Jumped and ran like a champ...

Weird title I know. Here's the story.

My car hates winter and battery dies all the time because of it blah blah blah. I got a jumper thing and been using that. I went out yesterday and of course it was dead so I jumped it. The charger had very little juice so it took a minute to get the car running. That battery on the car wasn't completely dead like it's been lately, so I pretty happy.

I started going, and the car ran great. When I let off the gas, idle dropped to perfect right away. It was super smooth, and ran like a champ. I pulled up to a light right down the block and had to rev to keep th rpms from falling bad, and it still ended up dying at the light. I started up, pulled aside and let it idle.

Then I started going again and it ran perfectly for awhile, maybe a mile or 2, and then it went back to how it always run. Rpms take a long time to fall. Have to come to a complete stop before I can hit idle... the usual problems that I always have.

So my question is, what the crap happened? Why it run super great (except for the dying part) when the battery wasn't 100% charged and just jumped, and not have done like that all the times before. Does this make sense to anyone? It was nice having her act like a virgin all over again.

Have you tried changing ECU's yet?

If the battery keeps losing charge, it may be wiping out the PCM's memory and causing a re-learn type procedure. and insufficient amperage for the ignition system.

Step one is to identify the drain issue. You can put a test light or ammeter inline on fhte negative side of the battery, and start pulling fuses one by one, when the light goes next to out or the amp drwa is reduced to around .250A you've located the circuit with the drain issue. This is of course assuming the basics have been covered and the cables/connections are clean tight and free of cracks and breaks :2cents:

If the battery keeps losing charge, it may be wiping out the PCM's memory and causing a re-learn type procedure. and insufficient amperage for the ignition system.

Step one is to identify the drain issue. You can put a test light or ammeter inline on fhte negative side of the battery, and start pulling fuses one by one, when the light goes next to out or the amp drwa is reduced to around .250A you've located the circuit with the drain issue. This is of course assuming the basics have been covered and the cables/connections are clean tight and free of cracks and breaks :2cents:

The battery has been losing charge every winter, every other day (if not driven). I know when the ECU gets whipped because it acts different, but never like this though. This was the first time ever it's been like this.

Have you tried changing ECU's yet?

Didn't see this one... it's on its way!

The battery has been losing charge every winter, every other day (if not driven).

I'd be taking advantage of this weather and finding the cause of that before changing anything out. :grinyes:

Ya I've had no luck with it. There's no shorts anywhere, no alarm, no remote start... nothing. Battery is brand new, charges fine, every thing's great in the spring, summer, and fall. Just when it gets cold it won't hold. And that's why I have the jumper.

Okay, forgive my ignorance but what is your engine size in cubic inches?

And the CCA rating of battery?

121.8 cu in and the stock battery is rated at 430 CCA

IIRC, Dave bought the biggest CCA's he could get in that battery type.

Well dang it :( There went a perfectly good explanation. :sorry:

Okay, read up on your other thread regarding this and took note to a number or folks having the same type problem. So, I have yet another question due ot lack of experience with the vehicle, is the battery exposed to the extremes, via dirct wind contact through the wheel well or anything?

Maybe a battery 'blanket' may be in order. You know, it's a foam wrap kinda like a mini igloo cooler the battery sits in to insulate it, makes sense :dunno:

Okay, read up on your other thread regarding this and took note to a number or folks having the same type problem. So, I have yet another question due ot lack of experience with the vehicle, is the battery exposed to the extremes, via dirct wind contact through the wheel well or anything?

Maybe a battery 'blanket' may be in order. You know, it's a foam wrap kinda like a mini igloo cooler the battery sits in to insulate it, makes sense :dunno:

The battery sits right next to the drivers side strut tower right up on top. Doesn't get wet or anything, but does have good air flow going right to it from under the front of the hood.

I was actually thinking about something like that. Or like wrapping it up in a towel or something. Maybe I should try to find something like this, but there's not a lot of space to work that in.

And yes I have max cranking you can get on a Die Hard. I can't remember what any numbers are, but there was an 85 somewhere... probably had nothing to do with the battery itself :) Sad that I don't know this.

Didn't see this one... it's on its way!

Should be there today or tomorrow :P

Also when the ECU gets wiped from removing or drained battery all the ready monitors have to be reset through drive cycling and it can throw off signals from o2 , temp , evap , catalyst , etc until they are set properly and fully active / functional.

Ya that I know. BUT as I said above, it's never been like it was yesterday. Like it wasn't even close to anything before. I should know, I drain my battery all the time and have it unplugged a lot.