'97 3.1 GT bleeding cooling system properly

I did search and read a few threads on this subject. The bleeder valve seems to work fine but I ran it last night for about 20 mins and never got a constant flow. My analogy was it seemed like one of us guys finishing up peeing and and getting that last little bit out, squirt a bit, stop, squit a bit, stop, sorry about that but that is the perfect example :screwy:

So my few questions:

I did unscrew the little threaded hex bolt but did not remove it, it was still spitting water out the side but should I just remove it completely? Or does that matter?

I replaced the Radiator so I know I am looking for a constant flow from that valve how long should I expect to take to purge the system? After 20 mins of running it was still very much just spitting not a constant flow.

Can I leave the overflow cap off to make not to run it dry, or is there some effect if it is left off? I guess a smart man would get a piece of hose and run it back to the resevoir. Anyone know the size ID that fits well over the bleeder valve?

Thank you in advance.

hi there my car is a 96 same engine-i noticed the same thing when i changed coolant, and at first i was concerned. once i checked the upper, lower, heater hoses and they were all same temp, and the heat gauge was in range so i took the car for a drive to make sure no air lock symptoms-then i called it good and that was 6 months ago

Welcome to AF arkansasbowman.

Sounds like you about got all the air out, just open the bleeder if air isnt coming out close it, wait a couple minuntes then try agian. Reving the engine a little will also help push the air around.

Make sure your heater is on also, or it will take for ever and you'll not get all the air out .

You can use a small clear hose, remove the center bleeder, place the tubing over the larger fitting(might clamp it down w/hose clamp) and run it to the coolant resv.
Run the engine untill its a solid stream going through the tubing.


Hope that helps !

thank you, appreciate it.

I am hoping that it is not a blown head gasket. The car is still running very well but not cooling properly.

Poor thing though has some troubles. The instruments all went out at one time so no gauges to check.

It has been leaking a bit from the LIM area, but apparently that becomes the norm after time.

The latest and biggest is the Radiator tank split and it overheated. I replaced it and now it seems like it trying to blow the water back up out of the reserve tank. So I am hoping that the problem lies in an air lock due to air.

If you continue to get air after trying the hose idea, it's very possible that the head gasket is blown, especially if it overheated. Another possibility would be to get a reservoir and the lines for whatever year they started running lines from the points where the bleeders are directly back to the reservoir. I don't know why they didn't think of that sooner.

There are combustion gas testers that will tell you if there is exhaust gas in the cooling system, but I've never seen one that works great.

I usually fill the reservoir to the VERY top and put a pressure tester on it. Pump it to 15 PSI and start the engine (but don't allow pressure to get more than 1-2 PSI over what the cap says on it). If the needle on the guage vibrates with the engine running, it is almost certainly a head gasket.