My "service engine" light has been on for a while now but with state inspection looming, I decided it's finally time to do something about it. I went to the local AutoZone & had them check the codes...the result was P0410. I searched this forum as well as a few others, broke out my tools & had a go at it today. Sure enough, the pump had sucked in the "sponge filter" & it not only jammed the impeller, but broke off several of the blades. I managed to clean all the loose pieces out & free up the blade, then tested it. It's noisy but it works, so I reinstalled it. It doesn't seem to run though so I'm guessing that there's a blown fuse. That leads to my question. Where is that fuse?

From what I've read, it's a 30A "maxi" fuse & it's located somewhere near the battery. There's a black box in front of the battery that's labelled "Fuse Relay Center". I opened it & checked ALL the maxi fuses & every one of them was good, so I'm guessing the one I'm looking for is someplace else.

Can anyone pinpoint the location for me?

Thanks!

Just wanted to post a follow up. According to my Haynes repair manual, there's a 30A "maxi" fuse AND a 15A "mini" fuse connected with the AIR system. I stopped by a local Chevy dealer this afternoon & talked to a mechanic...he confirmed the 30A/15A combo. He said they're located under the hood in the "Fuse Relay Center". I checked ALL the maxi's & all the 15A mini's, but they were all OK. So I decided to pull the 30A mini's & wouldn't you know, the fuse in slot #39 was blown. Then I looked at the diagram on the inside of the Fuse Relay cover & sure enough, next to slot #39 says AIR. Actually, I had seen that earlier but figured it was a fuse for AIR conditioning, not A.I.R....after all, everything I read told me I should be looking for a 15A mini fuse, not a 30A. :banghead:

Anyhow, I popped in a good fuse, fired up the van & immediately heard the AIR pump humming...woohoo! I got cleaned up, took the van for a ride & within about 20 miles, the Service Engine went out. :grinyes:

Just thought I'd do one last follow up. I got the van inspected last week & it passed with no problems. The AIR pump is awfully noisy though. It's probably way out of balance because of the lost blades, so I removed the fuse again. Eventually I'll replace the pump but for the time being, I just bought myself another 12 months...lol :lol: :lol: :lol:

on a '99 its in fuse box on the end of passenger side dash and is 25 amp fuse labled elc and you don't want to know the prices of parts for the air compressor or anything connected to it.

Could you please tell me where to locate the secondary air pump? I have the same problem but don;t know where to even look for the stupid thing. :banghead:

the air pump for the rear shocks is located drivers side between the rear tire and bumper can't miss it

I thought we were talking about the the emissions secondary air pump. My van doesn't have air shocks.

Could you please tell me where to locate the secondary air pump? I have the same problem but don;t know where to even look for the stupid thing. :banghead:

The 2ndary AIR pump is on the driver's side of the van, behind the bumper & is covered by the inner fender. To get at it, you'll have to jack up the van & remove the driver's side front tire. Then there's 6 or 8 screws that secure the inner fender in place that will have to be removed. The inner fender is made of plastic & if you look closely, you'll see that the plastic has a groove going across it...this groove acts like a hinge. Once you remove the screws, the plastic can be folded back & you'll see the pump tucked up behind the bumper. Two hoses connect to it...one is the fresh air intake, the other connects to the catalytic convertor. Just as a warning, the hose that connects to the convertor will probably have water in it, so be ready for it (you should drain it out anyway). Disconnect the two hoses & the electrical plug, then remove the bolts that hold the pump support bracket. You can't get the pump out without removing the bracket so just remove the entire assembly. If you wanna see if you can get it going again, don't try to separate the housing (4 torx bolts)...instead, remove the single bolt that's in the center & remove the plastic cover. You won't be able to see much inside, but there is a small "window" in which you *should* be able to see the impeller blade. I flushed the heck out of it with water & used a small screwdriver to rotate the blade...I had to rotate/flush, rotate/flush, etc until I got all the crap out. Once I got the blade to spin freely, I tested the pump with an old battery. It was noisy, but it worked. Like I said above, I threw all back together again, drove it until the "service engine" light went out, then got it inspected. Afterwards, I pulled the 30A fuse again so I wouldn't have to put up with the pump noise anymore. :naughty:

I hope that explanation helps.

Thanks for posting this and the email. Man I am glad I found this forum. I got my door locks working last night because of it, and hopefully get the AIR pump problem cured quickly. Then I have to tackle the PSD :runaround:.

Thanks for posting this and the email. Man I am glad I found this forum. I got my door locks working last night because of it, and hopefully get the AIR pump problem cured quickly. Then I have to tackle the PSD :runaround:.

Yeah, I found this forum while searching for problems about my 2000 Venture a couple of years ago. It seems that there are quite a few common problems with Ventures & I've encountered most of them :rolleyes: ...hard shifting, taillight problems, fuel gauge not working, wipers parking upright, flickering headlights, etc. Several weeks ago, my power doors locks started acting up. I can lock the doors using the switch but I cannot unlock them. I read that there's a problem with the wiring under the carpet on the passenger side. I had a quick look & didn't see anything obvious, so I closed it back up. Did you have the same problem? If so, how did you fix it?? Thanks.

Well another Venture problem cured for now. I pulled the pump yesterday and completely disassembled it. I too found a big wad of something on top of the impeller. After cleaning it off I then had to get the motor itself unstuck. It was full of water sand and other crap. After big load of carb cleaner and WD40 it runs again, I turned the light out with a scanner and replaced the fuse, so far so good. I am getting ready to leave on a short trip this afternoon we'll see if its cured completely.

Thanks for the help. I'm down to fixing the PSD to make the wife happy with her van again. :grinyes:

Glad to hear that you fixed the pump/motor. What is exactly wrong with your PSD? Mine is out as well, but the dealer diagnosed it as needing the rear module replaced at $280 for the part, $150 labor. I went ahead and bought a $49 module on line, but are having problems splicing in 1 of 6 wires to the mating connector (maybe that's why the $49 price) which turns out can be one of 16 different wire combinations.

Not sure what is wrong with the PSD. It will unlatch and you can here the motor try and then reverse but it will not open unless you do it by hand and it is pretty stiff to move. Haven't realll y gone through the diagnostics on it yet. Maybe I'll start a new thread.


We have had so many problems with this van, when I was splicing the wiring back together for the locks my lighter died that I was using for the heat shrink tubing. I went in the house from the shop and started asking for matches, my wife freaked she thought I had finally lost it and was going to burn it. :iceslolan

We have had so many problems with this van, when I was splicing the wiring back together for the locks my lighter died that I was using for the heat shrink tubing.

Glad to hear you got the AIR pump issue straightened out.

What can you tell me about the power door lock problem?

Not sure if I actually if I actually answered this for you. I sent an email. But I'll explain best I can here again. I had the exact problems with the locks, but the drivers quit completely.
My wife was having a fit because she couldn't unlock all of the doors
without shutting the van off.

Anyway peel back the carpet and untape the wiring harness back to the seat. I
promise you will see the problem then. They are factory splices (if you want
to call that pethetic mess a splice) the lock wires will be white and light
blue all of mine were broken. You will probably find them wrapped in what
looks like black duct tape. There will be 2 light blue wires coming from the
front and one continuing to the rear where they cross over (repeat for the
white) they will need to be put back together. I cut them off (make sure
they are long enough to reach afterwards before cutting) and re stripped
them then soldered them back togather and put shrink tubing over them and
taped them for an extra measure.

I also found 3 more splices that I went ahead and fixed while I was there. I
am assuming that one of them was the fuel gauge, I read somewhere that it is
effected by this mess as well. Ours seemed to settle down after I did this
but I am not 100% sure becuse it only freaked out when it the level was
pretty low. Forgive me if the I am off on these colors. You should find a
black w white stripe that has a splice, a small pale yellow with a splice,
and 3 very large yellow wires that come together near the kick panel. I'd
fix them all depending on what they looked like.

the fuel gauge wire also comes thru the pass-thru connector in the floor on drivers side right below where your feet would be sitting in the seat behind the drivers seat. there are two pass-thru boxes under there . the little weather seals that g.m. used will let water in the connector. as i remember the traction control , fuelpump, fuel gauge, speed sensors for rear wheels.