day. I later went back outside and they were on again and that fuse was still out. So back to square one.

My dad works in an automotive shop and everyone there said it was the switch. They are convinced it is the only thing it could be, so I pulled the one from a parts car I have, still nothing.

And that is where I am.

Wow... Yeah I would definitely say it is not the switch.

First reason, I have never heard of a bad switch causing that to happen. Second reason, the switches very rarely go bad in these cars (or at least you rarely hear about it) and if they do then nothing works at all.
Third reason, even pulling the fuses and relays cause nothing to happen, meaning your problem lies way before the switch and even before the relays.
Fourth reason, you finally got them to go out for some strange reason via the power windows fuse and they later came on automatically. Something has to be kicking on in order to cause this to happen. Do you have an alarm system in it?

I can most certainly tell you that this is purely a bad wiring job. For what reason and how, I do not know... I'm just trying to figure out what would be causing it to kick on like that...

I've got an idea... If you do have an alarm system, did the hood sensor button get broken off of its plastic mount? Mine did and it would cause the thing to go off at random times. Also a bad ground on one of the door sensors could be causing it to come and go like that... That is assuming that this is somehow linked to the alarm system being the cause of the automation of the problem...

I hope this gives you some ideas of what to check...

No alarm on this car. I am starting to thing, if the fuses didn't do it, and the switch didn't do it, somehow the headlights are still receiving power from a hot source somewhere in between the Fuse/relay box and the switch. Just not sure where it could be coming from and how this would randomly happen over night.

Hmmm... I can't understand how else it would be coming on at random... Did you ask the place that repaired it if they could have connected something wrong? (Of course expect them to deny it. lol)

Fixed the car myself with family, dad and uncle - both are bodyshop workers and a friend that is a former chief mopar mechanic. We never unhooked any wires other than disconnecting the battery when we did the repair. We checked the wire harness and any wires that were near the damaged area for breaks, crimps, etc. I have been driving the car for a good 3 or 4 months since we did the fix and never had this issue until yesterday. The lights aren't coming on at random, they are always on now unless I take the battery off.

Do you have any type of alarm system on the car?

Do you have any type of alarm system on the car?
Been there, done that. No alarm on the car. :wink:



minard, I was talking about it coming on at a random time in the middle of the night on you and then again even after you pulled the fuse and they came back on after a while. That is the random I was referring to. lol

I really don't know what else you could check... I mean, that is one of the strangest problems I have encountered in a looooong time...

that is one of the strangest problems I have encountered in a looooong time...

Um, yeah. I'm gonna try to make some calls to some Chrysler dealerships and see if they still have any information on the Eagles.

If anyone has any other ideas, I am still open for suggestions.

O shit, I saw that you asked the question but I must have skipped over the post where he answered it.

You could always just keep pulling fuses till they dont come on anymore. Something has got to be giving these lights power. You replaced the switch so it has to be somewhere between the switch and the bulb that a wire must be crossed giving these lights power.

Do you have to have hyperwhite bulbs in?

Pretty sure they are standard Sylvanis lights. The fuse that I pulled was for Power Windows, which my car doesn't have. That turned them off for a period of time. I later checked on the car, while the fuse was out and the lights were back on.

So pull more fuses until they go off.

I was asking about the bulbs because some people run high wattage bulbs and it can melt your wiring harness which could make a connection with other wires in your case.

Damn, my brain is working hard but I can't come up with anything......power windws. Aha, if you do not have power windows the you should not have a port in which the fuse should fit. Do you guys get it?

Damn, my brain is working hard but I can't come up with anything......power windws. Aha, if you do not have power windows the you should not have a port in which the fuse should fit. Do you guys get it?

Not entirely true. I know the RS and GS use the same fuse block even though my car didn't come with power windows it has a slot ..empty of course for a fuse for the power windows.

I meant it has a space for the fuse, but it does not have wiring in there. The fuse would not be connected to anything.

I meant it has a space for the fuse, but it does not have wiring in there. The fuse would not be connected to anything.
Actually, all the wiring would be there... They mass produce the cars when being built, so why run several completely different assembly lines for all the different options available when you can simple crank out x amount of bodies that are all wired and fitted and are ready to go right off the same line to different lines for different trim models. It would be senseless and not cost effective to have 10 different assembly lines for just wiring specifics when you could just run 1 line and make them all the same. Ya gotta remember, from there they split to several other lines as they near completion. The bottom number is all they care about in the office. I'm sure it costs a lot less to run a few extra feet of wires in every car than it does to employ an extra 100+ people on that line plus have the floor space for it and such...

Just a little overview of that subject... :smooch:

Actually, all the wiring would be there... They mass produce the cars when being built, so why run several completely different assembly lines for all the different options available when you can simple crank out x amount of bodies that are all wired and fitted and are ready to go right off the same line to different lines for different trim models. It would be senseless and not cost effective to have 10 different assembly lines for just wiring specifics when you could just run 1 line and make them all the same. Ya gotta remember, from there they split to several other lines as they near completion. The bottom number is all they care about in the office. I'm sure it costs a lot less to run a few extra feet of wires in every car than it does to employ an extra 100+ people on that line plus have the floor space for it and such...

Just a little overview of that subject... :smooch:

I know all that, its common sense. I simply made the suggestion cause mine doesn't have anything in that slot. I see wires runnin to the other relays and fuses but nothing drops off in the PW slot.

I know all that, its common sense. I simply made the suggestion cause mine doesn't have anything in that slot. I see wires runnin to the other relays and fuses but nothing drops off in the PW slot.
Really? It should be there still...

Update to the problem. I disconected the mulitswitch and reapplied power to the battery, lights still on. I pulled every fuse, lights still on.

Correct me if I'm wrong, this makes me think that somewhere after the fuse the headlights are still receiving power, I just can't think of where it would be from.

Update to the problem. I disconected the mulitswitch and reapplied power to the battery, lights still on. I pulled every fuse, lights still on.

Correct me if I'm wrong, this makes me think that somewhere after the fuse the headlights are still receiving power, I just can't think of where it would be from.

Yeah, sounds like someone must have spliced something wrong.

I would trace the wires back from the bulbs and see if you can find anything

To add on to Jason's post, pull ALL of the fuses out and then take a test light and keep poking the headlight wires all the way back as far as you can, you should be able to find the spot where they've rubbed together with another wire or where they're getting their power from.

To add on to Jason's post, pull ALL of the fuses out and then take a test light and keep poking the headlight wires all the way back as far as you can, you should be able to find the spot where they've rubbed together with another wire or where they're getting their power from.

Bingo

For some reason I remember this as a symptom of a dying alternator, which causes problems you wouldn't even believe they're so bizarre. Worth a shot, but I reserve the right to be wrong.